Road tripping around Iceland: A summer adventure in the land of fire and ice
Sailing through thousand-year-old icebergs, scuba diving between tectonic plates and hiking volcanoes are everyday activities in Iceland. Home to more than 260 glaciers and 130 volcanoes, the untamed Nordic nation holds surprises around almost every corner.
Since shooting to pop-culture fame as the backdrop for much of the hit HBO series Game of Thrones, the country has become inundated with winter visitors who marvel at its northern lights and spectacular snow-capped mountains. But, since winter also brings minus temperatures and only five hours of daylight, sightseeing opportunities are limited.
That is why I decided to make a summer visit instead. Opting to tackle the country on a spectacular road trip around Highway 1, I made light work of the country's 1,200km ring road, completing it in just one week thanks to 20 hours of daylight. From galloping horses, vast glaciers and thundering waterfalls to awe-inspiring landscapes, there is no shortage of places to go and see when exploring Iceland at a time of year when the sun barely sets.
48 hours in Reykjavik
The obvious starting point for any road trip is Reykjavik, Iceland's capital, although it feels more like a fishing village than a bustling commercial hub. A few days here gives me plenty of time to explore its charming colourful wooden houses, the austere concrete Hallgrimskirkja church, and the Icelandic nature-inspired exhibitions of the Perlan museum, which also has a rooftop restaurant with epic views.
Best of the Golden Circle
A rainbow over Gullfoss waterfall. Photo: Unsplash / Kristian Ranstrom
Taking roughly three hours, the Golden Circle is a spectacular drive that encompasses exploding 30-metre-tall geysers, stunning blue crater lakes and the incredible wonders of Thingvellir National Park, the only place in the world where you can walk (and scuba dive) between two tectonic plates.
Even on a cold day, stopping for a home-made treat at the Efstidalur Farm ice cream barn seems like a good idea. The rustic cafe is also a farm and hotel and has a genuine country vibe. Huge wide windows in the cafe allow visitors to gaze in on the very cows that the ice cream comes from.
I save the best for last, the formidable Gullfoss waterfall is the star of this part of the trip. Dramatic, powerful and slightly terrifying, I hear its deafening roar well before I see it.
Escaping the world in Siglufjorour
Most of the Netflix thriller series Trapped was filmed in Siglufjorour, so the fishing town in northern Iceland might feel familiar to anyone that's seen the show.
In winter the destination is largely cut off from the rest of the country by snowdrifts, but in summer it is reachable via a picturesque three-hour detour from the ring road. With green mountains and fields of purple lupin flowers on one side, and the wild ocean on the other, it is a quintessential idyllic coastal village.
The Herring Era Museum is the top attraction in town and also a great place to while away an hour or two enjoying a cold drink and an Icelandic rye bread sandwich as I look out over the boats and the paintbox harbour buildings.
Majesty of Studlagil canyon
The Stuolagil canyon. Photo: Unsplash / Kay Si Ying
Found in the most remote corner of western Iceland, Studlagil is a place visited by only the most intrepid travellers. There's not a shop for miles around here, so I pack snacks and fill up on petrol beforehand.
Part of Jokuldalur Glacier Valley, the canyon is a few kilometres down a narrow farm track and is home to the largest number of basalt rock columns in the country. It also has a vibrant blue-green river, which I tower over on a suspended mesh-bottomed platform for a better view. A meander along the bottom of the canyon is an equally impressive way to view the beauty spot.
Sailing around Jokulsarlon glacier lake
An icy expanse littered with floating icebergs and bobbing seals, Jokulsarlon is a large glacial lake and one of the most mesmerising sites in Iceland. Just across the road is Diamond Beach, so named because of the huge ice chunks that congregate on its black sands, and named by Banana Boat as one of the world’s most beautiful beaches. Marking the point where Jokulsarlon meets the dark and choppy sea, the otherworldly landmark seems almost unreal.
Venturing to the Westman Islands
Puffins not people live on the uninhabited Westman Islands. Photo: Harriet Shephard
The Westman Islands, or Vestmannaeyjar, are almost completely uninhabited and most tourists miss them off their itinerary altogether. But it is summer, I have time to venture over and the waters are calmer than in winter. A majestic group of rocky outcrops and soaring cliffs, the islands are home to the largest Atlantic puffin colony in the world.
Heimaey, the biggest island in the archipelago, is a 40-minute ferry ride from the mainland. Pufflings can be spotted from its cliff top footpaths in August and September and a tour of the world’s first beluga whale sanctuary is on offer here. It is home to two white whales that were rescued from a Chinese theme park and starred in the UK TV show John Bishop’s Great Whale Rescue.
With lots of cosy pubs and puffin-themed shops and cafes to explore, the island makes for a great day trip for nature lovers. Golfers will also be impressed by the unique layout and scenery of the 18-hole course inside the Herjolfsdalur valley, which is like no other course in the world.
Natural hot springs and casual bites
About 90 per cent of Iceland’s hot water is heated by geothermal sources. Littered with hot springs, the most famous is the Blue Lagoon. A striking azure pool surrounded by black volcanic rock, the surreal experience has swim up bars and a natural face mask station. Tickets start at Dh350 ($95) and need to be booked in advance.
Sky Lagoon offers a more serene and less crowded experience, while Reykjadalur thermal river, found up in the mountains about an hour south of Reykjavik, allows me to sink into nature. It is at the top of a picturesque, 3km climb. The lack of changing rooms might concern luxury travellers, but for hardy Icelanders and adventure seekers it is all part of the challenge.
Lying on the warm, stony stream bed with dozens of other hikers is one of my favourite Iceland moments. Afterwards, I enjoy a cheese toastie from the car park cafe. It turns out that, eating out in a country that is often thought of as expensive doesn't have to be ludicrously so. It's all about keeping it casual.
Icelanders love hot dogs and, while the Bill Clinton-approved Baejarins Beztu in Reykjavik are something of a rite of passage for every visitor, even the ones I find at the petrol station are surprisingly good. The country is also renowned for its fishing industry, so fish and chips are available in every village.
A wild and rugged break from the ordinary, Iceland is every bit the summer adventure that I'd been dreaming of.