Bhopal wants us to move on from 1984 and visit it for its palaces and wildlife

06/05/2024

When I first decided to visit Bhopal, I didn’t have many expectations. Unlike those who had never set foot in Bhopal and were inclined to believe stereotypes, I too was prepared to see a city still bearing the scars of the 1984 incident.

So, after packing 12 outfits for the next 5 days and downloading 5 hours of content for the hour-long flight from Delhi, I was ready to land in the ‘city of lakes.’

Upon arrival at Raja Bhoj Airport, one of the state’s primary airports, the first thing that caught my attention was the fresh air. A quick Google search made me realise that the city’s Air Quality Index has always been ‘good’ or ‘satisfactory’, a rare occurrence for people living in metro cities.Â

bhopal wants us to move on from 1984 and visit it for its palaces and wildlife

Bhopal;sÂ Air Quality Index has always been ‘good’ or ‘satisfactory’. Photo: Getty Images

I took a deep breath and was ready to go to our hotel, which was around 15 kilometres from the airport, but surprisingly, we reached the property in no time as there were no long signals or traffic to get stuck in.

‘We don’t fight here’

During our journey to Jehan Numa Palace Hotel, we witnessed a minor collision between two cars. The damage was not severe, but it was clear that one of the drivers was at fault.Â

As a Delhiite, I was ready with my imaginary popcorn (guilty), expecting a confrontation. However, to our shock (the second shock in the next 15 minutes, Ik), the driver who caused the accident apologised, and the other driver accepted his apology with an insincere smile.Â

“This would have ended differently in Delhi,” I remarked to my driver.Â

With a puzzled look, he responded, “We don’t handle things that way here. We apologise and move on.”

“That’s nice,” I said, continuing to gaze out of my window into clean roads, pristine lakes and buildings that look like a blend of modern architecture and historic monuments and soak in the fresh air.

The name Bhopal is said to come from Bhojpal, which means “Bhoj’s dam”. The dam was built by a minister of Raja Bhoj. Photo: Getty Images

“Welcome to the city of lakes,” read a huge banner near one of the 17 lakes in the city.

The Land of Begums: BhopalÂ

So, 15 minutes later, we arrived at our first stop, Jehan Numa Palace, a royal 19th-century palace located on the slope of the Shamla Hills. We were welcomed with a warm smile and a freshly squeezed watermelon sherbet.Â

Bhopal is the land of begums, and it was the only city in our country that saw the reign of the Nawab Begums from 1819 to 1926- who not only ruled this former princely state but built around a lot of facilities here, from hospitals to schools to mosques that we can even see now, explains Aman Dhaundiyal, the general manager of the palace.Â

The Jehan Numa Palace Hotel was built during the rule of Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum of Bhopal in 1893. Photo: AuthorÂ

The Jehan Numa Palace Hotel is one such historic endeavour. It was also built during the rule of Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum of Bhopal, the second ‘Nawab Begum’ of Bhopal, in 1893.Â Â

But it was Sultan Jahan Begum’s second son, General Obaidullah Khan, who was also the commander-in-chief of the Bhopal State Force, who built this palace as a royal guest house to accommodate special guests and dignitaries visiting the princely state of Bhopal.

Today, the palace has been renovated and converted into a luxury heritage hotel, offering modern amenities like spas, saunas, a swimming pool, and a fitness centre while preserving its historical charm.Â It is a beautiful classical white structure with British colonial, Italian Renaissance and Classical Greek architecture with 98 rooms and 5 suites.Â Â

The Jehan Numa Palace offers the charming sight of two beautiful horses strolling by your balcony in the morning and evening. Photo: Jehan Numa Palace

“The ceilings are the same, we haven’t changed much, but we are constantly trying to restructure without changing much,” says Aman.Â

We could see history ‘being preserved’ at the palace, in the form of portraits of Nawabs, Begums and important historical events captured in sepia tones and photographs and more than a 100-year-old mango tree.Â

‘Bhopal does not have its own cuisine’

Dinner was served under the mango tree at the heart of the palace grounds, emulating the dining experiences of the Nawabs and Begums of Bhopal for dinner.

“Today, we enjoy 3 or 5-course meals, but in the era of the Nawabs, hunting expeditions or entertaining guests called for 33-course feasts. We have revived those royal recipes and presented them at our General’s Table,” explains Aman.

What is it?Â The General’s Table offers a unique dining experience, where guests can indulge in dishes crafted from the royal kitchens of the Begums and Nawabs of Bhopal.

At the General’s Table under the mango tree. Photo: Author

Dining at the General’s Table was truly a lavish affair, featuring a menu with over 20 dishes, from the delicate Galouti Kebab to the flavorful Bhopali Yakhni Pulao.

