I went to a little-known Paris street party that's even bigger than Notting Hill Carnival
Fête de la Musique was unlike anything I had ever experienced (Picture: Gergana Krasteva)
‘No sleep, bus, club, another club, another club.’
Anyone who has ever been on TikTok will know they’re the words of Lady Gaga, in an audio clip that has been stitched, shared and liked across the platform.
And, after a weekend in Paris for Fête de la Musique (which translates to World Music Day), I feel like I can now relate to the songstress.
I had no idea what to expect from the festival as I hoped on the 7am Eurostar to Gare du Nord from St Pancras International last week.
Friends who have been to Fête de la Musique compared it to Notting Hill Carnival in London – both music based events that take over the city streets.
However, this French party is much bigger, dominating the entire city – and in fact, much of the country.
I’ve been to Paris multiple times in the past, but never for the festival, so I went to check it out.
What is Fête de la Musique?
The celebration is held every year on summer solstice, June 21, and takes place all over France.
While Notting Hill Carnival is rooted in Caribbean traditions, celebrating heritage and contributions of the Afro-Caribbean community, Fête de la Musique focuses on the music culture in France.
Set up by the then minister of culture, it was first celebrated in Paris in 1982 with the goal of bringing people together through music.
Ever since, the festival has become an international phenomenon, marked on the same day in more than 700 cities in 120 countries.
What the festival looks like In Paris
As I come to witness, tens of thousands of people pour onto the streets of Paris – many in club wear, others still in suits after coming straight from work.
Celebrations in Paris start from early on, with a drink on the Seine banks (Picture: Gergana Krasteva)
Celebrations in some areas of the city begin as early as 10am, continuing until the sun rises almost 24 hours later.
Famous landmarks, like Basilique du Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre, boulevards, parks and public spaces are transformed into open-air stages for musicians – and there is something for everyone.
From jazz gigs by the Seine to classical performances in historic cathedrals, there is an experience for both locals and tourists, creating an atmosphere of unity and joy.
All concerts are free to the public, though sometimes ticketed, and all performers donate their time free of charge.
While there are many random buskers to entertain the crowds, household names like Yamê, Matt Pokora and Fally Ipupa took over the stages.
International DJ Stephy Diab also made an appearance right outside a well-known Lebanese restaurant.
Paolina Bar kept us refreshed with cocktails (Picture: Gergana Krasteva)
Despite how popular Fête de la Musique is among Parisians though, it’s notparticularly publicised to tourists, making it harder to track down the best parties – so I draft in some experts.
An insider’s perspective
I have recruited my friends Ahmed and Thea, my favourite Parisian couple, to be my tour guides for Fête de la Musique. I have no idea what to expect, so I’m entirely at their mercy.
While I wait for them to finish work, I join the Grailed x Boiler Room pop-up at 23 rue du Sentier near Strasbourg Saint-Denis metro station.
The London-based club promoter curates DJ sets for the celebration every year, bringing in a trendy, young crowd.
But the whole point of the day is to party outside – if the weather allows it. Ahmed and Thea finally pick me up and we catch up over a few cocktails at Paolina Bar, a few streets over from the Boiler Room pop-up.
Strolling past streets lined with dancing crowds, we then set off to Le Syndicat, a 15-minute walk from Paolina Bar. The crowds start to grow bigger and louder as we approach.
The Grailed x Boiler Room pop-up started at 4pm (Picture: Gergana Krasteva)
Le Syndicat is a nondescript Parisian speakeasy, which is a regular on The World’s 50 Best Bars list.
DJs have set up their decks and speakers outside, filling the air with beats – a mix of electronic, hip-hop and anything in between.
Bartenders – normally serving a wicked mix of cocktails in specialised glasses – are now pouring alcohol without measuring, straight into takeaway cups.
I am just one espresso martini down, but there is no time to dawdle. Next on the list is Sürpriz Kebab – yes, a kebab shop – just a few minutes away.
There is another DJ set just outside this legendary institution, apparently known for throwing one of the best parties during Fête de la Musique.
Cocktails are just a few euros, sold next to the DJ booth on the street. Instead of cheap, low-quality drinks, the bartender takes his time and makes me a strong Moscow Mule that keeps me going for awhile.
The crowd enjoying a DJ set outside a kebab shop (Picture: Gergana Krasteva)
People are dancing on the street. Some are tucking into greasy chips and meat. Everyone is super friendly.
