The new menswear designers shaking up London Fashion Week


By now, you know the drill.

Throw a pin down on a glamourous (preferably central) spot somewhere in the city. Send for the fashionati. And then point 30 or so models down a catwalk, frowns recommended.

This is the usual feel for London Fashion Week, but a group of upcoming menswear designers said no to the conventional, and took it upon themselves to bring some fun to a structure that, post-Covid, sometimes felt tired. Immersive runways, here we come.

Labrum, Saul Nash and S.S. Daley all presented in the British Fashion Council’s TikTok Showspace, the Selfridges based hub for shows this week. And all three turned away from the cold forth wall, leaning on live bands, singing, theatre and dance to deepen the narratives behind their SS22 collections. Catch up with each below:


Backstage at Labrum (imaxtree)

Ask anyone who made it to Foday Dumbuya’s stellar Labrum show, and they’ll agree it whipped up the most rapturous applause of the week. Guests entered a room packed full of drums, trombones and ngonis, the traditional guitar of Mali, uncertain of what to expect from the brand bridging British tailoring with the designer’s Sierra Leonean heritage.

The 16-strong Balimaya Project collective, who mix West-African folkloric music and jazz, played centre stage. The singer Thabo swooned around the runway. And the audience left a concrete room concerned with a Lover Islander sat front row, transported to the world of Dumbuya.

Balimaya Project performing at Labrum (imaxtree)

“To understand West African stories we wanted these components to ignite the audience’s interest and get people excited about the history that we are talking about,” the designer says. “The stories we tell are not often heard, and don’t have an existing presence in our education system or media, so it’s important, when we present them, that people are immersed in the spirit.”

This content is not available due to your privacy preferences.Update your settings here to see it.

Printed fabric air dried in Sierra Leone was crafted into peaked lapelled, double-breasted blazers and shorts, worn with towering headpieces inspired by wrapping techniques synonymous with traditional West African looks.

And Ibrahim Kamara, editor of Dazed and Confused, brought his touch of magic styling to the show. “Our parents came from the same tribe, Temne, one of the oldest in Sierra Leone and we are passionate about telling stories about the place that we grew up in,” Dumbuya says. “He pushes boundaries. He encourages me to work outside my comfort zone.”

Headpieces wrapped backstage at Labrum (imaxtree)

Saul Nash

It was back to teenage years at Saul Nash. Or how he remembered his, in “fragments.” The ground was covered in gym-floor-lines-meet-road-markings and models sat on familiar red London bus benches, with Nike backpacks slung over shoulders.

Saul Nash SS22 photographed by Rowben Lantion (Rowben Lantion)

The lights went down and a scene came to life as models came on, and stayed on. The boys chatted, laughed, and helped each other change in and out of Nash’s signature sportswear.

This season it came in the form of short nylon shorts, sliced waterproof jackets with contrast colour toggles and see-through mesh vests in greys, blue and a blast of neon green. Knee-high socks spelled out his name, and reversible cagoules featured warped prints of his 16+ Oyster card.

Saul Nash SS22 photographed by Rowben Lantion (Rowben Lantion)

“Whilst I was at school, the act of waiting for the bus was an everyday ritual. It became a symbol of my youth,” Nash says. “I’m a strong believer that immersive shows are key to helping people connect with a story being told about a moment in time. Being able to give my audience an insight into these fragments of my past is very important to me.”

This content is not available due to your privacy preferences.Update your settings here to see it.

S.S. Daley

S.S. Daley by Helen Murray (S.S. Daley by Helen Murray)

Steven Stokey Daley put on a show. And a three part play, devised and performed by the National Youth Theatre, the organisation where this Liverpudlian designer had a coming of age at 16. And for his debut live show (he graduated from the University of Westminster mid-Covid, in 2020) Daley showed no sign of sticking to runway tradition.

But tradition was part of the conversation. Long stockings worn with pleated, printed and bleached shorts, ballooning sleeve shirts under V-neck sweater vests and gently distorted pin stripe suits unpicked private school codes through working-class eyes.

This content is not available due to your privacy preferences.Update your settings here to see it.