Now, if you’re thinking that the names of these Bhopali dishes resemble those from Lucknow or Hyderabad, you’re not alone.

Jeewan Singh, the executive chef of the palace explained to us that Bhopal does not have its own ‘signature dish.’ Instead, it draws inspiration from Lucknowi and Hyderabadi cuisine. The resulting blend is neither overly spicy nor excessively sweet, striking a perfect balance.

In Search of the TigerÂ

On the second day of our trip, we set out to Satpura National Park, two hours from Bhopal, in search of tigers.

We stayed at Bori Safari Lodge, one of the few properties located near the national park. This recently launched lodge has quickly gained popularity for its amenities, such as an infinity plunge pool, a spa, indoor and outdoor dining areas, and a library clubbed with special experiences like a special picnic near a lake, or their bonfire dinnerÂ and, of course, its proximity to the National Park.Â

Â A specially served Mahua cocktail (Mahua is local Bhopali fruit that is fermented to produce alcohol). Photo: Author.Â

The lodge’s interiors exude a rustic charm that complements the feeling of being near a sanctuary.Â However, for us, the best part of the resort has to be the naturalists who guided us on the safari rides.Â

The lodge’s interiors exude a rustic charm that complements the feeling of being near a sanctuary. Photo: AuthorÂ

At around 4:30 pm, we started day 1 of Safari from the lodge. Although we didn’t spot a tiger on the first day of Safari, we realised that Satpura’s jungle is not just about tigers; it is home to more than 300 species of birds, with other animals including spotted deer, Indian bison (Gaur), leopards, wild boars, wild dogs, sloth bears, black bucks, porcupine, sambhar and more.Â Â

You have to remember that Satpura’s safari offers three safari timings and only seven to eight Gipsy are allowed at once.

‘Only fortunate people spot tigers’

Ever since I set foot in Bhopal, tigers and spotting tigers have been the hot topic of our conversations with almost everyone I met, which bared my excitement to see this majestic beast IRL high.

However, after the first day of disappointment, I wasn’t sure we could see a tiger the next day either.

“Spotting animals in the wild is, of course, about looking for clues to find out where the tiger is, but it also really depends on your luck”, says Shubham Alave, a naturalist and photographer, who guided us during our safaris.Â Â

And how lucky were we? See the pictures for yourself:Â

‘Pratap’, walks towards us. Photo: Tarkik Verma/Bori Safari LodgeÂ

Tiger ‘Pratap’ and the tigressÂ ‘Littleheart’. Photo: AuthorÂ

‘People only remember the Gas Tragedy’

“Ever since the Bhopal Gas Tragedy, whenever people think of tourism in Bhopal, they’re unsure of what to expect; especially Indians,” says Ajay Chauhan, our guide, as we took a ‘heritage walk’ through the lanes of Bhopal.

Contrary to common perceptions, Chauhan asserts that Bhopal is a veritable treasure trove, boasting the historical UNESCO site of Bhimbetka and the illustrious Taj-ul-Masajid, one of India’s largest mosques.Â

The Bhimbetka rock shelters are an archaeological site that exhibits the earliest traces of human life in India. Photo: Author

On our last day there, that’s exactly what we did. We went on an expedition to discover Bhopal through its food and iconic monuments. However, there is no doubt that Safari gets you exhausted.

So, to rejuvenate ourselves, we stayed at Jehan Numa Retreat Club & Spa in Bhopal.Â Â

Jehan Numa Palace Retreat is a 30-minute drive from Bhopal airport.Â

Nestled around an old Jamun tree, this retreat not only allows its guests to rejuvenate through various activities (from pottery making to mixology) and board games that they offer, but also prides itself on its steadfast commitment to sustainability.

The in-house farmers procure vegetables from the on-site farm. Photo: Author

“Most of the produce served to our guests comes from our farms inside the property,” says Vincent Marques, general manager.

Through the lanes of BhopalÂ

After a fresh farm lunch, we were all set to explore the land of begums, where we started the heritage walk to Gauhar Mahal, a splendid palace which was built 200 years ago.Â

The Taj-ul-Masajid is the largest mosque in India. Photo: Author

“The Nawab Begums of Bhopal”, who were a line of powerful and progressive female rulers who were known for their intelligence, courage, and administrative acumen, and had built schools, hospitals, mosques and palaces that have now been converted into museums, resorts, and historical moments in Bhopal.

During our heritage walk, we landed in “Chatori Gali,” a bustling area renowned for satisfying all your street-food cravings.Â

In the lanes of old Bhopal. Photo: AuthorÂ

Finally, it was time to say goodbye to this hidden gem of a city, and return to our “Hazardous AQI” with the lesson that you cannot judge a place without visiting it, and if you do, you might be missing out on a trove of memories.Â