Dowling's at the Carlyle: This revived old-school haunt has Big Dining Energy

Asia's Tech News Daily

 									carlyle hotel								,  									new york city								,  									restaurant review								,  									restaurants								,  									upper east side

The food at the new Dowling’s at the Carlyle Hotel is traditional, and mostly tasty, says The Post’s critic Steve Cuozzo. Stephen Yang

Flames, carving and saucing — right before your eyes!

Tableside service, a resilient relic of old-school fine dining, is making a return at the Carlyle hotel’s “new” dining room that’s rebranded as Dowling’s. Hey, is New York back or what?

The best news isn’t the fire on the floor, though. It’s that Dowling’s came through a much-touted, prolonged redesign to emerge as a better incarnation of the old, plush but fussy Carlyle dining room. The jewel-box venue even let go of its tablecloths — the shock! But it’s held onto its luxury and romance.

Robert Whittle Dowling owned the hotel in the 1940s when he “put it on the map as a fashionable destination” for celebs, pols and royalty, the publicity material says. Those bygone days will likely not return.

But to the relief of those who feared the redesign would yield a loud, hard-edged shell of the original, it left the square main dining room and cozy annex as dignified and proper as they were before, just brighter and buzzier. A “jackets recommended” policy puts everyone on their best behavior, including a pair of poodles that were so still beneath a table I didn’t know they were there.

 									carlyle hotel								,  									new york city								,  									restaurant review								,  									restaurants								,  									upper east side

The tuna tartare at Dowling’s.

Stephen Yang

Chief designer William Paley transformed the former gloomy brown monotone decor into a pulsating palette of black, white and brown. Densely packed wall art, pretty and whimsical by turns, includes five lost paintings by Ludwig Bemelmans, for whom the adjoining Bemelmans Bar is named.

 									carlyle hotel								,  									new york city								,  									restaurant review								,  									restaurants								,  									upper east side

Dowling’s new black and white decor is a palette for colorful wall art, including lost paintings by Ludwig Bemelmans.

Stephen Yang

Paley also wisely kept the main room’s beloved centerpiece, a quartet of banquettes arranged like a pinwheel with new leather upholstery.

Dowling’s is much busier than its predecessor. The rooms hum to a sexy murmur above a soft jazz soundtrack and again live up to their romantic “I’ll Take Manhattan” ideal that’s been missing from the spot for decades.

New Yorkers have a powerful bond with the Carlyle. I’ve loved it since first hearing reigning performer Bobby Short there in the 1970s. The woman lunching alone near me had a deep connection too: After observing that my arugula-crowned chicken paillard looked “beautiful,” she revealed to the waiters, “I used to live here. I came back for this.”

I’ll go back too. Executive chef Sylvain Delpique last worked at the now-dead “21” Club. The best dishes on his French and American menu include rich, spicy lobster bisque; a plump pumpkin-ricotta raviolo; and mouthwatering, tableside-flamed steak Diane. Lunchtime chicken paillard, pounded near paper-thin and topped with fontina cheese, was indeed as tasty as it looked to my neighbor.

 									carlyle hotel								,  									new york city								,  									restaurant review								,  									restaurants								,  									upper east side

Sylvain Delpique heads up the kitchen at Dowling’s.

Stephen Yang

But spiced Colorado lamb shank was twice dry for my taste, a cut of Faroe Islands salmon miserly and mediocre, and salt-baked Branzino chewy and over-soaked in lemon butter after floor-flaming. Dinner appetizer prices from $22 to $30 and entrees from the high $30s to $80 deserve more consistency.

And the floor spectacle needs work. The anachronistic shtick works only when there’s room enough to wheel trolleys through without having to uproot seated customers and alarming them with smoke and fire inches from their noses.

 									carlyle hotel								,  									new york city								,  									restaurant review								,  									restaurants								,  									upper east side

A perfectly plated octopus carpaccio.

Stephen Yang

We watched, frustrated, as the staff struggled to squeeze the fat trolley between tables. It took so long to reach us that my wife all but finished her salmon by the time they were ready to flambé two luscious filets of steak Diane and apply Cognac demi-glace. Another time, they flamed a dessert sundae at one table but not at mine, although I’m not sure why a sundae should be set on fire at all.