There were boarding dormitories, where pyjama shirts had paisley prints taken from the designer’s Nan’s wallpaper, short shorts and body paint for the rugby pitch, and a Twenties Bright Young Things romanticism in the floral boater hats that ran through it all.

“It was really exciting to see the clothes in a narrative without them being costumes,” Daley says of his collection styled by Harry Lambert, the man who launched his garments from college onto Harry Styles for the ‘Golden’ music video. And what does this young designer want to do with the stage he’s been given? Share.

S.S. Daley by Helen Murray (S.S. Daley by Helen Murray)

“I partnered with the National Youth Theatre because it’s had a really difficult year, and I’ve had a gorgeous opportunity to share a platform with a group of theatre kids, theatre goers and theatre creators,” Daley says.

“Hopefully this has altered people’s mind-sets and viewpoints on what fashion shows can be, and help value performance and theatre as well.”

See the gallery above for the best 10 menswear looks at London Fashion Week SS22

Internet Explorer Channel Network
News Related


Best Spiderman Toy

© Credits: Image: M&B Little boy pretending to be Spiderman Marvel’s iconic Spider-Man has entertained generation after generation, and with so many films, TV shows, and comic books, it’s no ... Read more »

Tottenham boss Nuno admits "anything is possible" with Dele Alli after Burnley snub

Tottenham manager Nuno Espirito Santo has explained his decision to leave Dele Alli and Harry Winks out of the squad which faced Burnley on Wednesday night in the Carabao Cup. ... Read more »

Brexit worse for the UK economy than Covid pandemic, OBR says

© AFP/Getty Images The UK has vowed to retaliate if Paris goes ahead with a threat to impose sanctions in an escalation of a row over fishing boats. The impact ... Read more »

Tambahan 50 sen bil Astro di Pos Malaysia untuk tingkat kualiti perkhidmatan, kata menteri

© Provided by MalaysiaNow Menteri Komunikasi dan Multimedia Annuar Musa hari ini berkata tambahan bayaran 50 sen bil Astro di kaunter Pos Malaysia adalah bagi meningkatkan kualiti perkhidmatan selain mengambil ... Read more »

Pemindahan sisa radioaktif di kilang Lynas boleh disegerakan

© Provided by Sinar Harian KUALA LUMPUR – Kerajaan masih berpendirian bahawa pemindahan sisa radioaktif yang terkumpul di kilang Lynas, Gebeng boleh disegerakan dengan syarat mempercepatkan pembinaan kemudahan pelupusan kekal ... Read more »

Richa Chadha: Was a blessing to be shooting opposite Ali for first time

© IANS Richa Chadha. Mumbai, Oct 28 (IANS) Actress Richa Chadha will be seen sharing screen space with her beau Ali Fazal in the upcoming series ‘Call My Agent: Bollywood’. ... Read more »

Active COVID-19 cases in country lowest in 243 days

With 16,156 people testing positive for coronavirus infection in a day, India’s total tally of COVID-19 cases rose to 3,42,31,809, while the active cases declined to 1,60,989, the lowest in ... Read more »

Adam Levine addresses fan grabbing him during Maroon 5 performance

© IANS Adam Levine.(photo:wikipedia) Los Angeles, Oct 28 (IANS) American pop-rock band Maroon 5 frontman Adam Levine has talked about the incident when a fan jumped on stage and grabbed ... Read more »

IRCTC zooms 15% as stock trades ex-split

New Delhi: Shares of IRCTC soared as much as 15 per cent during the early trade on Thursday following the division of shares on the bourses. The railway ticketing monopoly ... Read more »

Schlechtes Sehvermögen: Haie verwechseln bei Angriffen Surfer mit Robben

Angriffe von Haien auf Menschen sind sehr selten. Und wenn es zu solchen Attacken kommt, dann handelt es sich in der Regel um eine Verwechslung. © Bereitgestellt von Blick Haie ... Read more »

NHS staff morale plummets as medics brace themselves for ‘worst winter ever'

Staff morale is plummeting across the NHS according to doctors who are bracing themselves for what they believe could be the worst winter the health service has ever faced. © ... Read more »

