For Indians on the Great Masai Mara Safari, 150% hike in fees is no worry

In the Indian holiday calendar, July, August and September are usually dead months. The Instagrammable Northern Hemisphere countries are all reeling from a heat wave and summer vacation is a thing of the recent past. So, when it’s stuffy and sweaty and humid here, where can you escape to?

Think millions of wildebeest making a precarious crossing, pride of lions watching with the utmost attention, and crocodiles lying in wait in the meandering Mara. Think miles after miles of the savannah where the sun paints the sky in the brightest of colours come twilight. Think the snow-tipped Mt Kilimanjaro with tuskers at its feet. And think The Lion King or Alia Bhatt and Ranbir Kapoor’s dreamy proposal.

Kenya.

Irene Katumo, the regional marketing manager of Kenya Tourism Board told the media in January 2023 that Kenya saw an increase of 93.2% Indian tourists in 2022, as compared to 2021, after a drastic pandemic slump. Kenya saw 1.2 lakh Indian tourists in 2019, which went down to 42,159 in 2021. In 2022, almost double that number of Indians made their way to the shores of Kenya.

Elephants and Mt. Kilimanjaro in the distance in Kenya. (Photo: Getty Images)

Where

Kenya, which lies in East Africa, is unique for its geographical location. Half of Kenya lies in the Northern Hemisphere and half of it in the Southern. The equator slices this country into nearly two equal halves.

So, when the mercury climbs high up north, it is pleasant; even chilly; in this part of the world. While January to March mark the hottest months, June and July are the coldest.

How to go

Nairobi, Kenya’s capital, has direct flights from both Delhi and Mumbai.

Indigo connects Mumbai with Nairobi twice daily.

From Delhi and Mumbai: While Air India flies a Delhi-Nairobi-Delhi thrice a week, Indigo connects Mumbai with Nairobi twice daily.

A direct flight from Delhi to Nairobi takes 7.5 hours.

Air India flies a Delhi-Nairobi-Delhi thrice a week.

There are also two daily flights from Mumbai to Nairobi on Kenya Airways.

Prices: The Air India prices usually hover around Rs 40,000 if you book a month or more before your trip. Indigo, true to its low-cost carrier promise, has a return trip priced around Rs 30,000. Mumbai-Nairobi round-trip fares on Kenya Airways are in the Rs 40,000-50,000 range.

How long: A direct flight from Delhi to Nairobi takes 7.5 hours. From Mumbai, the flight duration is a little shorter: around 6 hours.

What to see

Nairobi: The capital of Kenya is usually the starting point of all trips to Kenya.

At the Giraffe Centre in Nairobi. Photo: Ananya Bhattacharya

Among the places to see here are the Nairobi National Park, the world-famous David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (book yourself a tour months in advance because tickets get sold out pretty quickly) to see orphaned elephants and rhinos, the Giraffe Centre, Maasai Market, Nairobi National Museum, and the Railway Museum.

Lake Naivasha: On your way to Masai Mara from Nairobi, stop at Lake Naivasha for a boat ride and lunch. The drive to Masai Mara is through the Great Rift Valley.

Masai Mara: No what-to-see list here is complete without the biggest attraction in Kenya, the Masai Mara national park.

Every year, when the herds of wildebeest make the crossing from Serengeti in Tanzania to Masai Mara in Kenya, millions of tourists flock to the national park to see this natural wonder.

Aptly titled the World’s Greatest Road Show, the migration involves innumerable herbivores moving from Tanzania to Kenya in search of sweet grass. These wildebeest, zebra, elephants and other ungulates make the mighty crossing from one bank of the Mara to the other every July-August.

These months, understandably, comprise peak season in Masai Mara.

There are also numerous cheetahs that prowl around the grassland, waiting for a deer to pounce on. (Photo: Getty Images)

The 1,510 sq km area of Masai Mara provides food aplenty for these herbivore guests every year. On this side of the Mara river, the predators have a stupendous feast during these months. The prey far outnumber these carnivores.

Wildebeest crossing the river Mara. Photo: Unsplash/Rohan Reddy

Masai Mara is home to the big five: the African elephant, African lion, African rhino, African buffalo, and the elusive leopard. There are also numerous cheetahs that prowl around the grassland, waiting for a deer to pounce on. Crocodiles dot every inch of the river Mara.

An elephant herd crosses over from Serengeti to Masai Mara. Photo: Ananya Bhattacharya

If you opt for a hot-air balloon ride (dawn or dusk), you will be greeted with sweeping views of the savannah from the air, while the safari jeeps ply around on ground.

Enjoy sweeping views of the savannah from the air on a hot-air balloon ride. (Photo: Getty Images)

The safaris here run from dawn to dusk. They are organised by your resort or camp in Masai Mara.

Sanjeev Kumar, manager, Muthu Keekorok Lodge Masai Mara, tells India Today, “The pandemic brought Kenya’s tourism to its knees just like any other destination, and we have been busy rebuilding since 2021. There has been a 14% increase in Indian tourists to Kenya in 2023 as compared to 2022, and the numbers are rising. Keeping the influx in mind, numerous hotels and lodges are attracting Indian visitors with options of vegetarian and non-vegetarian Indian dishes; including even no-onion or no-garlic food options!”

