The Safest and Most Effective Ways to Get Rid of Dark Spots

All it takes is the right ingredients.

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We have 99 skin problems, and dark spots are just one of them. As cliché as it sounds, acne scars can become persistent dark spots that are hard to eliminate.  “Dark spots fall under the larger umbrella of hyperpigmentation, which is a darkening of the skin,” says Corey L. Hartman, board-certified dermatologist. “Dark spots are often referred to as ‘sun spots’ or ‘age spots.’”

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While there are many treatments and facials that can reduce the appearance of dark spots, here’s everything to know about dark spots.

What Are Dark Spots?

“Dark spots occur due to an overproduction of melanin or abnormal dispersion in the layers of the skin” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Rawn Bosley, MD. “Melanin is pigment in the skin that can be disrupted by stimuli such as inflammation or UV exposure.”

There are different types of dark spots. One type is "post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, meaning there was some sort of injury or inflammation on the skin and when it healed, it left pigmentation in its place,” says board-certified dermatologist Nkem Ugonabo M.D.

“Another type of hyperpigmentation is melasma which typically presents small brown patches on the face.” Dr. Ugonabo notes that this form of dark spot can be found on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, chin, and other parts of the face. Additionally, psoriasis and eczema can lead to dark spots and patches.

Why Dark Spots Are Prevalent in Skin of Color

“Skin of color is rich in melanin and it is more evenly distributed throughout the skin. Melanin is extremely sensitive to inflammation,” says Dr. Hartman. “When inflammation is triggered due to UV exposure, acne, or a wound, the anti-inflammatory response triggers an increased production of melanin, which leads to hyperpigmentation.”

Melanin is a natural pigment found in all skin types. The amount of melanin one has is what determines the skin tone. Dr. Bosley notes that “skin types with higher concentrations of melanin have more abundant reactions to factors that cause dark spots such as UV exposure, acne, or even inflammation.”

How to Treat Dark Spots

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If you’re seeking professional treatments to treat dark spots, both Dr. Hartman and Dr. Ugonabo recommends chemical peels and lasers for managing uneven skin tone. “Chemical peels work by providing controlled exfoliation of the top layer of the skin,” says Dr. Ugonabo. “Laser treatments work by using light (heat) energy to target pigment in the skin.”

However, Dr. Hartman notes that intensive laser or chemical peels can worsen dark spots. “All lasers, devices, and peels are not safe for darker skin tones," he says. "Knowledge of the physiology of the skin and the nuances of different ethnicities is paramount to safe and effective treatment.”

You can also treat your dark spots right from your bathroom counter, as long as you're using the right beauty products. While there are many products that can help reduce the appearance of dark spots, Dr. Hartman again advises skin-of-color patients to be especially careful with at-home treatments like peels or acids as they can cause inflammation that worsens hyperpigmentation. Ahead, learn about the best ingredients to treat dark spots.

Sunscreen

Dr. Bosley notes that sunscreens are one of the most effective methods to address dark spots and “should be used daily for the prevention of UV damage and inflammation that can worsen hyperpigmentation.” And if you already have dark spots, wearing SPF can ensure the sun won't darken them even more.

Retinol

Dr. Hartman notes that retinol “helps regulate cellular turnover and promotes effective exfoliation, which helps even discoloration and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation.”

Dr. Bosley adds. that retinoids improve hyperpigmentation by speeding up the skin's natural renewal process. “By speeding up this process, dark spots can be replaced with new, evenly pigmented skin cells,” says Dr. Bosley. “Additionally, retinoids can reduce the activity of the cells that produce melanin called melanocytes.” Over time, combining retinol with your skin care products can help reduce excess melanin production.

Vitamin C

According to Dr. Hartman, vitamin C is another skin-care ingredient that will “help protect against free radical damage, which is one of the causes of uneven skin tone.” Vitamin C can boost the production of collagen and brighten your skin. Plus, When you apply vitamin C every morning (along with your sunscreen!) it protects your skin from air pollution, another hyperpigmentation assailant.

Dr. Ugonabo adds that when you use a product with both vitamin C and glycolic acid together, it helps with pigmentation and “is gentle enough for daily use.”

Malassezin

Dr. Bosely notes that malassezin is an antioxidant that visibly fades dark spots and even skin tone. It is also ten times more powerful than vitamin C. This antioxidant reduces dark spots, smooths the texture of your skin, and minimizes fine lines and wrinkles without any irritation.

Kojic Acid

Dr. Hartman recommends using Kojic acid to treat dark spots as “it helps reduce the production of melanin in the skin and hyperpigmentation.”

Hydroquinone

Dr. Ugonabo notes that hydroquinone is “a very potent skin lightener” that can be used for short periods of time under medical professional supervision. Hydroquinone is a powerhouse agent that comes with side effects if it’s used incorrectly. For example, if it makes contact with the skin around a dark spot, it can lead to a lighter ring of hypopigmentation. Dr. Ugonabo recommends seeing a board-certified dermatologist if your dark spots are not improving and you believe its time for something stronger.

Tranexamic Acid

Both Dr. Hartman and Dr. Bosley recommends tranexamic acid for minimizing hyperpigmentation and melasma. This amino acid affects the skin’s melanin production, treating melasma and reducing dark spots.

Glycolic Acid

Dr. Bosely recommends adding glycolic acid to your skin-care routine. This acid can “decrease inflammation and increase the rate of skin renewal thereby allowing the body to heal the dark spots.”

Read the original article on InStyle.