Gucci wants to make dressing up fashionable again – here are its suggestions

Armstrong: ‘While the silhouettes were reassuringly slouchy, the embellishments were unapologetically glamorous’ – getty

Many modern designers have an uneasy relationship with the idea of dressing up. Contemporary fashion reveres nonchalance and effortlessness. Male designers, in particular, from the 28-year-old Briton Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, to almost-90-year-old Giorgio Armani, wear a uniform of T-shirts and jeans.

Minimalism has a big segment of fashion consumers in its grip, thanks partly to the cult status of the television drama Succession. Waiting to get into Erdem’s London show last week, two French fashion executives wistfully remarked to me that there was no place in their stores for decorative clothes because most Parisian women consider anything other than a black tuxedo at night de trop.

Nothing wrong with that. If you don’t take risks, you minimise the chances of a fashion faux pas. But wouldn’t it be enlightening to find a middle way: a form of dressing up, for special occasions if not everyday, that sparked joy, didn’t make you feel constrained, on tippy toes and somehow not yourself?

Gucci’s new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, who was appointed a year ago, sent out a clever collection that could be just the thing required to nudge fashion out of its minimalist comfort zone. While the silhouettes were reassuringly slouchy, with dropped shoulders and chunky twinsets (consisting of knitted minidresses and boyfriend cardigans), the embellishments were unapologetically glamorous. Beading twinkled on knitwear, coats and draw-waisted wool parkas. Sequins were woven into hot-pant playsuits, which were offset with towering platform loafers. Brocades were sliced into eye-catching dresses and car coats. Lingerie dresses were shot through with silver.

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024: ‘Beading twinkled on knitwear, coats and draw-waisted wool parkas’ – getty

Sequins were woven into hot-pant playsuits, offset with towering platform loafers – getty

Expect to see Kirsten Dunst, Julia Garner, Daisy Edgar-Jones, Mark Ronson and Salma Hayek (who is married to Francois Henri Pinault, the CEO of the company that owns Gucci), who were all in the front row, wearing permutations on a red carpet soon.

Kirsten Dunst arriving at the show – Getty

Solange, Salma Hayek, Francois-Henri Pinault and Hanni on the front row – getty

Too embellished? How about flat patent riding boots, gold chokers or the unmistakable sheen of Very Expensive Outerwear in chartreuse, sky blue or navy as a way to liven up your pared-back wardrobe?

Outerwear came with the ‘unmistakable sheen’ of a high price tag – getty

Luxurious coats were a feature of the collection – getty

De Sarno has a big job on his hands. Not long ago, Gucci, one of the biggest luxury fashion houses in the world, saw growth of 25 per cent year on year under Alessandro Michele, its previous, maximalist, creative director. But recently those numbers have plateaued. Michele’s OTT costume party approach might be too much right now. But De Sarno’s first collection in September seemed too little for many; this one might be just right.

Sabato De Sarno takes a bow following the conclusion of the show: time will tell whether his time at Gucci is judged a success – getty

Tod’s has a new designer too. Matteo Tamburini, 41 – who took his bow in a sweatshirt, jeans and baseball cap – did a stand-out job with his first collection at a house where the clothes have often seemed an afterthought.

Minimalist it may have been, but with eye-catching details. Extra deep turn-ups on slim, mannish trousers, fine knits designed for multiple layering and sleeveless trench dresses with contrasting patterns delivered gimmick-free sophistication.

Tod’s Autumn/Winter 2024: minimalist with eye-catching details – Getty

Gimmick-free sophistication at Tod’s – getty

More from the shows…

Hanni and Daisy Edgar-Jones on the front row – Getty

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 – getty

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 – getty

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 – getty

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 – getty

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 – getty

Tod’s Autumn/Winter 2024 – getty

Tod’s Autumn/Winter 2024 – getty

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