Filipino Chef Wins James Beard Awards
Filipino chef Lord Maynard Llera, owner of modern-Filipino restaurant Kuya Lord in Los Angeles, won Best Chef: California at the 2024 James Beard Foundation Restaurant and Chef Awards. The recognition, which celebrates the outstanding talent and accomplishments in the fields of culinary arts, hospitality, media, and the overall food industry, is often referred to as "Oscars of the food industry."
Llera earlier told LA Times that whether he wins or not, the nomination means a lot to him and his restaurant because it will shine a spotlight on Filipino cuisine.
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Born and raised in Lucena City, Quezon Province, Llera moved to the United States in 2004 to study culinary arts and pursue his dream of opening a restaurant inspired by Filipino culture, traditions, and flavors. He admitted that the journey was particularly challenging as an international student from the Philippines.
Kuya Lord is located at 5003 Melrose Avenue Los Angeles, California
@kuyalord_la on Instagram
Before attending culinary school in 2004, he began his career at Jollibee in Norwalk, California. "I worked in the kitchen as a fry cook and sometimes, as a Jollibee mascot," he shared in an interview with LA magazine Voyagela. "I realized, there was nothing easy in life and sometimes you just have to take the challenge to move forward and achieve my ultimate goal."
He eventually graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and subsequently began his professional career at The Green Room, a Forbes Four-Star French fine-dining restaurant in Delaware’s renowned Hotel DuPont.
Kuya Lord's version of Batangas Goto is beef soup with shank, tendons and tripe.
@kuyalord_la on Instagram
After relocating to Los Angeles, he worked with esteemed chefs like Neal Fraser at Grace and Redbird, and Nyesha Arrington at the Wilshire Restaurant, gaining exposure to French-American and California cuisine. He also served in the kitchens of well-known restaurants like Republique and Fi’lia by Michael Schwartz. He was the Sous Chef for the opening of Chef Ori Menashe’s Italian restaurant, Bestia, where he refined his Italian culinary skills over four years.
In 2017, he became the Culinary Director of The h.wood Group, where, within ten months, he opened seven restaurants: Mason Chicago, Mason Santa Monica, 40 Love, Slab, Alice Kitchen, Harriet’s, and Petite Taqueria. In addition to that, he oversaw the culinary development of premier establishments such as The Nice Guy and Delilah.
Mussels in Coconut Milk
@kuyalord_la on Instagram
At 40, in 2019, Llera embarked on his solo venture, launching Kuya Lord pop-ups, which brought his spin on Southern Tagalog cuisine to wine bars, breweries, food events, and private dining rooms. These pop-ups also allowed him to showcase all three of his restaurant concepts: fine dining, fast casual, and street food.
When COVID-19 hit and Californians were instructed to stay home, Llera seized the moment to focus on research and development, perfecting recipes for future projects. He transformed his La Cañada Flintridge home’s garage and backyard into a fully equipped kitchen and grill.
Braised Short Rib Kare Kare
@kuyalord_la on Instagram
In the first few months, Llera and his wife, Gigi, prepared Filipino dishes for friends, family, and long-time supporters. Through word of mouth, more people began to inquire about his food. This led to Kuya Lord gaining popularity, with customers picking up food weekly, particularly large family-style portions of various dishes.
This interest resulted in numerous articles featuring Kuya Lord's culinary creations, solidifying his brand. With the world reopening, he decided to establish a permanent location for his concept, a 28-seater space in East Hollywood.
Kuya Lord is an "elevated fast casual restaurant" featuring regional Filipino dishes that Llera grew up eating in Lucena City. "While the food harkens back to his childhood, Chef Maynard applies his classical techniques in enhancing and reinventing traditional Filipino dishes," reads the description on the restaurant's website.
In this acceptance speech at the James Beard awards, Llera thanked his wife, who has supported him since day one. "Without her, Kuya Lord wouldn’t be here now… This recognition is not just a testament to my individual efforts and hard work but a reflection of the support and encouragement and collaboration from many wonderful people in my life. I am fortunate enough to have mentors, friends and family all throughout this journey."
He also thanked his team and his sous chef, Josh Simpao, who were running the restaurant while he was in Chicago to experience the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity of accepting such an accolade.