Shanghai’s dining scene is in flux, but its former French Concession has never quite shaken off its European mantle, as can be seen in the lovely London plane trees lining its streets and the plethora of bustling boulangeries and patisseries.
As flat as gravity will allow, thanks to being on the alluvial plain of the Yangtze River Delta, the city is a dream to cruise on two wheels (even with a baguette tucked under one arm).
This route combines a bike ride around Shanghai’s French Concession with stops at six bakeries. Illustration: Sammi Sowerby
Electric bicycles are available to rent on just about every corner; enlist the aid of a local pal or your hotel concierge to connect your credit card to one of China’s super apps, scan the QR code on your chosen steed, and you’re ready to speed off.
This beginner-level cycling route will take you past scenic parts of Shanghai – some of which overlap with parts of the former concession – and through the doors of six bakeries of repute.
Total distance: 5.55km (3.4 miles)
Total time: about 1½ hours (with a 10-minute stop per bakery)
“Classic” chestnut cakes at Kaisiling. Photo: Sammi Sowerby
1 Kaisiling
1888 Xinzha Road, Jing’an
Your tour begins near the Xinzha Road bus stop, served by at least six bus routes. Kaisiling’s branch is well positioned: Shanghai’s older residents are the heritage bakery’s biggest fans.
About a century old, the Kaisiling brand is a piece of Shanghai history, appearing in Ang Lee’s steamy 2007 film Lust, Caution and the pages of Eileen Chang’s 1950 novel Half a Lifelong Romance.
Kaisiling’s cream horn makes many Shanghai seniors misty-eyed, as does its fresh cream cake. During our visit, the matronly cashier laughs when I ask if the chestnut cakes are wanghong (internet famous) and says, “No, they are classic and there’s a difference.”
What to get: chestnut cakes, cream horns and fresh cream cakes
When to go: daily, 8.30am to 8.30pm
Basdban’s pastries are “among the best” the writer has had in Shanghai. Photo: Xiaohongshu / @Basdban
2 Basdban
546 Yuyuan Road, Jing’an
This space-age cafe, with its silver reflective surfaces, is overrun with phone-toting influencers, but its pastries are among the best I’ve had in Shanghai.
The espresso here is delicious fuel, and in addition to offering almond and oat milk options, Basdban also does a good hot chocolate – none of that cheap, powdered stuff diluted in hot water.
What to get: viennoiseries and sweet sandos
When to go: Monday to Thursday, 8.30am to 6pm; Friday to Sunday, 9am to 7pm
Ruby’s butterfly cookies. Photo: Sammi Sowerby
3 Ruby’s
375 Huashan Road, Jing’an
Another heritage bakery, Ruby’s stocks similar offerings to those found at Kaisiling, but where the latter has German roots, the former identifies as a Sino-British bakery, where “traditional England flavour blends with Shanghai tastes”.
Pile your tray high with palmiers, cream buns sporting toupees of spicy meat floss, at least one Napoleon, and Ruby’s famed chestnut cakes (perhaps compare them with those at Kaisiling to see which you prefer).
What to get: butterfly cookies, chestnut cakes, cream buns and cakes, and Napoleons
When to go: daily, 8.30am to 7.30pm
4 MBD
785-3 Huashan Road, Jing’an
An acronym for “magnificent bread destination”, MBD needs little marketing. Queues snake down the street on weekend mornings as habitués wait to buy ciabatta.
Studded with black beans and pine nuts, the ciabatta is good enough to eat on its own.
On the off chance that it is out of ciabatta, try one of the bakery’s Sinicised treats; the pepper and chocolate pastry or the umami seaweed bun.
What to get: ciabatta and other inventive pastries
When to go: daily except Tuesdays, 8.30am to 5.30pm
Fill your chouquettes with delicious ice cream at Luneurs. Photo: Luneurs
5 Luneurs
888 Huashan Road, Changning
Cultish casual fitness club Luneurs Tribe imbues a sense of esprit de corps among its members, who get together twice a week to sweat it out before rewarding themselves with pastries.
“In the beginning, we were just a group of colleagues and friends who started running every Wednesday night,” says Nick Ni, community manager at Luneurs. “Then some customers joined us. We’ve since tried cycling, wall climbing and hiking.
“We find it’s a really good way to connect, not just with our customers but also internally, within our company.”
Anyone and everyone can join, so contact the bakery if the social aspect appeals. If not, sample the pastries or unbelievably good ice cream. Better yet, do both by filling chouquettes with ice cream.
What to get: viennoiseries, patisseries and ice cream
When to go: daily, 8am to 10pm
TonTon’s bakery counter.
6 TonTon
178 Yongkang Road, Xuhui
Thanks to its affiliation with popular wine bar Mavis and fine bistro Netta, TonTon had tongues wagging before it even opened its doors late last year, and it lived up to the hype.
TonTon is breaking the mould by putting huge and hearty offerings front and centre on its pastry counter in a city that typically prefers dainty delicacies. Think brick-like babkas (braided bread) spiced with cinnamon powder from Yunnan province, beef wheels the size of small frisbees and sandwiches that guarantee leftovers..
What to get: cinnamon rolls, doughnuts, pies and massive sandwiches
When to go: daily, 10am to 6.30pm
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