Dowling’s has other vexations, like balky Wi-Fi and checks with separate tip lines for servers and captains — a needless, ancient ploy to make you overspend.

But Rosewood Hotels was smart to revive a classic that might not have otherwise survived the pandemic at all. Dowling’s, flubs and all, will make you love New York all over again.

35 E. 76th St.; 212-570-7192, RosewoodHotels.com

Internet Explorer Channel Network
Asia's Tech News Daily
News Related

OTHER NEWS

Katrina Kaif and family get ready to leave for Rajasthan ahead of wedding with Vicky Kaushal. Watch video

Katrina Kaif and Vicky Kaushal’s wedding preps have begun. The biggest Bollywood wedding is just a few days away. Katrina Kaif will soon be tying the knot with Vicky Kaushal ... Read more »

[VIDEO]Wanita OOTD di Telaga Tujuh Langkawi tetiba muncul wajah misteri buat ramai seram

KISAH seram diusik entiti sejak kebelakangan ini nampaknya banyak dikongsikan dalam media sosial terutamanya menerusi aplikasi TikTok. Mana tidaknya, banyak video pendek yang dikongsikan pengguna TikTok membuatkan ramai tergamam dan ... Read more »

Samar's Samela Aubrey Godin wins Miss Culture International in South Africa

© Provided by Good News Pilipinas Special Education (SPED) teacher Samela Aubrey Godin of Samar bagged the Philippines’ first Miss Culture International in South Africa. Photos from @samelaaubrey and @miss_culture_internationa ... Read more »

From cinema ban to film festival: Saudi rolls out red carpet

© Fayez Nureldine Saudi Arabia only allowed cinemas to reopen in 2018 after a decades-long ban Less than four years after lifting a ban on cinemas, Saudi Arabia is to ... Read more »

LOOK: Beatrice Luigi Gomez stuns in bold desert attire during ATV tour in Eilat for 70th Miss Universe

Philippine delegate Beatrice Luigi Gomez was a vision of perfection as she, along with other contestants of the 70th Miss Universe pageant, went on an adventure in the desert while ... Read more »

Australia Covid live news update: Qld border to reopen 13 December, Palaszczuk says; SA premier advised to close border with NSW over Omicron

LIVE – Updated at 04:26 Follow all the day’s news.   04:26 BREAKING: Queensland will reopen at 1am on 13 December as we move towards the 80% vaccination milestone earlier ... Read more »

China Evergrande braces for payment deadline after doubting availability of funds

© Reuters/TYRONE SIU FILE PHOTO: The China Evergrande Centre building sign is seen in Hong Kong By Clare Jim HONG KONG (Reuters) – Shares of China Evergrande Group tumbled 12% ... Read more »

Ralf Rangnick names two players perfect for Manchester United's 4-2-2-2 formation

Ralf Rangnick believes Scott McTominay and Fred are ‘perfect’ for the 4-2-2-2 formation Manchester United adopted in their 1-0 win over Crystal Palace. McTominay and Fred were regulars under Ole ... Read more »

Nobody said making a nuclear deal with Iran would be easy

Iranian Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei in Tehran in April. (Associated Press) Diplomats from Iran, the United States and five other powers gathered in Vienna last week to try to ... Read more »

Sistem amaran awal tanah runtuh akan ditambah

© Provided by Sinar Harian KOTA BHARU – Kementerian Tenaga dan Sumber Asli akan menambah bilangan sistem amaran awal tanah runtuh di kawasan berisiko tinggi berlakunya kejadian tanah runtuh. Menterinya, ... Read more »

Donny Just Defended Belle From Bashers In The *Sweetest* Way Possible

© Provided by Cosmopolitan Philippines This generation’s newest hit love team, Donny Pangilinan and Belle Mariano, have amassed *thousands* of fans, but as with every successful pairing, they have also had ... Read more »

Factories making fake Dettol raided as UAE steps efforts to end counterfeit goods trade

