Desa Sri Hartamas' Uo Shin offers hand pressed sushi that won't break your wallet

Malay Mail

KUALA LUMPUR, May 6 — Everyone loves a good bargain. Especially if it’s sushi.

My relationship with sushi is complicated.

In the beginning, I was happy to scarf down conveyor belt sushi or supermarket sushi. For me, these were quick, accessible sushi. One could grab-and-go your selection of sushi for an express meal.

Once the first blush of discovering a new food item had waned a little, I started to notice things like, why is the rice hard or occasionally I’ll hit up a not too fresh piece of raw fish.

Then I was attracted to the more alluring omakase, especially when Nagoya-based Sushi Hinata first opened its doors. Like a shiny, bright gem, it was new and exciting for me and all my friends.

Try one of these round shaped Salno Uo Temari with various flavours including one with sea urchin (left). There’s various nigiri sushi served in three portions where some focus on one ingredient like prawns that is presented with different flavours (right).

Try one of these round shaped Salno Uo Temari with various flavours including one with sea urchin (left). There’s various nigiri sushi served in three portions where some focus on one ingredient like prawns that is presented with different flavours (right).

Using our fingers, rather than chopsticks, to pick up our bite sized sushi felt a little risque. Even the sashimi wasn’t chunky. Here, they were sliced thinly, allowing the tongue to relish the flavours from the sea.

Fast forward to the present day and omakase has become an integral part of life. Nowadays, the omakase has become the default choice for any special celebration.

Sadly steak is no longer the first choice to commemorate that annual party. One can’t blame that shift in priorities, since social media dictates that sushi is much prettier than a slab of meat!

With so many choices available, I have discovered that it’s fine to enjoy all types of sushi. It depends on the situation.

Sometimes it’s an uber expensive omakase with a Japanese chef and luxurious ingredients with a certificate of origin. At other times, just conveyor belt sushi drenched in mentai sauce hits the spot

Hotate Mentai Nigiri has a half cut scallop that is sweet and tasty with the marinated rice (left). Aburi Engawa Maki has blow torched flounder fin that melts into luscious fat with rice (right).

Hotate Mentai Nigiri has a half cut scallop that is sweet and tasty with the marinated rice (left). Aburi Engawa Maki has blow torched flounder fin that melts into luscious fat with rice (right).

Mid-level sushi places seem to be on the rise too. They’re a step higher than conveyor belt sushi and do well for days when all you want to do is stuff your face with sushi without breaking your credit card.

That’s how I felt when I dined at Uo Shin. Opened by the good folks who operate Shin Zushi, it offers hand pressed sushi, sashimi, maki and more.

A friend had asked me to join her at the Desa Sri Hartamas outlet as she was curious about the eatery having walked past it many times.

While social media talks about long queues during peak times, we opted for a weekday lunch that was quiet and accessible.

You order from the electronic menu at the table. It is truly a Pandora’s box of sushi and sashimi. Once you start tapping on that menu, you end up ordering more and more.

Salmon Fuyu Maki uses cucumber rather than seaweed for extra crunch and it comes with salmon, omelette and crispy fried bits to give it texture.

Salmon Fuyu Maki uses cucumber rather than seaweed for extra crunch and it comes with salmon, omelette and crispy fried bits to give it texture.

For those who don’t eat raw fish, there are other options like ramen, rice bowls, grilled fish, teppanyaki and so forth. You can definitely find something here.

Select from an assortment of sashimi or just go for your favourite fish. Prices start from RM12 for ika sashimi or cuttlefish. Or indulge in a bowl of uni for RM50.

My Kanpachi Sashimi (RM18) was in the mid-range. Also known as greater amberjack, it has a clean flavour that makes it good to kickstart a meal.

For the nigiri sushi, there’s also roasted nigiri, which actually refers to those blow torched and gunkan sushi, where seaweed wraps the rice, resembling a battleship.

If you’re too lazy to decide which nigiri sushi to pick, just opt for the prepared combinations, like the Salmon Uo Temari (RM14), these round shaped sushi has three different flavours, including a gunkan version with salmon cubes crowned with sea urchin. The other two salmon sushi, include one with crispy bites for a contrast of textures and another drizzled with their house soy sauce that gives it a slight sweet taste.

Shima Aji Nigiri is best enjoyed without any of the housemade sauce (left). Tick the ‘no sauce’ option for the assortment of nigiri sushi to enjoy the seafood with the soft marinated rice (right).

Shima Aji Nigiri is best enjoyed without any of the housemade sauce (left). Tick the ‘no sauce’ option for the assortment of nigiri sushi to enjoy the seafood with the soft marinated rice (right).

The selections focus on one ingredient with different flavours, like the Kuruma Santen Nigiri (RM8.50) that uses cooked prawns, which tend to have not much taste.

You’re better off with the Hotate Mentai Nigiri (RM12) and Aburi Engawa Maki (RM19). The hotate or scallop is split into half, letting you enjoy its sweet taste. For the maki, the flounder fin is torched to become luscious fat that coats the rice, with each bite.

There’s all kinds of maki including the unusual Salmon Fuyu Maki (RM11) which uses thinly sliced cucumber instead of seaweed. It’s an interesting combination of salmon, snow crab with chopped omelette and crunchy flaked fish. You get a sweet, creamy sauce with the maki that is refreshing with the cucumber.

The Bata Uo Zushi (RM19.50) is a trio of Miyazaki Wagyu A5, unagi and salmon with a touch of truffle sauce. The way they present their nigiri sushi, you get a long thin slice of the topping whether it’s fish, beef or eel, followed by a small portion of marinated rice, which is not too hard.

Another favourite is the Shima Aji Nigiri (RM5.50) with the silvery skin fish.

One can sit at the counter to chill and dine on Japanese food.

One can sit at the counter to chill and dine on Japanese food.

As I delved into the menu, I could see how each nigiri sushi would come dabbed with a brown coloured housemade sauce. It gives a slightly sweet taste to the whole ensemble. After many nigiri sushi, I found that the taste of every piece was the same with the presence of that sauce.

Luckily, there’s an option to omit the sauce in the menu. Click on that and it opens up a world of flavours. I could taste the sweet hotate or get the lusciousness of engawa.

During the weekdays, the place is an oasis of calmness as you indulge in your favourite sashimi or sushi.

While we were lucky to get a table, we still made a reservation via this link.

Look out for this place that is underneath popular Korean restaurant, Buldojang.

Look out for this place that is underneath popular Korean restaurant, Buldojang. Uo Shin, 14, Jalan 24/70A, Desa Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur. Open daily: 11.30am to 9.30pm. Tel:03-62111811. Instagram: @uoshin_hq

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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