Vietnamese backpacker Joy finds community in the outback town of Birdsville

Joy had never heard of Birdsville before moving out for her working holiday.  (Supplied: Ánh Nguyệt)

Joy Nguyệt says arriving in outback Queensland from Vietnam to swarms of flies in an isolated and dusty town was initially terrifying.

“I was a bit worried at that time and I sent a picture to my parents, and they said I cannot stay here,” she said.

“They said, ‘Where are the people?’ There’s nothing.”

The 29-year-old landed in Birdsville, 1,500 kilometres west of Brisbane, expecting a bustling airport but instead walked straight off the runway and across the road to the local hotel.

But it’s been seven months and Joy, or Ánh as she’s known back home, has chosen to extend her stay in the small outback town.

Birdsville, with its population of 110, is situated on the edge of the Munga-Thirri Simpson desert and is known for its rolling red sand dunes and events like the Big Red Bash.

But it’s the locals and day to day life working at the roadhouse that have Joy hooked.

“I like the life, I like the people,” she said.

“You get to know them better than living in a city.”

Learning in more ways than one

Joy was working remotely as a recruiter when she felt it was time for a new adventure, and decided to travel to Australia on a working holiday visa.

She saw a post on a community Facebook page from a previous Vietnamese employer at the town’s roadhouse, a one-stop shop for fuel, groceries, and a friendly conversation.

“Every people [sic] in town come to the roadhouse to buy things and I get to know people that way,” she said.

True to her name, the locals love her, and some are even teaching her how to drive.

Resident Greg Watkins spends his Sunday afternoons jumping in the car with Joy.

Like many people in town, Mr Watkins wears many hats and refers to himself as an “odd jobs man”.

“I thought, ‘Well there’s no driving instructors out here’ and rather than her jumping in a car and driving around vacant country roads, she needs to learn how to drive correctly,” he said.

Driving around the streets of Birdsville – or street rather – is quite different to driving in the city.

“We’ve only got two give way signs in town and no roundabouts.

“I try and create traffic for her while she’s driving, and I’ll say there’s a car on your right.”

Mr Watkins says Joy is a quick learner.

“I call her a bit of a sponge, ever since she’s got here she’s wanted to learn things and takes a lot of things in,” he said.

“She’s come from a community where there’s lots and lots of people, to a town where there’s very few.

“She worked right through the summer in 40 degrees, day after day, and didn’t complain.”

Word of mouth keeps outback businesses staffed

Backpackers like Joy keep the outback turning, particularly in the busy season.

A couple of hundred kilometres away, Windorah has a population of about 100 people and, like Birdsville, can see tens of thousands travel through during the tourist season between April and October.

Marilyn Simpson, the owner of the only pub in town, said they “need the backpackers to be able to function”.

“There were some scary times post-COVID when so many people hit the outback and we couldn’t do it, we didn’t have the staff,” she said.

While numbers are “back to normal” now, things are set to change yet again.

From July 1, British backpackers — who make up the largest population of working holiday makers – will no longer have to complete 88 days of regional work, prompting fears of an outback worker shortage.

But Ms Simpson isn’t too concerned.

“This year I’ve got predominantly Italian and Argentinian and that is because of … word of mouth.”

Reputation travels fast in the world of backpacking – one worker from last season recommends a friend for the next, until the pub is filled with Argentinian backpackers.

Ms Simpson said she prefers this method rather than hiring through agencies, which she calls a “costly exercise”.

“I like meeting them and sharing our culture and sharing their experience,” she said.