© Andrew Henderson / The National Counterfeit goods seized in Dubai are recycled by Dubai Customs. Andrew Henderson / The National Criminal gangs in the UAE have exploited the Covid-19 ... Read more »

UAE and France in lunar spacecraft joint venture

The UAE and France have signed a letter of intent to develop lunar spacecrafts together. It was among a number of important agreements and deals signed during French President Emmanuel ... Read more »

Iran Says Nuclear Work Won't Stop Until Sanctions Issue Resolved

(Bloomberg) — Most Read from Bloomberg Iran said world powers can’t expect it to stop expanding its nuclear work until they reach an agreement with Tehran on how U.S. sanctions ... Read more »

Ragnick kagum dengan persembahan United

© Provided by Sinar Harian PENGURUS sementara Manchester United yang baharu, Ralf Rangnick kagum dengan cara pasukannya menyesuaikan diri dengan taktikal yang baharu selepas mencatatkan kemenangan 1-0 ke atas Crystal ... Read more »

Hanya sebilangan kecil guna VTL Malaysia-Singapura

© Provided by Free Malaysia Today VTL memperuntukan kuota 2,880 sehari, dengan 1,440 individu sudah menerima vaksin sepenuhnya dibenarkan bergerak ke setiap arah. PETALING JAYA: Hanya sebilangan kecil pengembara menggunakan ... Read more »

LOOK: Japan Home Centre's New Store in the South Has Its Own Hello Kitty Corner

© Provided by Spot.ph © Provided by Spot.ph PHOTO Facebook/JapanHomeCentrePhilippines (SPOT.ph) In case you missed it, south folks: Budget-friendly lifestyle store Japan Home Centre finally opened the doors to their latest branch ... Read more »

PNP to work with Comelec in removing campaign materials

Philippine National Police building The Philippine National Police (PNP) on Monday said it will coordinate with the Commission on Elections (Comelec) to remove campaign materials upon the request of public ... Read more »

China says market views of monetary policy moves too 'simplistic'

BEIJING (Reuters) – A Chinese newspaper run by the State Council, or cabinet, warned the market against “simplistic” interpretations of monetary policy moves as easing expectations gathered steam, suggesting China ... Read more »

U.S. expected to announce diplomatic boycott of the Winter Olympics in Beijing

The Biden administration is expected to announce a diplomatic boycott of the 2022 Winter Olympics in Beijing this week, a senior administration official said late Sunday. © Provided by NBC ... Read more »

Delhi's air quality still in 'very poor' category, AQI stands at 311

© Provided by Zee News New Delhi: The air quality in the national capital continued to remain in the `very poor` category on Monday (December 6, 2021) morning with an ... Read more »

‘Beyond heartbreaking': 500 Indigenous deaths in custody since 1991 royal commission

Photograph: David Gray/Getty Images Aboriginal justice expert says governments continue to ‘stall on urgent action’ to prevent deaths Get our free news app; get our morning email briefing Five hundred ... Read more »

Steven Gerrard tells Aston Villa 'we can still be better' after third win in four

© Shaun Botterill BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND – DECEMBER 05: Ashley Young of Aston Villa and Steven Gerrard, Manager of Aston Villa interact following the Premier League match between Aston Villa and ... Read more »

RRB NTPC CBT-2 on February 14-18, know more

The second computer-based test (CBT) of the RRB NTPC recruitment is scheduled on February 14-18, the railway recruitment boards (RRBs) said on Sunday. The exam schedule is subject to the ... Read more »

Mamata to send team to Nagaland to meet victims of civilian killings

© Provided by Hindustan Times Banerjee had also sent her emissaries to meet the farmers at Singhu border in Delhi when they were protesting against the three contentious farm bills. ... Read more »

Who runs Bajrang Dal? Here are the men who power ‘moral policing & vigilante' Hindutva group

© Provided by The Print New Delhi: Last week, Munawar Faruqui’s show in Bengaluru was cancelled with police citing law and order as the reason, prompting the stand-up comic to ... Read more »

