We try the Peak District gastro pub named among UK's best

There are plenty of pubs, restaurants and cafes in Derbyshire that offer fantastic food. From curry houses in caves to nine-course tasting menus, our county is filled with some lovely options for eating out.

One of the most revered establishments in the High Peak is the Pack Horse pub in Hayfield. Acting as one of the western gateways to the Peak District, Hayfield is a lovely village perched right on the national park border.

The pub was named in the UK’s top 20 gastro pubs last year – so it is safe to say it has a pretty decent reputation. To put the popular pub to the test, the Manchester Evening News sent one of their reporters to sample some of the cuisine. Below is what she thought of the establishment.

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On New Year’s Eve, there was talk of an amble around the Kinder Reservoir or climb up to Lantern Pike, both of which you can start from Hayfield. But once we had parked up, the walking boots seemed to have miraculously disappeared.

To cut a long story short, we ended up just going straight to the pub. The thing is though, The Pack Horse isn’t just any pub.

Even on a miserable day, where the drizzle really soaks through, this traditional stone building with its light grey window panes and twinkly Christmas trees bolted on, is still beautiful. But, what lies inside is even more impressive.

Run by couple Luke Payne (behind the stoves) and Emma Daniels (front-of-house), who took over seven years ago, it started off with all the classics – fish and chips, burgers, you name it, they did it. But over time they refined the menu, putting quality produce front and centre.

Beef comes from down the road, fish is sourced from some of the finest North Sea and Scottish day-boat catches, and only the best – and most seasonal – vegetables will adorn your plate. It’s not pretentious though, and it’s never lost its roots, you’ll still find real ales behind the bar, perfectly accompanied by their popular Manchester egg, as well as regular quiz nights and curry clubs.

I’ve had their roast with all the trimmings before and it’s to die for, but it’s definitely at the pricier end. But I’ll qualify that and say that you’re not just paying for a roast here, it’s an experience. Defined by some very impressive classic cooking that takes pub grub to new starry heights, and top-quality produce to boot – you really do get what you pay for.

No one needs reminding of the crisis facing hospitality at the moment, but only a few days into the New Year we’ve already lost some stalwarts including legendary vegetarian restaurant Greens. Energy bills, rising costs of ingredients and in some cases crippling rent changes have made it near impossible for many to survive.

The Chatsworth Estate beef sirloin

Put in that context, let’s celebrate those still plugging away at it. A gateway to the Peak District and a gateway to top-tier gastronomy, there’s good reason The Pack Horse was named one of the top 50 gastropubs in the UK last year, appears on the Michelin Inspectors list of recommendations, and is namechecked by The Good Food Guide and Harden’s respective lists too.

Crossing the threshold, you’re immediately welcomed into a warm and contemporary space, but crucially, it still feels like a proper pub. Those donning muddy boots and accompanied by wet dogs grab a seat by the cosy open fireplace, while those of us who conveniently left both of theirs at home sidle up to their bar before taking our seats in front of the open kitchen.

Never have I seen a group of chefs look so relaxed. Perfectly calm, and not once breaking out into a sweat, they gracefully pass one another as hefty slices of beef are carved, pies pulled from the oven and extra servings of gravy poured into tiny jugs.

While we wait we order a small plate of Cobble Lane Charcuterie (£14), a patchwork of pink cured meats spanning jagged disks of peppery salami, soft and tender Bresaola and perfectly marbled Coppa. Served simply with no accompaniment, you might initially miss some added carbs, but when you see the size of the mains, you’ll be glad you kept schtum.

It’s a toss up between the Chatsworth Estate beef Sirloin (£25) and cheese (Baron Bigod) pie (£24), so we go for both and decide to share. Because it’s not Sunday, the beef is slightly pared back, so it doesn’t have all the usual suspects alongside it, but instead bubble & squeak, parsnip, a Yorkshire pudding and plenty of gravy.

The chocolate and peanut butter delice

Arguably better for it, it lets the silky smooth beef shine. Served pink, the knife glides through before I take it on a tour of my plate, fixing a bit of crispy parsnip to the fork and mopping it up with the irresistibly rich gravy.

Bubble & Squeak has always been a favourite of mine, and here it doesn’t disappoint, each mouthful better than the last. A rustic looking Yorkshire pudding rounds things off nicely, and leads nicely into sampling the pie.

The pastry has been carefully pinched and sewn up ready for the ovens, and its points, similar to the spikes of a crown, feel very regal. A glossy exterior gives way to perfectly formed shelves of dauphinoise and caramelised onion, while a pool of cheese swirls around it. A very decadent dish to mark the beginning of the new year, and I highly doubt anything will beat it.

Make space for dessert even if you share. A slither of chocolate and peanut butter delice(£9), with chocolate ice cream, glistens under the light before being devoured in mere seconds. The bitterness of the chocolate mousse paired with sweet and chewy base, and seriously smooth ice cream is divine, there really are no other words for it.