Two Taco Tasting Menus Meld Mexican With Japanese Omakase

At Cariño, Norman Fenton offers a unique late-night taco omakase.

There’s a place where laid-back streetside staples get a seat at the high table. A point where Mexican and Japanese culinary traditions meet, creating a journey for diners where the chef is the guide, and each plate is a revelation. Welcome to the taco omakase — a dining experience that speaks to connoisseurs and adventurous eaters alike.

In an omakase, Japanese for “I’ll leave it up to you,” there is no menu. All you need to do is sit back and allow yourself to be surprised by the chef. Now, take that spirit and wrap it up in a freshly made tortilla.

If you, like me, find the idea of eating tacos in an impressive succession downright irresistible, you will understand why the buzz around two omakase experiences in Chicago had me at hello. First, we visited Cariño in Uptown, where chef Norman Fenton (Schwa, Brass Heart) offers a tasting menu drawing from Central and South America. This is a late-night offering apart from Cariño’s standard tasting menu. Perhaps this option, which costs less than the standard dinner, is a gateway for diners apprehensive of spending $190 to $210 for a meal; the taco omakase costs $125.

Before Cariño opened in December, Taqueria Chingón, a Bucktown taqueria known for its creative food and bold flavors, had periodically offered special ticketed taco omakase dinners, with the first being in October 2022. The small restaurant has a patio but doesn’t normally have indoor seating. Oliver Poilevey, whose parents opened famed French restaurant Le Bouchon, unveiled this taco stand to give his cooks — Marcos Ascencio, Angel Guijosa, Antonio Incandela, and Alexander Martinez — the stage. The group also runs Obelix and will open a mariscos restaurant inside Thalia Hall in Pilsen called Mariscos San Pedro.

Both spots serve up their unique brand of omakase magic: Cariño’s is all about refined, highly personalized service and a balance between planned dishes and masterful improvisation. At the same time, the chefs behind the Chingón-Obelix team work together to deliver tacos that aren’t afraid to punch above their weight.

Both experiences share a promise: Each visit is a one-way ticket to a taco wonderland.

While sharing the common thread of personalization and surprise elements inherent to omakase and the obvious love for the kernel shared by both Cariño and Chingón, each experience delivers its unique story. One is like a friend giving you a hug, while the other one feels more like a high five. So, if you find yourself in the intersection of curiosity and craving in the world of taco omakase, every direction is the right one. Whether it’s a love song to Mexico at Cariño or a gutsy guitar riff at Chingón, these taco omakase experiences in Chicago clearly sing praises to the boundless promise of tacos.

Cariño, 4662 N. Broadway

Cariño’s late-night taco tasting menu is separate from the fine dining restaurant’s standard menu.

Stepping into Cariño, a space where fine dining restaurants 42 Grams and Brass Heart resided, is like being whisked away to a hidden hot spot in Mexico City. Low lights, meaningful art, and an intimate setting make you feel as if you’re in for something special. The name captures the spot’s essence: “Cariño,” a term of endearment or a word for love or affection in Spanish. Here, “cariño” isn’t just the name; it’s the vibe. Fenton provides an intimate and personalized dining experience that’s attentive at every turn and thoughtfully put together. You instantly feel welcome and know you are in for a treat. Like that cozy dinner-at-abuela’s feeling, only with mad chef skills and a killer playlist. The art at Cariño is selected with intention. Fenton personally knows the artist behind each work.

Land one of the seven spots at the counter for a front row seat to the open kitchen where chef Fenton serves a multi-course meal, ranging from eight to 12 dishes. Every movement is part of a dance choreographed to the soundtrack of Mexico’s heart pulsing in the background. Imagine Control Machete’s edgy underground tracks slipping between the aromas and sounds of the star of the show — sizzling masa. Corn takes center stage after the opening acts of a michelada oyster and a remarkable aguachile. Like magic, masa will transform into a variety of capricious permutations: a blue corn tetela with duck confit cured and balanced with the smoky bitterness of a recado negro; a truffle quesadilla with seasonal mushrooms made on a stone comal (a premium supplement worth splurging on); or a delightfully crispy and juicy taco de suadero with a side of jardín, made with slow-cooked brisket and a “garden” of onion and cilantro.

Fenton explains each course throughout the experience, dishing out tales from his latest trip to Mexico. “You gotta try this,” he said, sliding over a wagyu beef taco. Eager to try it, I had to stop myself to allow for a molcajete gooseberry salsa, so good I could drink it, to be drizzled on. One bite, and it was as if my asada taco had been treated to a luxury vacation.

At Cariño, diners can expect an ever-changing menu with a few anchors, including an aguachile, a take on a more traditional taco, and a dessert. “The taco omakase is curated based on what we as a concept feel like projecting that night,” says Fenton. “Everything else is subject to change based on ingredients and mood.”

Cariño´s Taco Omakase experience is available beginning at 9:30 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. The price is $125 per person, which includes food, beverage, and gratuity.

Taqueria Chingón, 2234 N. Western Avenue

Taqueria Chingon in Bucktown offers a unique omakase dinner.

A twist on an omakase experience takes place after hours at the popular Taqueria Chingón. In Mexican street talk, the term “chingón” is a badge of honor for anything that stands out remarkably, for example, tacos, setting our expectations right from the start.

On the night of my visit, the casual eatery was buzzing, so much that it took a few minutes, a few knocks, and a text to open the door. It was all well worth it. Once inside, I noticed that the usual counter area for the trompo al pastor had been transformed into a stage where the taco omakase would take place. Excited, I took one of the eight seats reserved for the lucky few who would huddle underneath the papel picado decorations (left behind by a recent party) to watch the action unfold.

A tiny restaurant off busy Western Avenue, buzzes with a lively spirit in a casual setting. You are at a fabulous after-party where street food goes VIP. The decor and ambiance speak to a collective, spontaneous spirit seasoned with remnants of parties past, casual art, and other mementos.

A twist on the classic quesabirria swaggered in to kick off a set of 10 courses. But forget the birria; we are talking lobster and melted Oaxaca cheese tucked inside a freshly made blue tortilla. The consomé was no afterthought — light, flavorful, with a little bit of a kick, and so good you’ll want to chase it until the last drop.

Then came the tuna and belly loin on a sesame seed tostada with avocado and a pop of mandarin kumquat. I devoured it, making me break my promise not to eat it all to save room for the remaining courses.

More than one cook in the kitchen? This wasn’t just a good idea; it was a culinary jam session. In that tight space, the chef crew for the night — Ascencio, Guijosa, Martinez, and Poilevey — were like rock stars headlining the stage. Each of them got their moment in the spotlight, sharing stories, presenting dishes, talking about the ingredients in each plate, or basking in the feedback.

I did not get the pairing at Chingón, which can be purchased for $50. Pairing options include Champagne, wine, mezcal, beer, and an after-dinner cocktail. During the meal, chef Ascencio shared that Chingón will soon include their own beer in the pairings.

According to Ascencio, the Chingón-Obelix team designs the dynamic menu around the ingredients they want to showcase. Take Ibérico pork, for example, the Rolls-Royce of swine. It’s so good that it deserves its own fan club. The meat comes from the breed pata negra, which is fed a diet of acorns, giving the meat a unique flavor and texture. Guijosa presented a grilled Ibérico pork taco with salsa brava, a masterpiece of simplicity. This taco doesn’t just sit on your plate; it demands your attention — it’s the kind of taco that only the word “chingón” could describe.

Taqueria Chingón´s Taco Omakase experience is usually offered on Mondays. Follow the restaurant’s social media to get information on upcoming experiences. The price is $135 per person. A pairing option is available for an additional $50.