Suburban favourites and laneway legends: 10 of Melbourne’s best Spanish restaurants

Whether it’s a local neighbourhood gem worth travelling for or a Melbourne mainstay that made eating at the counter cool, here’s where to snack on the cheesiest croquetas, signature things-on-toast, seafood-studded paella and those aforementioned anchovy-pepper-olive skewers.

Anada

Gertrude Street’s 16-year-old Spanish spot might be out of the spotlight, but it’s still buzzy, its long narrow dining room all aglow through the streetside warehouse windows. The tapas menu focuses on Andalusia in Southern Spain, with home-made chorizo, and saffron aioli-dotted paellas, some of the stalwarts and standouts. There’s an extensive wine and sherry list, and plenty of tables for two, making it a warm and intimate spot for a date night.

197 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, anada.com.au

Sink into a banquette, or nab a prized seat at the bar at Bar Lourinha.

Bar Lourinha

Speaking of stayers, Matt McConnell’s Spanish restaurant has almost notched two decades. The homely, rustic sensibility is as strong as ever, with the chef magicking chickpeas into spiced gold, and career waiters tending to tables. The balanced menu is flexible enough for solo afternoons at the bar chipping away at tapas, a quick pre-theatre bite or tackling the entire carte in grand company. Long live Lourinha.

37 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, barlourinha.com.au

Bomba

An olive stone’s throw from the city’s theatre district, Bomba hits the spot whether you’re chasing a quick bite or plan to settle in for a leisurely evening of cocktails and Spanish-accented dishes. Start with a couple of montaditos – small toasts with toppings – or cheesy leek croquetas, and maybe the pork belly braised in pedro ximenez. Kicking on? You’ll need raciones (larger plates) such as shellfish paella. Fairly priced wine, sherry and aperitifs are a real draw, while upstairs, Bomba’s rooftop bar offers more chilled-out Spanish vibes with a view.

103 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, bombabar.com.au

MoVida’s signature anchovy with smoked tomato sorbet.

MoVida Original

The snack that launched a thousand imitations still takes first place on this tapas list – and in Melbourne hearts. An anchovy fillet lounges on a paper-thin crouton, scattered with capers, crowned by a smoky, silky tomato sorbet. Simultaneously punchy and refined, Frank Camorra’s signature tapa encapsulates this laneway legend’s style, with its mellow patina, thoughtful service and Iberian drinks list. While some raciones are bolted to the menu, the kitchen’s inventiveness is also showcased by mussels wrapped in kohlrabi discs; raw scallop with a golden aji amarillo chilli sauce, or zucchini tossed with calamari and take-no-prisoners spicy sausage.

1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne, movida.com.au/original

Inside the new-look MoVida Aqui.

MoVida Aqui

After a recent renovation, 13-year-old Aqui has shucked off its identity as an Andalusian workers’ cantina on a Melbourne holiday to assume the mantle of a mature restaurant. Chequerboard tiles and metres of maroon are mixed with elegantly curved banquettes and bottle-green leather chairs. New dishes, such as scaled-down crumpets with spanner crab and finger lime under a tangy blanket of saffron mayo, prove Aqui 2.0 is more than window-dressing. Group-friendly proportions − such as Josper-cooked rice-based dishes − are a drawcard over MoVida Original (see above), but sharp food is the real pull.

500 Bourke Street, Melbourne, movida.com.au/aqui

MoVida Next Door

And at the risk of this list becoming too MoVida heavy, let’s briefly mention the original’s more casual bar “next door” on the corner of Hosier Lane and Flinders Street. The spin-off accepts walk-ins only, who can expect 15 ever-changing tapas scrawled on the blackboard. But just as Melbourne will always have MoVida, Next Door will always have croquetas.

164 Flinders Street, Melbourne, movida.com.au/next-door

At La Pinta, diners gather around the U-shaped bar.

La Pinta

At this no-bookings local favourite, prospective guests are welcomed like old friends, then slotted along the room’s edge to prop at shelves just wide enough to rest your glass. Prepare to wait for a sought-after seat at the horseshoe bar fringing a tiny lamplit kitchen, from which a perfectly paced output of dishes arrives on op-shop plates: perhaps smoked lamb so soft it cuts with the accompanying spork or plump mussels and a scattering of saffron-dyed artichoke. As you linger, spare a thought for those still waiting – though they’re probably managing just fine.

791 High Street, Reservoir, lapintareservoir.com.au

Gildas (skewers of anchovy, olive and pickled peppers) with vermut-and-paprika dressing at Little Drop of Poison in Eltham.

Little Drop of Poison

It’s easy to build a meal from Basque-style pintxos (such as gilda skewers with with vermut-and-paprika dressing), Spanish tapas, Mexican tacos and Latin American bites at this cosy but free-thinking bar that brings inner-city poise to the city fringe. You might luck onto grilled king prawns with garlic and chilli or a generous seafood-studded paella served in dainty bowls. Plus, there’s always plenty for vegans and gluten-avoiders. What’s your poison? Ours is the bracing, made-to-order sangria combining Spanish red wine, lemonade and a shot of aromatic vermut.

937B Main Road, Eltham, littledropofpoison.com.au

Plant-based morcilla at Lona Misa.

Lona Misa

It takes a lot to wow vegan taste buds in a city like Melbourne, but this plant-based, Latin-inspired hotel restaurant, overseen by chefs Shannon Martinez and Ian Curley, does just that. Find yourself a fire engine-red booth and start the fiesta with a chilli-spiked cocktail. An armload of hardworking small plates might include velvety croquetas with plant-based manchego, or a neat (and sans-meat) morcilla (blood sausage) with a yolk-like topping over fried bread. Rather dine in private? Book a room upstairs at the Ovolo and order in.

234 Toorak Road, South Yarra, lonamisa.com.au

Basque-syle battered mussels at Sebastian.

Sebastian

Whether you’re at a table by the window or sunk into a booth, deep blues meet your line of sight, the cerulean sea matched by wallpaper, carpet and leather in various shades of blue. Despite Sebastian being named after San Sebastian, it doesn’t always stick to the Spanish script. For purists there are gildas, jamon with melon, txakoli (Basque sparkling wine) and plenty from the charcoal grill, but if you’re willing to expand your horizons – perhaps bypassing Basque cheesecake in favour of an elegant ice-cream sandwich – Sebastian will meet you halfway.

26 Esplanade, Williamstown, sebastianbeachgrill.com

The Age Good Food Guide 2024 is on sale for $14.95 from newsagents and at thestore.com.au