Milchreis mit Birnenkompott und gerösteten Haselnüssen

© Bereitgestellt von SevenCooks Quick Infos: Vegetarisch 533 kcal Einfach 25 Minuten Soulfood! Wärmender Milchreis mit Birnenkompott und gerösteten Haselnüssen. Ob für Groß oder Klein mit dem süßen, fruchtigen Kompott ... Read more »

Straumann erhöht Prognose nach starkem dritten Quartal erneut

© KEYSTONE/GEORGIOS KEFALAS Straumann hat ein starkes drittes Quartal 2021 hingelegt. Der Dentalimplantat-Hersteller steigerte den Umsatz erneut. Für den Rest des Jahres hebt das Management nun die Prognose an. Konkret ... Read more »

What's the right time for women to begin consuming folic acid?

Folic acid, a synthetic form of the nutrient folate, is a B-vitamin required for healthy cell development. It aids in the formation of healthy red blood cells and helps make ... Read more »

Dropping another big name and more issues Manchester United must fix vs Tottenham

The defence A clip of Tony Soprano telling his nephew, Christopher, “You’re right. I have no defence” has been circulating among some Manchester United supporters, with Tony doubling for Ole ... Read more »

Levante UD-Atlético Madrid: Eyeing the top

© Photo by Denis Doyle/Getty Images Koke needs one goal to tie Paulo Futre on Atlético’s all-time scoring chart. Reigning Spanish champions Atlético Madrid can join the party atop LaLiga ... Read more »

Bloomberg report 'unfair' for lowest ranked Philippines —gov't COVID-19 recovery team

The Philippine government’s COVID-19 recovery team has called as ‘unfair’ the Bloomberg report that tagged the country as the “worst place to be” during the pandemic, an official said Thursday. ... Read more »

Hunter Henry set to face Chargers for first time after “bittersweet” departure for Patriots

© Provided by NBC Sports New England Patriots tight end Hunter Henry was eager to join his new team this offseason when he signed with the Patriots after spending his ... Read more »

Man accused of splashing hot water on woman, harassing her daughter

Warning: Readers may find some of the detailed descriptions in the content of this article disturbing. SINGAPORE — A man was charged on Thursday (28 October) for splashing hot water ... Read more »

‘Paano ba magpahinga?': UP Psych Services give tips

© Provided by InterAksyon The University of the Philippines Psychosocial Services (UPD PsycServ) gave advice on how to rest amid the still ongoing COVID-19 pandemic following the World Mental Health ... Read more »

Why You Should Watch "The King's Affection," the New Trending Netflix K-Drama

© Provided by There’s a new K-drama on our radar, and if you’re subscribed to Netflix or you’re just an ardent follower of anything K-related, then you’ve most likely ... Read more »

Climate change and human error shrivel Greek agriculture

© Provided by Al Jazeera Cotton is Thessaly’s main cash crop but when farmers cannot find affordable water they abandon it in favour of dry ones such as wheat and ... Read more »

Ems wächst weiter kräftig

© KEYSTONE/GIAN EHRENZELLER Ems-Chemie hat in den ersten neun Monaten 2021 den Umsatz deutlich gesteigert. Doch der weltweite Chipmangel belastete zuletzt die Autobauer – die wichtigste Kundengruppe von Ems. Wie ... Read more »

Countdown's Rachel Riley Admits There Hasn't Been ‘Much Team Bonding' With New Host Anne Robinson

Countdown’s Rachel Riley has admitted there hasn’t been “much team bonding” since Anne Robinson joined the Channel 4 show. Anne, who previously presented The Weakest Link, took over hosting duties ... Read more »

Siblings describe witnessing savage murder of their brother in Houston horror house

Gloria Williams and her boyfriend Brian Coulter were both charged in the death of Williams’ 8-year-old son Kendrick Lee and the neglect of Williams’ other children. Harris County Sheriff’s Office ... Read more »

Direktoriumsmitglied Andrea Maechler: Nationalbank will Investments nicht nur nach Umweltkriterien

