Redefining Filipino Hospitality

Hapag, once in Katipunan, has moved up to a new level at the Balmori Suites in Rockwell. And it’s no small step — it’s a giant leap forward for Manila’s dining scene.

I had the chance to talk with the people leading Hapag’s new chapter: chefs and partners Thirdy Dolatre and John Kevin Navoa, along with Erin Ganuelas, their operations manager and sommelier. Dolatre graduated from the Center for Culinary Arts in Manila, and Navoa studied at KDU University College in Kuala Lumpur. They’ve been friends since they were kids. “He was my seventh grade class president. Believe it or not,” Navoa laughed, showing how deep their friendship goes.

They started Hapag in 2017 as a private dining concept, then eventually set up in Katipunan. “Our goal was always clear: to celebrate and elevate Filipino cuisine. We just needed the right way to introduce Hapag,” Dolatre explained. This new space is another iteration of their culinary dream, like a progression from adolescence to adulthood.

Okoy and pearls: Tagunton baby shrimp and vegetable okoy fritters, pinakurat sour cream and chives, ikura.

The concept is split into two areas: the dining area, Hapag, which means a low dining table with short legs, and the bar, Ayà, named after the Filipino word magyaya which is “ to invite.” Like their chosen Filipino words, their new space is an ode to everything beautiful about being Filipino.

They took a chance by looking for a sommelier for Hapag. They met Ganuelas after an Instagram direct message turned into a four-hour meeting. When Ganuelas joined the team, everything clicked. She brought with her hospitality training from Australia and new ideas, which helped shape their approach. “We just wanted to play around with the concept of Filipino hospitality,” Ganuelas said.

umpia, Silog, Chicharon, Pinalaman: Chive lumpia cylinder, pork and kutchay mousse, sweet chili gel; burong sinangag, Alaminos longganisa, egg mousse, atsara, gamet rice cracker; pork chicharon, taba ng talangka, pickled shallot, parachute leaves; shrimp tagilo mousse “pimiento”.

Together, they’ve thoughtfully worked on every part of Hapag and Ayà, ensuring it reflects their vision for Filipino dining today. There are no coincidences in this new space; every element is intentional and meaningful.

Turon: lumpia “cornetto”, banana cream, langka jam, chocolate ganache, kasuy.

Childhood Memories, Local Ingredients, and a Nod to Our Past

Hapag’s menu is full of surprises, crafted and served by a team of almost 40 with deep expertise and a knack for reinvention.

One example is a playful dish called Pinalaman, one of the staff said is “inspired by a famous biscuit here in the country, SkyFlakes. So, we called it Hapag’s Flakes.” The bite-sized snack is made of shrimp tails, mousse “pimiento,” and homemade flakes.

Another is a palate cleanser called Kinaskas, a dish inspired by the snow cones we get on school trips. It is made of hibiscus kombucha, strawberry ice, scoby, mulberry, and rose vinegar syrup.

There are many familiar touches, such as a nilaga broth paired with tomato salsa, fried bonete from Batangas, or mini turon inspired by Cornetto. The menu is playful but also sparks conversation on Filipino cuisine.

“Our menu is progressive and challenges what we all know about Filipino food,” said Dolatre. “It dives deep into our culture. It is carefully planned and precise.”

Ayà, a bar that looks like a glass house and is perfect for drinking at any time of the day or night, serves drinks that blend local ingredients with classic cocktail styles.

Imagine sipping a Kamias Margarita, Coconut Negroni, or a Rice Martini — each one brings a taste of the Philippines but is still familiar.

Pulutan or bar snacks, are also given a creative spin. “We love pulutan, but we also like to make it pretty,” Navoa explained, highlighting their innovative take on dishes such as Gamet Kopek, Pares Toast, Okoy and Pearls, Singulaw, Choc nut, and even Banana Bread Pudding.

Binakol, Inadobo, Ensalada: Coconut and chicken broth, malunggay leaves; beef shortrib and chicken adobo rice; ripe and unripe Philippine mango, grape tomatoes, fresh lato, sukang iloko.

Ganuelas said, “As Filipinos, we love overfeeding and caring for people, especially at home.” The same can be said in Hapag and Ayà. This generosity in service, food, and drink is a big part of the Filipino culture, much like what you see in a big family and barkada gathering.

A Vessel for Filipino Artists and Our Roots

A key question guided their efforts as they built the restaurant and bar: “How can we create a space that touches everything from emotions to your senses?” shared Navoa.

Nothing is left to chance in this concept, from the music composed specifically for the restaurant to the art showcasing cultural icons like the legendary tattoo artist Whang-Od and National Hero Jose Rizal; each element was chosen carefully. The locally made jars for fermentation that greet you upon entry are just the beginning of the details that fill every corner. “We want this to be a vessel for different Filipino artists. Everything here is made by local artists and friends,” Navoa added.

As I finished my last bite of the tasting menu, Navoa remarked, “We hope we made you proud to be Filipino.”

I certainly was, and I believe anyone who visits will feel the same. Hapag and Ayà aren’t just a place to dine and drink; the space is that love song you’d dedicate to our food, culture, and the identity of a Filipino.

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Hapag is located at 7/F Balmori Suites, Rockwell Center,Makati City, Philippines.