What is natto? Just like durian, stinky tofu, the sticky soybean dish is loved or hated

• Most recently seen in a scene on FX show Shogun, natto - a Japanese dish of stinky fermented soybeans - is a divisive one for many people

While watching the hit FX streaming series Shogun, which takes place in 16th century feudal Japan, I was pleasantly surprised to see one of my favourite ingredients appear in a quiet dinner scene that takes place in between the inter-clan warfare.

British maritime pilot John Blackthorne, who is in cahoots with the warlord Yoshii Toranaga, is dining with Mariko, their interpreter, when he notices that she is eating something that has not been served to him.

"What have you got there," he asks as Mariko expertly whisks something in her bowl with chopsticks. "It is maybe not for you," she answers, tersely.

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"How do you mean? Let me try some!" he says, a little insulted.

A natto course at Natto Sosaku Cuisine Natsumame, a natto-focused restaurant in Kyoto, Japan, by Naoko Natsumi. Photo: Instagram/@natsumame_

"The anjin [pilot] would like to try natto," Mariko says quietly in Japanese to Fuji, her niece-by-marriage, who is dining with them. "He seems quite determined." Fuji fetches a bowl for Blackthorne.

"I remind you that you are under no obligation to try this dish," Mariko tells Blackthorne in a measured voice. It is clear that she already knows how the foreigner will react to this esoteric food of theirs.

Natto is a cat the writer named after the sticky fermented soybeans because of the pattern on her belly. Photo: Charmaine Mok

The anjin gamely shovels a portion of natto into his mouth as Fuji suppresses a giggle. Unsurprisingly, his face quickly floods with confusion.

"Mmm. A bit like cheese," he grimaces. "Very stinky ... possibly spoiled cheese."

Blackthorne's reaction would not be uncommon today. Natto, a fermented soybean product defined by its funky aroma - which some have indeed compared to blue cheese - and slimy texture, is part of a category of foods including durian, stinky tofu or even Marmite that seem to divide people into either lovers or haters.

I can see why it can be a challenging ingredient, but I am firmly in the former camp. In fact, I even named one of my kittens Natto after the speckled brown pattern on her belly reminded me of tiny soybeans (true to her name, she is also extremely slippery and eludes capture when you try to pick her up).

Natto is a quintessential breakfast food in Japan, where many appreciate its neba-neba (slippery) texture with a bowl of simple steamed rice - a dish known as natto-han (a combination of natto and gohan, or rice).

Natto stirred into pasta in a recipe from Naoko Natsumi. Photo: Instagram/@natsumame_

According to the Soyinfo Centre, the "world's most complete collection of soy information", natto is said to have originated sometime in the 11th century, in northeast Japan.

One popular legend has it that during the Heian period, the military commander Minamoto Yoshiie (1041-1108) forgot about the sack of cooked soybeans he was carrying on the back of his horse.

Upon discovering the discoloured, fermented beans and tasting them, Minamoto found them surprisingly palatable - and thus, natto was born.

Yet hundreds of years later, the ingredient still has its share of detractors in Japan. That's why, in 2020, chef Naoko Natsumi decided to open Natto Sosaku Cuisine Natsumame, a natto-focused restaurant in Kyoto's historic Gion district that celebrates the infinite possibilities of the fermented soybean.

She offers a 4,400 yen (US$28) tasting menu where all courses feature natto in some form - natto potato salad topped with Kyoto-style seasoned egg, natto dumplings with leek and vinegared pepper, even a "neba-bonara" or her take on a natto carbonara.

The meal ends with a mini natto-flavoured ice cream topped with natto powder. These are typical dishes on the "basic" service; there is also an "expert course" that can be reserved only by guests who have been to the restaurant before.

Natsumi told local media that she had wanted to "eradicate the hate of natto beans"; the restaurant's target clientele was not necessarily those who already love natto, but those who did not understand or appreciate it - like herself, in the beginning, or her American friends.

I get it. When living in Britain, I came to enjoy natto on grilled sourdough - a twist on British beans on toast that my English flatmates did not see coming.

Eric RAty at Arbor. He is often inspired by Japanese ingredients and techniques. Last year, he added a natto dessert to the menu. Photo: Arbor

As I discovered more, I experimented more - like Natsumi, I would stir it into pasta, with shiso and salted plum.

I have also folded whisked natto into an omelette, which mimics and enhances the soft, silky curds of lightly scrambled egg. At Natsumi's restaurant, one of her signature dishes is a mentaiko cream natto omelette.

If you can stomach natto, there is a whole world of benefits. According to Cyrus Luk Siu-lun, a dietitian and executive committee member of the Hong Kong Dietitians Association, natto is an excellent source of probiotics as well as being high in protein, fibre, manganese, iron and other nutrients.

"Additionally, the fermentation process of natto produces vitamin K and nattokinase, an enzyme known for its ability to dissolve blood clots," he says. "Preliminary studies suggest that nattokinase may contribute to improved cardiovascular health."

He cites a 2001 study involving hundreds of postmenopausal women that has shown that regular consumption of natto is associated with reduced bone loss.

A natto-infused sauce is used in Arbor's fish main course. Photo: Arbor

Luk also notes that, to preserve the good probiotics contained in natto, it is best to add it towards the end of the cooking process and to avoid boiling or frying it. As such, those eating natto for health benefits are recommended to leave it untouched by heat.

And when it comes to experimenting with flavour profiles, some chefs are giving it a good go.

Eric RAty, the Finnish chef behind two-Michelin-star Arbor in Hong Kong, is often inspired by Japanese ingredients and techniques.

Last year, RAty added a natto dessert to the menu: an ice cream made with toasted natto and oat milk, served with coffee kanpyo, cold infused coffee cream, and wasanbon crumble.

"Personally, I don't like natto. But one day I toasted it in the oven and the results surprised me," he says. The process brought out a nutty umami character in the fermented soybean that he found intriguing.

Ice cream made with toasted natto and oat milk at Arbor. Photo: Arbor

He has since applied that knowledge to develop a natto-infused sauce for Arbor's fish main course of pan-roasted Murray cod, brown butter, sesame, burnt cream and smoked pike roe.

The toasted natto technique infuses an extra level of yeasty bread flavours in the sourdough sauce, he says.

"You always need to be just curious and try," he adds. "And, sometimes, you surprise yourself and get inspiration for more unique ideas."

It appears that natto might also have cosmetic benefits.

Recently, while perusing the shelves at a discount grocery store that takes in and sells products nearing their expiration date, I found something curious: nattogum face masks by Korean beauty brand Mediheal (I figure the original retail outlet was not exactly shifting record numbers of these masks, which is how they ended up here).

Korean skincare brand Mediheal have a nattogum face mask for sale. Photo: Charmaine Mok

The product, however, has a respectable 4.6/5 rating on Amazon. One user describes it as "super weird at first since it's very sticky and has a strong scent, however, this does its job".

So, if you want the benefits of natto without having to consume it, why not try putting it on your face?

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