Gucci's 2025 Cruise Show Channeled London's Storied & Multifaceted History
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While Sabato De Sarno’s first two collections as Gucci’s newly appointed creative director evoked smoldering Italian vibes, his first Cruise show for the brand is tapping into his softer, more ethereal side. Set in the London’s Tate Modern art gallery, the Valentino alum created a winding British garden-like runway, decorated with lush green plumage that appeared to have sprouted from a day of heavy rain (a common occurrence in the city). Likely an homage to London’s regal and mystical history, De Sarno’s May 13 presentation was rife with prim details and fairy-like gowns that felt straight out of a storybook — and not the streets of Milan.
As it happens, Gucci’s heritage has links to the British capital, hence the choice of location. In fact, the iconic horse bit chain bag and the brand itself was inspired by founder Guccio Gucci’s fondness for horse riding style, a look he was exposed to while working as a luggage porter at The Savoy Hotel in London. And, yes, this morsel of British equestrian culture was certainly present in De Sarno’s latest collection, from the aforementioned horse bit hardware clasped across belt buckles, jackets, and the brand’s signature loafers to the sturdy, buttery leather outerwear styled pant-less (in true De Sarno style).
— HENRY NICHOLLS/AFP/Getty Images
— HENRY NICHOLLS/AFP/Getty Images
London’s status as a fairytale landmark also came into play via the gauzy, sheer pussy bow blouses that were a constant presence on the Cruise 2025 runway. Paired with roomy patchwork denim, fringe midi skirts, and low-slung trousers, the blouse is not-so-subtly being positioned as the next big office wear trend as far as Gucci’s concerned. The same romantic fabric was used in the plunging trailing princess-like gowns presented, set in confectionary colors of soft yellow, blues, and greens.
Adding to the magical nature of the collection were the glimmering separates that were reminiscent of the previous creative director Alessandro Michele’s penchant for maximalism. Glittering fringed skirt sets and outsized jackets added a sparkle of glamour to otherwise dreamlike presentation, catching light as they swished down the garden labyrinth.
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The sky-high flatforms that were a fixture in De Sarno’s previous collections were swapped for dainty ballet flats of varying styles. In addition to classic plain leather silhouettes set in neutral color ways of tan and black, dancer-inspired styles also appeared, with lace-up detailing that felt apropo for the romantic ambiance.
Ahead, some highlights from De Sarno’s latest London-inspired collection, in all its mystical glory.
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— John Phillips/Getty Images