To make a living, Syrians risk lives to collect truffles

A booth selling truffles is seen in the central province of Hama, Syria, April 17, 2024. – Photo by Xinhua

HAMA – In the rugged expanse of Syrian desert, where the scars of war still linger, a risky yet profitable venture arose several years ago amidst the struggles of the impoverished Syrians: truffle hunting in fields riddled with undetected landmines.

Ahmed Al Faraj, a vegetable merchant, described the truffle as a natural bounty that sprouts without cultivation, valued for their seasonal availability and exceptional taste.

The truffles emerge from the desert soil as a result of thunder and lightning, with the harvest season spanning from February to March, extending into October and November, Al Faraj explained.

For locals, he said, the allure of truffles lies not only in their flavour but also in their economic value.

This year, the prices of truffles have tripled compared to a year before, with the cheapest variety starting at 100,000 Syrian pounds for 1 kg (approximately 13 U.S. dollars).

However, the region where these expensive ingredients grow is fraught with danger.

In the rural area of the Salamiyah region in Syria’s central province of Hama, every truffle harvest season sees people losing their lives. These individuals died due to undetected landmine explosions or being shot by remnants of ultra-radical groups like the Islamic State (IS) in the desert region.

Yet, the frequent occurrences of fatalities have not dampened the locals’ enthusiasm for picking the prized delicacies.

Abdullah Hameed Al-Nuaiman, a 54-year-old farmer from Salamiyah, stressed the importance of truffle hunting for Syrians as a way to make a living. Despite the risks of encountering landmines or being kidnapped, Al-Nuaiman and his companions brave the desert, enduring vast distances and perilous conditions in their quest for truffles.

“We are afraid,” Al-Nuaiman admitted, while recounting the arduous journey that required daily round trips of up to 250 km to reach specific destinations in search of these coveted treasures.

Mohammed Daya Al-Mohammed, another farmer from Salamiyah, echoes Al-Nuaiman’s sentiments, highlighting the desperation driving many to risk their lives for financial gain. “Money is scarce,” he complained, “and we have reached a very difficult time when everything is expensive.”

“If I have work, I will not go out to collect wild plants, especially at this time,” he told Xinhua.

In March, the Syrian Observatory for Human Rights reported that 80 civilians died due to hidden landmines in Syria, most of them during truffle hunting expeditions.

Christelle Loupforest, the head of the UN Mine Action Service in Geneva, said recently that landmines, remnants of explosive conflict, and improvised explosive devices were causing fatalities and injuries, particularly in regions affected by armed conflicts, with Syria being the most heavily impacted.

“Syria is a country that I would put on top of the list because if I look at the number of casualties, it still has a huge amount of casualties,” she said. – XINHUA