I've found the most relaxing spa hotel in France - and it's got very familiar scenery

01/07/2024

It’s 8 am and fresh from one of the dreamiest sleeps I’ve ever had, I open my balcony to be greeted by bird song, views of sweeping snow-covered mountains, and the vast waters of Lake Geneva sparkling back up at me.

As I breathed in the fresh air and sipped on my coffee, while dressed in a fluffy robe, I couldn’t think of anywhere else I’d rather be on a Friday morning - it was giving serious 'opening scenes of a Disney movie' vibes.

The 150-room Evian Resort’s Hôtel Royal was originally built in 1909, right at the peak of the Belle Époque era, for King Edward VII. While the huge building was once frequented by just the rich and well-heeled, in 2015 it was renovated and turned into a hotel, with the architect making sure to preserve its gorgeous heritage elements make space for subtle contemporary touches.

i've found the most relaxing spa hotel in france - and it's got very familiar scenery

a collage of a pool

However, it wasn't just the history of the hotel we'd come to sample, but the newly revamped spa. One of only five Evian spas around the world (and the only one in Europe) our first stop was their new outdoor hydro-circuit, before sweating out our travel stress in the steam room, and braving the snow room —a little nod to the spa's 'Evian' mountain location.

Wait — so, Evian is actually a real place?

Yep —you'll recognise its alpine mountain landscape from your Evian water bottles. The hotel sits just above the idyllic French town, with Lake Geneva at its helm. Evian-les-Bains is packed with coffee shops, a bustling marina and even a water outlet, where you can fill up your water bottle with fresh water, right from the source.

It's worth venturing down the winding (and quite steep) pathways to take a walk along the promenade and spend time gazing out at Lake Geneva. We couldn't resist taking a dip, but we had no idea how cold it is until we were immersed! However, once your body starts to acclimatise it's a very refreshing and quite mindful experience.

a woman smiling for the camera

If you're a keen hiker it's worth exploring the surrounding mountains with one of the hotel's guides. We drove up into the forest to learn more about the local wildlife, nature and the history of the area.

Just how relaxing is the spa?

a large room with a large pool

As I dipped my toe in the ice-cold water of the spa's plunge pool, I let out a shriek —we all know the benefits of cold water therapy, but as I teetered on the edge of the spa's ice-cold pool, I was starting to wonder if the benefits were worth the icy shock. I lasted 30 seconds, teeth chattering, before I jumped out into the steam room to warm up.

I could have spent hours in the Evian spa, just obviously not in the cold water plunge pool. The thing I liked most was that, true to their origins and location, the spa and treatments were based around water. Inspired by the life cycle of Evian mineral water —which takes fifteen years (yep, remember that next time you glug a bottle) to travel through the Alps.

a large building by the water

The facilities and treatments are also based on four main dimensions of the water cycle - celestial birth, mineral infiltration, precious reserves and vitalizing spring. I got to experience a toning massage called Le Vivifiant —translating into invigorating, it perfectly sums up the sleep-inducing, muscle relaxing and dribble-worthy experience.

After my massage I wasn't ready to go back into the real world so I headed deeper into the spa where I spent a good couple of hours relaxing in the hotels hydrocircut— which started in the snow room (where you literally cover yourself with ice) before switching from sauna to steam, then the outside jacuzzis, before I went back to my room for well earned nap.

If you visit in the summer you can also enjoy their outside pool and jacuzzi, which both have sweeping views of Lake Geneva and the mountains. The spa also has a fully equipped gym and you can book on to classes, such as yoga.

Tell me about the room

a bedroom with a large glass door

With touches of 19th-century French period art in the hotel's very lavish rooms, you'll find a mix of restored mahogany wood furniture along with Carrara marble in their bathrooms —which have double sinks, rain showers, an inviting bath and of course Evian water everywhere you looked.

I stayed in one of their Sejour Park view rooms, located on the 5th floor, from the balcony it gave you breathtaking views of the hotel's perfectly manicured lawns, snow-topped mountains in the distance and the gentle breeze of the freshest air I've ever breathed in —beats my regular view of Crystal Palace high street, hands down.

If you really want to splash out you can also book their most lavish room —the Edouard VII suite, the 165 sqm room has a private bar, a balcony to fit quite a few friends and two bedrooms.

Bon appetit

a plate of food and a drink

I have a confession: I have a weak spot for lavish hotel bars and Le Bar, Hotel Royal's chic oval-shaped cocktail bar didn't disappoint. We spent most evenings perched around the marble offering sampling their aperitifs - from classics to fancy offerings such as La Dolce Vita, a cherry Aperol drink. My favourite was their vintage Negroni - a tricky drink to get right. I love the bitterness of the cocktail, and their version, which has been aged in oak barrels for 60 days, was spot on.

Dining is also five-star here, starting with its Michelin-starred restaurant Les Fresques we sat down for a 6-course meal. Underneath ceilings painted by Gustave Jaulmes and a huge evergreen pine tree in the middle of the restaurant, we tucked into seasonal fruit and vegetables, fresh from their very own garden, local fish and meats, wine and tea pairings, and best of all - a selection of fromage - which was wheeled to us on a trolley.

We were also lucky enough to have lunch alfresco one day, on the lawn of their La Veranda restaurant, as the sun beamed down on us, we enjoyed fish of the day, glasses of rose and perfectly cooked frites.

a room with a table and chairs

WH verdict

The beauty of this hotel, and its location, is that you can either pack everything into your stay (hikes, dinners, exploring) or simply be at the mercy of the hotel's vibe and just relax - flitting between the spa, balcony views and lazy lunches. With nature, literally, on your doorstep, you don't have to go far to have a great experience - while you'll no doubt float away (as I did) plotting your next stay there.

Go there!

Hotel Royal: Rooms from €475 (approx. £405 per night) for a Sejour Park View Room including daily breakfast / with drink and dinner as extras. Spa access is open to all guests, however treatments are extra BOOK NOW

Flights: Fly to Geneva with British Airways or EasyJet - from £94.