The Laws of Men’s Socks: An Important Guide

A friend told me she’d declined a dating setup because she’d seen her potential beau wearing white, knee-length socks on a run. “They looked like elderly bed socks, or like he was recovering from surgery,” she said. “It seriously gave me the ick.”

Her disdain got me thinking about men’s socks more broadly. Though easily overlooked, they can make an outfit—or be a major turnoff. Here, a set of sock bylaws drafted with the help of stylish, and opinionated, folks.

Ankle socks shall not be worn. Socks that end at the ankle bone—or just below—have ignited debate between millennials (who’ve worn them for years) and Gen Zers (who despise them). They “look a bit dated,” said Carla de Maria, 35, a UX designer in London, who prefers crew socks on guys. Rory Millar, 30, a marketing executive in London, finds ankle socks ruin the look of dressier shoes as they’re so jarringly casual, while Louis Kassam, 36, a Brooklyn photographer, said it’s “unforgivable” to wear them with tailored pants—bare ankles in a boardroom is a no.

Novelty socks shall be shunned. These are “like playing with fire,” said Alex Miller, 30, a law student in Milwaukee, Wis. He noted, with supreme understatement, that novelty socks are “more often bad than good.” Millar said styles covered in oh-so-fun things like flamingos are just cringe. But there are loopholes. George Vlagos, owner of Independence, a Chicago menswear store, likes the tone-on-tone prints by Anonymous Ism. And Jacob Hurwitz, founder of menswear brand American Trench, touted artisanal tie-dye as acceptable for grown-ups.

Socks are obliged to match. Wearing mismatched socks is like sitting two single friends with nothing in common beside each other at a wedding, just because both are alone. It’s lazy.

‘No-show’ socks shall be exterminated. These super-low socklets, made of flimsy cotton with an elasticated top and a ballet-slipper shape, are often worn with loafers. But they can inflict torture in two ways: 1) By peeking above the lip of the shoe, which looks awkward and defeats their purpose; 2) By slipping, infuriatingly, underfoot. Also, I challenge you to find a less-sexy look than a man wearing no-show socks at a dinner party in a shoes-off house. Though such socks can help prevent sweaty feet, Vlagos said that feet shouldn’t smell in genuine leather shoes—so go sockless.

White crew socks need not be exterminated. Sporty, mid-length crew styles in chunky cotton are passable and work best with sneakers, Birkenstocks and other casual shoes, said Marcel Peña, a stylist in Queens, N.Y.

Neutral shades shall be sought out. Black, gray, cream, dark brown, khaki and navy, especially in ribbed styles, work in most settings. With formal shoes, such shades are preferable to white socks, which can look “a bit Michael Jackson,” said Millar. (Try telling that to actor Paul Mescal, who turned heads at Milan fashion week recently in tiny shorts, bright white socks and black loafers.)

Retro stripe socks shall be embraced. At least in 2024. A “classic Americana style,” as Hurwitz put it, these feel both old-school and current. Usually cream with bold stripes at the top, these socks work for all ages, said Hurwitz, whose brand makes crew versions. He and Miller like them with loafers, boat shoes and sneakers. London Sock Company makes a dressier navy take with white stripes.

Red and royal-blue socks shall be seized upon to ‘add a little spice’ to outfits. Peña likes to enforce this one.

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