Refreshing Mumbai's restaurants | Haute tables

On Mumbai's culinary landscape, it's common to see new restaurants mushrooming almost daily, only to die off as quickly. Surprisingly, in this gone-in-60-seconds culture, there are many iconic restaurants that survive. Here are a few that have reinvented and revitalised in recent times...

Pritam Da Dhaba

Then: The Kohlis from Rawalpindi took over the Pritam Hindu Hotel which was functioning since 1942 and rechristened it as they brought the food of the Punjab to newly formed India in 1947. It's universally hailed as the birthplace of butter chicken in Mumbai.

Now: While they've added new items over the years, the latest avatar of this iconic eatery headed by fourth-generation restaurateur Jaibir Kohli sees a (logical) expansion into Juhu and décor that blends a rustic dhaba vibe with contemporary style and Instagrammable truck-art wall murals. Bollywood Retro Cocktails elevate it from its Patiala-peg positioning.

Gaylord

The beautiful bar at the iconic Gaylord restaurant.

Then: Friends Pishori Lal Lamba and Iqbal Krishan Ghai, who sold ice-cream and later opened the Kwality Restaurant in Delhi's Connaught Place in 1947 decided to create a new brand in Mumbai. That's how Gaylord was born in 1956.

Now: Seeing the slew of swanky establishments reviving the street where Gaylord held sway for so long, owner Sunil Lamba and his sons Dhruv and Divij, decided to upgrade it. The refurbish involves glamorous red, black, and white interiors. The walls are lined with over a hundred gilt-framed black & white photographs. While the décor and the old team take you back into a colourful past, a super glam bar and signature cocktails fast forward you into the future.

Copper Chimney

The show kitchen at Copper Chimney.

Then: Copper Chimney was started by J.K. Kapur—who migrated from Lahore during Partition—in Worli in 1972, and helmed by Chef Tari, a woman, which was a rarity then. The show kitchen was the first one in India.

Now: Boasting pan-Indian and international footprints, the brand has been evolving to add contemporary touches to their interiors. Think elegant show kitchens framed by lush foliage and beaten brass bells, modern furniture and professional service.

Parsi Dairy Farm

Then: Opened at Princess Street in 1916 by Nariman Ardeshir, the dairy soon produced milk-based products that captured Mumbai's heart.

Now: Four fourth-generation siblings—Bakht­yar Irani, Sarfaraz Irani, Zee­­nia Patel and Parvana Mistry—run the show. A readily recognisable red door leads into the flagship store at Marine Lines and new locations in Ghatkopar and Borivali. Products and packag­ing display old-world charm and flavours even as they're as contemporary as they come in terms of quality control and recyclability.

Gallops

Then: Gallops, a Continental and Indian restaurant run by Rahul Malik and Jasmine Singh at the Royal Western India Turf Club, has been a rare gem for those in the know since it opened in 1986.

Now: A restaurant that has sta­yed the course and updated to keep pace with the times, they have added an elegant al fresco section with cabanas and gorgeous fairy lighting, special-occasion menus and a pivot towards private parties/ events. A refresh of the main restaurant is coming up. n

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