Issey Miyake’s wind-inspired show takes flight at Paris Fashion Week

Issey Miyake’s wind-inspired show takes flight at Paris Fashion Week

Diaphanous origami-like sculptures that floated like spring seeds caught in the wind captured the essence of the subtle, rich, and exquisite display from Issey Miyake at Paris Fashion Week — one of the strongest in seasons

ByTHOMAS ADAMSON AP fashion writer

June 20, 2024, 6:18 AM

PARIS -- Diaphanous origami-like sculptures that floated like spring seeds caught in the wind captured the essence of the subtle, rich, and exquisite display from Issey Miyake at Paris Fashion Week — one of the strongest in seasons.

The breathtaking menswear displays in the show “Up, Up, and Away” featured couture-like poetry: seemingly weightless textiles that billowed like parachutes or kites. The garments seemed ready for flight.

In Mobilier National’s cobbled courtyard, the Homme Plissé show Thursday morning took inspiration from all things windy, transforming the elements into wearable art.

The collection was a testament to designer Satoshi Kondo’s deft innovations with fabric techniques.

A vivid blue coat cut a striking figure, with stiff, angular sleeves that contrasted beautifully with the softness of its pleats. This was not just a coat, but a sculptural piece that transformed with the air, reminiscent of Kondo’s signature romantic approach to silhouettes.

Kondo brought garments to life, like kites in the sky with voluminous silhouettes created by fastening and unfastening buttons. One standout piece, a pale blue hooded look, billowed like a parachute when the model walked across the cobbled courtyard, its back panels filling with air dramatically.

A beige T-shirt and waistcoat ensemble looked red carpet-ready with its chicly pleated, arrow-thin assorted tie.

Kondo's was a poetic masterclass in fusing complexity with simplicity, and when the collection entered to rousing applause, the Paris sun finally peeked out from between the clouds.