It is as spontaneous as I had imagined. I swiftly lose track of time and by sunset, we are on our way to Canal Saint-Martin. It is a 20-minute walk from Sürpriz, but the crowds make the journey much longer.
We arrive at the banks of the Seine, which are jampacked full of people. Music is being blasted from all directions, and I can see a girl dancing on the roof of a car parked nearby.
It is chaotic in the best way. Every bar and restaurant has its own gig; there is a DJ playing house, but I can also hear a crowd chanting Gloria Gaynor’s I will survive – but the football version.
Wine and beer are free-flowing. There are little hot dog stands and pop-up bars dotted down the banks, and my oh my, the queues are long.
I can overhear people who did not know each other until a few minutes ago now chatting about the Paris Olympic Games, and then the casual culture of cheating in France.
Cocktails were prepared without the help of measures (Picture: Gergana Krasteva)
We stay at Canal Saint-Martin for the rest of the night. Some people leave, others join, but it is just an opportunity to make more connections.
I learn that you have to make the very best of it as Fête de la Musique lasts just one night.
I dance until my feet hurt. That’s a pair of Mary Janes gone, but it is all worth it. I get home at 3.30am. I fear my poor Uber driver had to put up with my snoring in the back seat of the car. C’est la vie.
More music at Moulin Rouge
No trip to Paris – no matter how short it is – is complete until one dips their toes into the bygone era of the city. This time it was Moulin Rouge.
Do not be confused, the show in on Boulevard de Clichy, Pigalle, is very different to Baz Luhrmann’s production.
It is the city’s most famous cabaret and by just entering the landmark building, I can understand why. There is another world of opulence and grandeur inside. It is all adorned with plush red velvet, glittering chandeliers, and intricate gold accents.
Inside the Moulin Rouge, the most famous cabaret club in Paris
Champagne is served within seconds of me sitting down.
Though the nature of the performances are a little too old-school for me, there is certainly an appetite for them in the room. The dancers are outstanding and the choreography intricate. I can’t take my eyes off of the bedazzled costumes.
The acrobatic acts add a dynamic layer to the spectacle, and they are my favourite part of the show.
Tickets for the Moulin Rouge start from €88 per person.
Carbs galore at Boulangerie Utopie
I cannot leave Paris without a visit to Boulangerie Utopie, which makes the official best baguettefor 2024.
Named the top bakery in France in 2016 by M6 TV channel, it then emerged as a champion at Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville De Paris.
The competition honours the mastery behind the quintessential French baguette.
One lesson to take into 2025 is wear comfortable shoes at the festival (Picture: Gergana Krasteva)
Xavier Netry, the talented baker behind Utopie, was crowned champion in April and was awarded 4,000 euros and the opportunity to supply baguettes president Emmanuel Macron for an entire year.
There are a few issues at play here: I am hungover, it is raining, the queue is long. But I am dedicated.
When I finally get inside, I order three (one simply has to bring the best baguette to London) and tuck in.
It is soft and light, almost sourdough like, with a crunchy coating. While I wish I have some butter and salt flakes to spread on top, I am the happiest girl alive.
It is indeed an outstanding baguette.
Finding accommodation in Paris
Baguettes from Boulangerie Utopie, aka the Best Baguette in Paris for 2024 (Picture: Gergana Krasteva)
There have never been more options of where to stay in the city, considering that the Olympics are just a few weeks away.
Every Tom, Dick and Harry seems to be renting their home, room or even a couch amid the flow of tourists taking over the capital.
Hotels can be expensive. And I much prefer to feel at home whenever I travel to a destination I have been to in the past, and splurge for an apartment with a living room and a kitchen.
I ended up choosing a charming little property on the sixth floor of a residential building situated a few minutes away from the Moulin Rouge and a 15-minute walk to the Montmartre Hill. An absolute gem.
It is one of Airbnb’s Guest Favourite listings, a highlight badge that ensures the top quality of a property.
My host Selma speaks Arabic, English, French and Spanish, and is super quick with replying to any of my queries. She also allows me to check in three hours earlier, a mark of an excellent host.
Her home has a 4.8 rating – and may I just say this one thing – it has one of the most comfortable beds I have slept in in a long time. A gold star for Selma.
Where to stay
Gergana was a guest of Airbnb in Paris. She stayed for two nights at one of the Guest Favourite Listings, which cost €477.
Eurostar tickets from London to Paris start from £39.
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