Eater Houston’s Best Dishes of the Week: March 18

A chorizo (right) and migas taco (left) at Sunrise Tacos.

There are more than 12,000 restaurants in Houston. With at least 145 languages spoken across town and communities bringing compelling fare from regions like south Louisiana and the West Coast, and countries such as Mexico, Syria, and the Philippines, there’s no shortage of outstanding food in the Bayou City. Check back weekly to see the best things Eater Houston’s editor ate this week.

March 18

The Three Sisters at Th Prsrv

Members of the Iroquois and Cherokee tribes prized what they called “the three sisters” — corn, beans, and squash. When grown together, the crops nurture one another and often ripen in tandem. At Th Prsrv, a fine dining restaurant centering Indigenous Thai and Native American cuisines that has taken the Houston area by storm, chef David Skinner’s delicately composed interpretation of the three sisters speaks to a larger history. The “day and night” dish, one of the earlier courses in the meal, includes black tepary beans cooked with vegetable ash alongside a soothing butternut squash puree spotted with Skinner’s lauded corn butter. Salmon is cured with honey before being smoked and nestled between the squash (day) and beans (night). The chef encourages visitors to eat the components together, producing a creamy, slightly sweet amalgam of flavors. It was one of many standouts in an unforgettable dining experience that celebrates Native American and Indigenous Thai cooking. 709 Harris Ave, Kemah, TX 77565

Th Prsrv’s “Day and Night” is an elegant interpretation of the three sisters.

Tuna Empanada at Little Patagonia

Most know that the best places to eat in Houston are often in strip malls across town, and such was the case when I stumbled into Little Patagonia, an Argentina cafe near the Galleria. I expected to be most moved by the Texas brisket and guava and cheese empanadas. While both of these renditions tasted great, the tuna empanada ($3.25), filled with warm tuna salad mixed with sautéed peppers, olives, and aromatics, was one of the best standalone bites I’ve enjoyed in the city in months. The edible stamp, emblazoned on the top of each empanada to denote which is which, was an especially charming addition. 5393 Westheimer Rd Suite B, Houston, TX 77056

A tuna and brisket empanada at Little Patagonia.

Chorizo Taco at Sunrise Tacos

Despite having grown up in Houston, I’ve passed by Sunrise Tacos countless times without stopping to try the gas station parking lot favorite — until now. The beauty of my chorizo taco ($2.89) was in its simplicity. The flour tortillas are fresh and warm to the touch, as well as large enough to sop up all of the spiced oil from the chorizo. It was decadent, comforting, and substantial, which is exactly what you want from an old-school neighborhood restaurant. 5601 Memorial Dr, Houston, TX 77007

A chorizo and migas taco at Sunrise Tacos