“Indians are wildlife lovers, and Masai Mara offers an unparalleled wildlife experience. The sheer abundance of wildlife in the region provides ample opportunities for close encounters and memorable sightings,” says Kumar.

Where to stay: There are numerous resorts and camps in Masai Mara, suited for every budget. There’s Governor’s Camp in the park, Mara Siligi Camp, Eagle View Camp, Mara Serena Safari Camp, Ol Seki Hemingway’s Mara Camp, etc.

Absolute high-end properties include Mahali Mzuri, Sala’s Camp, &Beyond Bateleur Camp, Angama Mara, Sanctuary Olonana Safari Lodge, and Mara Plains Camp.

A leopard in Masai Mara. Photo: Unsplash/Jordi Rubies

Entry fees: From January 1, 2024, Masai Mara entry fees stand hiked to USD 100 (Rs 8,301) per person per day for non-resident adults. From July 1, 2024, which is the peak season, non-resident adults will have to pay USD 200 (Rs 16,600) per head per day. Children up to 8 years travel free. For children aged 9-17, the entrance fees are USD 50 per child per day.

Till last year, the park entry fees were USD 80 (Rs 6,641) per person per day.

However, this has hardly dented the number of visitors planning to visit Masai Mara.

Rohit Khattar, founder of travel company Your Travel Genie, who takes groups of travellers to Kenya every year, says, “July-August-September are the busiest travel months because photographers from all over the world are in Masai Mara for the wildebeest migration.”

Rohit Khattar

Founder, Your Travel Genie

Sanjeev Kumar, meanwhile, thinks the increase in park entrance fees should happen gradually.

“It is too early to say whether it will make wildlife lovers rethink or worry about the increase to USD 200 a night from July to January. It means a couple will be expected to pay USD 400 a day. Visitors’ average stay is two days, so it will mean USD 800 for entry, in addition to the accommodation, meals and game drives. The overall budget of visitors might be disturbed,” says Kumar.

“Let me also make it very clear that we are not against the increase in park fees, but the steep hike from USD 80 to USD 200 will certainly keep a few visitors out of reach,” says Sanjeev Kumar.

However, July is still five months away.

What else: While in Masai Mara, take a few hours out to visit one of the Maasai villages to see firsthand how one of the oldest tribes in the world lives. The Maasai are known for their courage and their cows; and you will see both in abundance here. Pick up a few souvenirs while you’re in the village.

Amboseli National Park: At about 200 kilometres from Nairobi lies Amboseli, Kenya’s other famous national park. Amboseli is popular with tourists for lying at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak.

Mt Kilimanjaro from Amboseli National Park. Photo: Unsplash/Sergey Pesterev

So, your wildlife photos will come with that stunning backdrop of the snow-capped extinct volcano. Activities in Amboseli include game drives, picnics and sundowners, a trip to Observation Hill, and so on.

Mount Kenya: The second-highest peak in Africa, Mount Kenya is known for hiking, trekking and mountaineering opportunities.

Lake Nakuru National Park: Lake Nakuru attracts thousands of pink flamingos every year, from July to February. It lies 3.5 hours and 150 kilometres from Nairobi.

Flamingos at Lake Nakuru. Photo: Unsplash/Bibhash Banerjee

Nakuru also has rhinos, giraffes, and other wildlife. It is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Ramsar Wetland of International Importance.

Tsavo National Parks: Hop on the Madaraka Express from Nairobi to Mombasa to see the Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks. The train line runs right through the national parks. The six-hour, USD 25 (Rs 2,075) journey from Nairobi to Mombasa is immensely rewarding in terms of what you can see outside the window: giraffes, elephants, zebra… so keep an eye out.

Mombasa and Diani Beach: Diani, one of Africa’s best beaches, lies on the Indian Ocean. It is 30 kms from Mombasa. Snorkelling, swimming, diving, kite surfing are all part of the Diani experience.

In addition to these, if you have more time in Kenya, visit Lamu Island and the Samburu National Reserve.

What you need for a trip to Kenya

First up, a yellow fever vaccine. You need to get yourself the yellow fever jab before flying to Kenya. Since the vaccines are available only at certain government-designated centres, plan your dates carefully. You will also need to take adult polio drops to travel to Kenya.

A Maasai leader. Photo: Ananya Bhattacharya

Visa: Kenya is visa-free for Indians starting January 1, 2024. However, visa-free does not mean free entry into the country. You still need to get an eTA, or electronic Travel Authorisation before entering the country. Register yourself on the Immigration and Citizen Services portal and fill in your details. You need to pay USD 32.50 (Rs 2,700), plus bank and processing fees.

Nairobi national park against the city skyline. Photo: Unsplash/Murad Swaleh

Currency: One Indian rupee is equivalent to 1.74 Kenyan shilling. If you’re getting your dollars converted into the local currency, it is a good idea to do it at a bank. The cost of living and everyday rates are lower than in India; so, the Kenyan cities are a breeze for the Indian traveller. Unlike Europe, where you are frantically multiplying every euro by 90 to get an idea of how much you’re spending; it is the opposite here.

What to keep in mind

For a trip to Kenya, especially during the migration season, you might want to pack your cameras and lenses along. Also, given that you will be staying in Masai Mara, carry a mosquito repellent cream or lotion. Load up on the sunscreen.

Check for the weather predictions and pack your jackets and warm clothes accordingly. You’d not want the dawn chill to spoil your Masai Mara experience after all!