Die Schweizerische Nationalbank (SNB) lehnt Investitionen allein nach Umweltkriterien ab. Die SNB habe nicht das Ziel, die Welt grüner zu machen, sagte Direktoriumsmitglied Andrea Maechler am Mittwoch an einer Veranstaltung ... Read more »

ADNEC launches expansion plans in London and Abu Dhabi

© Motivate Publishing ADNEC The Abu Dhabi National Exhibitions Company (ADNEC) has said that it would expand its existing facilities in both London and Abu Dhabi. The expansion plans include ... Read more »

Hiroshima nuclear bomb survivor Sunao Tsuboi dies at 96, read about his incredible journey

© Provided by DNA Hiroshima atomic bomb attack survivor and Japanese campaigner against nuclear weapons, Sunao Tsuboi has died at the age of 96. Tsuboi died on October 24 in a hospital in ... Read more »

J&K Police say terrorist out to kill shopkeeper shot dead

© Provided by Hindustan Times Five migrant workers were among 11 civilians killed in targeted attacks on civilians in Kashmir this month. (HT Photo) The Jammu and Kashmir Police on Thursday ... Read more »

Rickshaw puller in Uttar Pradesh's Mathura gets Income Tax notice for Rs 3 crore, claims fraud

© Provided by Zee News New Delhi: A rickshaw puller has approached the police in Mathura district after he was served a notice by the Income Tax (IT) department, asking ... Read more »

WWII Marine is laid to rest in Arlington National Cemetery almost 78 years after his remains went missing

A Marine who died in World War II was finally laid to rest in Arlington National Cemetery Wednesday after his remains had been unaccounted for since his death at 19. ... Read more »

Britain will launch Cop26 in Glasgow while taxpayers are still funding fossil fuels

© Provided by City AM On Monday, the parliamentary committee for International Development  demanded the government stop investing in the fossil fuel sector, including through its private-sector arm, the CDC ... Read more »

Life-size lion sculptures designed by Ronnie Wood, John Cleese and Noel Fielding to go under the hammer

The colourfully-decorated sculptures are being sold in aid of UK conservation charity Tusk, which has the Duke of Cambridge as its patron. © Scottish rugby heroes Gavin and Scott Hastings ... Read more »

'Securing peace in the Korean Peninsula remains priority issue'

SECURING peace in the Korean Peninsula is still a “priority issue”, President Rodrigo Duterte said, as he renewed his call to fellow leaders of the Association of Southeast Asia Nations ... Read more »

NA VCT LCQ postponed—again

© Provided by Dot Esports A series of unfortunate events has led to the NA VCT Last Chance Qualifier being postponed again. The matchup between Cloud9 Blue and Rise was ... Read more »

Man who died in plane crash was serial killer who murdered at least 3 South Florida women

FORT LAUDERDALE, Fla. — He beat their bodies and stuffed them in luggage tossing them onto the roadside as litter. Another woman who also worked the streets as a prostitute ... Read more »

Alec Baldwin shooting: How live ammo got on Rust set

© Copyright 2021 The Associated Press. All rights reserved Prop Firearm Movie Set – Copyright 2021 The Associated Press. All rights reserved Light from a high afternoon sun slanted through ... Read more »

Desi groom is excited to get his makeup done for wedding. Bride's reaction is now a viral video

Video features a groom getting ready for the wedding. (Image courtesy: Instagram) You must have watched several videos in which the bride is getting ready for her wedding. However, have ... Read more »

Diwali 2021 Date in India: When is Deepawali 2021? Know About Laxmi and Ganesh Puja Muhurat, Puja Vidhi and Significance

© Provided by News18 Diwali 2021 Date in India: When is Deepawali 2021? Know About Laxmi and Ganesh Puja Muhurat, Puja Vidhi and Significance Diwali has a special significance in ... Read more »

Did Gauri Khan use this popular Bollywood trick to meet son Aryan Khan in Arthur Road jail?

© Provided by With each passing day and each bail plea hearing, Shah Rukh Khan and Gauri Khan are getting more and more eager to get their son Aryan ... Read more »
On you will find lots of free English exam practice materials to help you improve your English skills: grammar, listening, reading, writing, ielts, toeic