New updates from HT: TMC delegation to visit Nagaland after civilian killings, and all the latest news

© Provided by Hindustan Times Protests against the civilian killings broke out in Nagaland’s Mon district on Sunday. (ANI) Here are today’s top news, analysis and opinion. Know all about ... Read more »

Oklahoma hires former assistant Brent Venables as new head coach

Brent Venables is the new head coach at Oklahoma. AP Oklahoma hired Clemson defensive coordinator Brent Venables as its head coach to replace Lincoln Riley on Sunday night, bringing back ... Read more »

NEET-PG 2021 counselling delay: Resident doctors of three Delhi hospitals to boycott emergency services from today

© Provided by Zee News New Delhi: The resident doctors of the Centre-run RML, Safdarjung and Lady Hardinge hospitals will boycott all routine and emergency services from Monday (December 6, ... Read more »

Harrison Gilbertson, Katelyn Nacon And David Kallaway Join ‘Where All Light Tends To Go'

© Mike Martinez; Gray Hammer; Greg Perrow EXCLUSIVE: Harrison Gilbertson, Katelyn Nacon and David Kallaway have joined the cast of Where All Light Tends to Go. Billy Bob Thornton, Robin Wright, Hopper ... Read more »

Rangers' Artemi Panarin could tally 500th point against first NHL team

There was a point in time when Artemi Panarin got pregame jitters before facing the Blackhawks, the team that gave him his NHL chance and signed him as an undrafted ... Read more »

Lewis Hamilton wins chaotic Saudi GP to go level with Max Verstappen, title to be decided in Abu Dhabi

Lewis Hamilton Lewis Hamilton won a twice-halted Saudi Arabian Grand Prix for Mercedes on Sunday to go level on points with Red Bull rival Max Verstappen and set up a ... Read more »

UPSC Recruitment job alert 2021: Several vacancies released at upsc.gov.in, details here

© Provided by Zee News UPSC Recruitment 2021: As part of its 2021 recruitment drive, the Union Public Service Commission (UPSC) has invited applications for several vacancies it has announced on ... Read more »

YouTuber floats on ‘magic carpet' in viral video, leaves netizens speechless- WATCH

© Provided by DNA Illusionists and magicians often create some mirages that leave the general public confused, and often speechless. Another such illusion created by a YouTuber recently left the ... Read more »

Hero World Challenge: Majestic Morikawa marches on

© Provided by The Times of India Eyes HWC title, World No. 1 crown NASSAU, BAHAMAS: Trailing by one at the start of the third, Collin Morikawa stepped on accelerator ... Read more »

That feast-ive feeling

© Provided by Mid-Day In high spirits From green lantern lager to the dark rum-based under the mistletoe, and brandy, chocolate and cherry-infused Christmas eve, BrewDog India in Lower Parel ... Read more »

5 Things to Keep in Mind if You Plan to Marry Soon

© Provided by News18 5 Things to Keep in Mind if You Plan to Marry Soon Getting married is one of the important phases of life. A lot of things ... Read more »

Bangladesh vs Pakistan 2021 Live Cricket Score 2nd Test, Day 3, Shere Bangla National Stadium, Dhaka

© Provided by News18 Bangladesh vs Pakistan 2021 Live Cricket Score 2nd Test, Day 3, Shere Bangla National Stadium, Dhaka Persistent rain and a wet outfield ensured only 6.2 overs ... Read more »

Nepo suffers meltdown, Carlsen up 2-0

© Provided by The Times of India Magnus Carlsen has taken a potentially decisive lead in the World Chess championship match against Challenger Ian Nepomniachtchi in Dubai on Sunday. The ... Read more »

Blacklist, Onic PH to open title bids in M3 World Championships

Photo: Blacklist International/Facebook SINGAPORE—Two Philippine bets will kick off their respective campaigns in the most prestigious Mobile Legends: Bang Bang tournament, the M3 World Championships here. Highly-anticipated Blacklist International will ... Read more »
On free-english-test.com you will find lots of free English exam practice materials to help you improve your English skills: grammar, listening, reading, writing, ielts, toeic