The Food Guy: Southwest suburban restaurant serves up Texas and Carolina barbecue

The smell hits you before you even walk through the front door at Matt’s Barbecue in downtown Lemont.

Many people will likely go to barbecues when the Fourth of July arrives.

But NBC 5's Food Guy Steve Dolinsky says to hang on a second.

“Barbecue” refers to slow-smoking, while most weekend warriors “grill.” And since proper barbecue requires a bit more skill and time, he’s got a recommendation in the Southwest suburbs this week.

Like a lot of professional pitmasters, this story begins with a previous job and a life-changing trip to Texas. Fast forward a couple of years, and now that former heavy equipment operator is slow-smoking five days a week.

The smell hits you before you even walk through the front door at Matt’s Barbecue in downtown Lemont. That’s because the enormous off-set smoker is stationed just outside, on a massive deck that used to be a parking lot and now serves as a smoky alfresco retreat.

“I started doing this as a side hustle and did it out of my garage after a few trips to Texas and falling in love with the barbecue scene, and off I went,” said Matthew Borner, the owner of Matt’s BBQ.

He went with a long off-set smoker, because the air flow traditionally works on large briskets. Wood is loaded on one side, into the fire box, and the smoke travels the length of the smoker, up and out of the chimney. But you still need to mind their positioning.

“You know, if you get ‘em too close to that fire – especially for us because we’re cooking sides. We’re doing all these other things. Instead of getting a bark, you’re gonna char ‘em,” he said.

That bark is crucial – loaded with black pepper. It’s a calling card for any respectable Texas-style brisket. And it’s tricky to properly smoke both the thick point and the narrower flat, while not overcooking or drying them out. Borner also offers ribs.

“Chicago is a baby-back kind of town, so I wanted to bring that vibe to it, to kind of play off what I grew up eating in different spots in the city,” he said.

And not just baby backs, but full pork shoulders - a nod to the Carolinas.

“Big fan of South Carolina barbecue; people love the pulled pork. It was always one of our big sellers when I was doing it out of my garage. We do a Carolina sauce here now,” said Borner.

Sides are also made here: mac and cheese, potato salad and cheesy corn, but also jalapeños wrapped in bacon, stuffed with cream cheese and brisket. Lipitor, anyone?

Borner said he and his crew are always learning, but the business is a lot harder than the average weekend warrior realizes.

“Barbecue is hard. When you’re doing it in volume, it completely changes the game," Borner said. "You know, doing one or two briskets at your house with a few guests over, they’re happy with you. Doing it here? Different ballgame, right? We wind up with people loving it and they keep coming back.”

Also live music is offered on the weekends - Fridays and Saturdays. But Matt's tends to run out barbecue by around 8 p.m. when they’re busy, so plan ahead and come early.

Here's where you can go:

Matt’s Barbecue

308 Canal St., Lemont

630-863-7584