What is ectoin, the not-so-new skincare hero ingredient? From its hydrating, protective and anti-ageing benefits, to how it works … so is it better than hyaluronic acid?

• Discovered by in 1985, ectoin is a powerful amino acid that naturally occurs in desert plants - when infused into beauty products, it can protect skin against UV rays, pollution and water loss
• This hard-working compound combines the benefits of other popular skincare ingredients like niacinamide, ceramides and vitamin C; it hydrates, soothes, repairs the skin barrier and promotes brightness

There's no denying that the beauty world loves a hot new ingredient ... but recently, some of the most buzzed-about additions to skincare routines aren't exactly new discoveries. Enter ectoin, a powerful amino acid that's now stepping into the spotlight.

Biossance's Squaline + Ectoin Overnight Rescue is an intensive overnight repair cream

Amino acids are naturally occurring organic compounds that are the building blocks of proteins. Our bodies require 20 different types of amino acids; one of the most important in the beauty arena being threonine. It's essential for producing collagen and elastin and, therefore, repairing the everyday damage to our skin that contributes to ageing. Other organisms produce different amino acids though, and some of these can be hugely beneficial in the context of skincare.

Discovered in 1985 at an Egyptian salt lake, ectoin is sourced from the external amino acids found in hardy desert plants and microorganisms. When infused into skincare products, this hard-working ingredient acts as a powerful tool for maintaining healthy skin.

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Here's everything you need to know about the super ingredient.

What is ectoin?

The Powerbright Dark Spot Serum by Dermalogica fights pigmentation

Ectoin is an extremolyte, a type of small stress-protection molecule that naturally occurs in microorganisms living in extreme environments like salt lakes, hot springs, and the Arctic. "It's a natural substance produced by bacteria and algae that functions as an extracellular protectant. It works to stabilise proteins, lipids and the cellular membrane against environmental stresses like UV radiation, dehydration and temperature changes," explains Dr Ahmad Chaudhry, dual board-certified dermatologist at Scandinavian Biolabs.

What are the benefits of using ectoin?

Biossance's Squaline + Ectoin Overnight Rescue is one of a handful of products that leverages ectoin's skin barrier-strengthening effects

According to Nicole Ho, cosmetic chemist and lab manager for Genie Supply, ectoin's primary role in skincare is to "minimise transepidermal water loss, which is the process by which water evaporates from the deeper layers of the skin to the outside environment. By reducing this water loss, ectoin effectively strengthens the skin's barrier", she explains.

This enhanced barrier not only retains moisture more effectively, but also shields the skin from harmful pollutants and irritants. "As a result, skin appears healthier, more hydrated and resilient," she adds. The versatile ingredient acts as a natural moisturiser, helping to hydrate and soothe dry, damaged and irritated skin. It binds with water to create a protective, nourishing hydration shield around cells. This makes ectoin particularly beneficial for those with dry, reactive or sensitive skin types.

Dr Loretta's Universal Glow Daily Defence offers UV protection and hydration

In addition to its hydrating properties, ectoin also offers anti-inflammatory benefits. It can reduce inflammation and soothe skin, making it an excellent choice for those with inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea or acne. This powerful compound also protects the skin from damage from pollution, UV rays and blue light.

Which is better, ectoin or hyaluronic acid?

The Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream by Dr Jart is a powerful moisturiser that protects the skin barrier

For decades, hyaluronic acid has been a linchpin of the skincare universe for its hydrating properties. The powerful ingredient can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, giving skin a significant boost in hydration and elasticity while reducing redness, fine lines and wrinkles.

The Powerbright Dark Spot Serum by Dermalogica is recommended for dullness, pigmentation or an uneven skin tone

Ectoin works a lot like hyaluronic acid in that both ingredients help skin hold onto moisture. The key difference is that ectoin also offers some of the benefits of other popular skincare ingredients. It has soothing and nourishing properties that are similar to niacinamide; it helps repair the skin barrier like ceramides do; and even promotes increased brightness and bounciness like vitamin C. "Compared to antioxidants like vitamin C or niacinamide, ectoin provides broad-spectrum protection of all cell components rather than just reactive oxygen species. This makes it effective at defending the skin against the multiple external aggressors we encounter daily, like pollution, blue light from screens, and weather changes," Dr. Chaudhry says.

Which skin types are ectoin best for?

Aveda's Scalp Solutions collection brings the benefits of ectoin to haircare

Generally speaking, ectoin is suitable for all skin types. "For those interested in incorporating ectoin into their skincare regimen, it's commonly found in products like serums and creams. Using these products can help maintain skin hydration and overall integrity, especially in harsh or dry climates," Ho suggests.

Additionally, Chaudhry says that ectoin may particularly benefit ageing or sensitive skin "prone to water loss or signs of environmental damage over time".

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This article originally appeared on the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), the leading news media reporting on China and Asia.

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