The Must-Stop Restaurants in Portland, Maine, According to a Local Chef

After over a decade working in New York City restaurants, chef Colin Wyatt moved to Portland. Here, Wyatt shares his favorite restaurants in his new home town.

the must-stop restaurants in portland, maine, according to a local chef

Courtesy of SoPo Seafood Market & Restaurant

Portland may be a small city home to fewer than 70,000 residents, but its culinary scene packs a powerful punch. This isn’t news for chef Colin Wyatt, who lived there before moving to New York City where he spent 12 years working for some of the most acclaimed restaurants in the world, including Eleven Madison Park and Daniel. But after relocating to Portland with his family during the pandemic, he noticed a big change.

“The restaurant scene [in Portland] was excellent 20 years ago, but I would not say it was very diverse,” he says. “And now coming back and having been here for about three years, there are just so many more dining options. I think that’s because a lot of people are coming in from other places … and bringing those experiences, thoughts, and ideas back to Portland. And that’s something that I think has been excellent for the food scene.”

Shortly after moving to town, Wyatt opened Twelve, a modern fine dining eatery housed in an historic building on Portland’s waterfront. Wyatt pays homage to Maine’s landscapes and natural beauty through seasonal ingredients and fresh seafood. It is the quality of the ingredients that, among other things, shines through, and that’s a common thread among many of the dining establishments in Portland nowadays.

“The chefs here really care a lot about the food that they serve. I really do feel like people here strive exceptionally hard to put out the best possible product,” he adds.

Headed to Portland soon? Below, Wyatt gave us the scoop on his favorite dining spots in and around Maine’s largest city.

the must-stop restaurants in portland, maine, according to a local chef

Courtesy of SoPo Seafood Market & Restaurant

SoPo Seafood Market & Restaurant

Wyatt’s go-to spot for fresh seafood for his restaurant is this Knightville market/raw bar, selling locally caught and harvested fish and shellfish. He also recommends stopping by for chilled Maine oysters and a beer. “Whatever it is, I just know that it’s always going to be top quality because I buy fish for my family and the restaurant [here], and I know it’s amazing,” Wyatt says.

He leans towards seasonal catch when it comes to family dinners. “If it’s halibut season,” he adds, “then I am serving halibut. I love grilling it and marinating [it] in a pesto, chimichurri, or whatever it might be — just lots of fresh green herbs, olive oil, and lemon juice.”

Bar Futo

Wyatt describes Bar Futo in Portand’s Old Port as a “Japanese pub-style restaurant.” With its extensive list of sake, Japanese whisky, and hand-crafted cocktails, it is indeed the perfect spot for an evening get-together with friends. But Bar Futo also specializes in binchotan charcoal grilled skewers and small plates of delicious vegetable dishes like crispy eggplant with spicy garlic miso and shrilled shishitos.

“Chicken skewers, fish, different meats cooked over charcoal? Sign me up. They have an incredible tofu dish that combines a little bit of Jewish heritage into it that I love,” Wyatt explains, referring to a bowl of dashi broth prepared with chicken fat with lightly fried tofu, topped with an egg yolk.

“It’s so savory. It’s warm, especially in the wintertime. I would say it’s probably one of my favorite soups. I can eat that all the time,” he says.

Tipo

This cool and casual Italian spot in Portland’s Back Cove, owned by Chris and Paige Gould, also behind Portland’s popular Central Provisions, is Wyatt’s go-to neighborhood restaurant for family meals.

“I bring my six-year-old daughter and she gets what she wants. I can bring my parents, they can get what they want. Everybody is happy when we go there, and it’s just a big hit in our house,” Wyatt says, adding that his daughter’s go-to dish is the meatballs (“Good luck sharing that with her.”) while he goes for the cauliflower dip with tahini and a Negroni.

Wood-fired pizzas, fresh pasta, red-sauce staples, and plates of fried calamari and Chianti braised short rib are also a highlight at Tipo, which often switches up its menu and focuses on showcasing local ingredients.

Maine Beer Co.

The pandemic wasn’t easy on anyone, including Wyatt. When he moved to the Portland area with his family, they often went to Maine Beer Co., which had repurposed the outdoor area in front of the brewery into a heated covered patio with seating.

“At that time, it meant a lot to have that. Being locked up in a house all the time, especially in Maine in the winter, it can be pretty dark. So it felt really good to be able to go out and feel like you could be in a restaurant. It was that great moment to get out, drink great beer, and have delicious pizza.” Wyatt explains.

Maine Beer Co., which is located about a 20-minute drive northeast of Portland in Freeport, is still his go-to place for well-made craft brews and locally sourced pub-style food. Now in its 11th year, the brewery was founded by brothers David and Daniel Kleban and makes “the best beer in the state,” according to Wyatt.

“I am not a huge IPA drinker, but I love their IPAs,” he adds. “I really liked the styles of beer they do. They’re not overpowering, and they’re not super strong.”

Read the original article on Food & Wine.

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