Bhuj earthquake museum is transforming Gujarat’s tourism scene—7 lakh visitors and counting

Bhuj: Gujarat’s last big town on its western frontier is a place of tiny buildings. Barring a few odd constructions, there are no commercial, administrative, or residential spaces in Bhuj higher than two storeys, or 11 metres.

For long, this conspicuous absence of tall buildings was the fallout of the deadly 2001 Bhuj earthquake, which devastated the area and killed nearly 13,000 people.

Bhuj finally got a shiny, 50-metre imposing structure—the Bhuj earthquake memorial. Prime Minister Narendra Modi inaugurated the Smritivan Earthquake Memorial and Museum on 28 August 2022.

“The region of Kutch suffered trauma when the earthquake came in 2001,” said Bhuj District Magistrate Amit Arora. As a “mark of respect” for the lives lost, this museum holds special meaning for Bhuj residents.

“It recognises the rescue efforts and highlights the region’s history, art and culture,” said Arora. He added that the museum is developing into a cultural hub and has the potential to become “the heart of the city.”

The light brown memorial, zigzagging along several white funnel-shaped canopies, sits on top of Bhujiyo Dungar hill after which Bhuj is named. Visible from a distance, it’s hard to miss. Using interactive technology, the museum tells the stories of damage, devastation and suffering in Bhuj and adjoining areas with an immersive experience.

bhuj earthquake museum is transforming gujarat’s tourism scene—7 lakh visitors and counting

A digital screen where visitors can listen to stories of survivors | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

A digital screen where visitors can listen to stories of survivors | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

Next to this building is a vast forest created with the Japanese Miyawaki technique. This forest – touted to be the world’s largest – houses 50 check-dam reservoirs with the nameplates of almost all the earthquake victims.

bhuj earthquake museum is transforming gujarat’s tourism scene—7 lakh visitors and counting

The light brown memorial is hard to miss | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

The light brown memorial is hard to miss | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

Seven sprawling galleries – called Rebirth, Rediscover, Restore, Rebuild, Rethink, Relive, and Renew – go beyond the earthquake story and its aftermath to give insights into Kutch’s history and disaster response. Three of the seven exhibition rooms – Rebirth, Rediscover, and Rethink – showcase these aspects. ‘Rebuild’ depicts then-Gujarat chief minister Modi steering reconstruction efforts nine months after taking over the reins from his predecessor Keshubhai Patel, who was criticised for his poor handling of rebuilding work.

Chronicles of devastation and suffering coexist with those of resilience and collective remembrance, offering a three-hour visit filled with information and experiences. However, as guides rush visitors through sections, it is difficult to reflect on the sense of loss and pain that accompany natural disasters.

Smritivan isn’t just meant to commemorate victims and educate future generations about preparedness measures. The Gujarat government has entrusted it with a bigger responsibility – pushing tourism in Bhuj.

It wants the museum to become a cultural hotspot for Bhuj residents and tourists who flock to the Rann of Kutch. Seven private agencies have been tasked with running and administering the museum.

bhuj earthquake museum is transforming gujarat’s tourism scene—7 lakh visitors and counting

A cultural hotspot 

If the footfall is any indication, the museum is already a hit among people. According to Museum director Manoj Pandey, Smritivan welcomed over 7 lakh visitors between September 2022 to January this year. At least three to four schools come for field trips every day, not just from Gujarat but also from neighbouring states like Rajasthan and Maharashtra.

The museum also hosts four to five events every month in collaboration with schools, local NGOs, or corporate offices. The programmes range from marking World Environment Day, celebrating festivals like Diwali and Christmas, or commemorating events like the Ram Temple consecration ceremony.

The museum hosted a day-long programme ahead of the Ram temple consecration ceremony. An extempore speech on the Hindu god was conducted in its auditorium, along with a felicitation ceremony for Kar Sevaks who were part of the temple movement. An essay writing competition on Ram and a live painting session of 18 different facets of his life also took place. The highlight of the day was a pair who walked from the Miwayaki forest to the museum while dressed as Ram and Sita. Nearly 200-250 people burst into spontaneous Garba performances on the premises, chanting Jai Shri Ram.

bhuj earthquake museum is transforming gujarat’s tourism scene—7 lakh visitors and counting

Celebrations ahead of the Ram Temple consecration on the premises of the Shantivan Museum in Bhuj | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

Celebrations ahead of the Ram Temple consecration ceremony on the premises of the Shantivan Museum in Bhuj | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

However, the museum’s “biggest day” remains 26 January, which it celebrates much differently than the rest of the country.

“Last year, we had a big function here. Police, National Cadet Corps and local people together held a big function,” said Manoj Pandey, who was appointed museum director by the Delhi-based Soni Management company.

He noted that on 26 January – also the day of the 2001 Bhuj earthquake –  families of the victims visit the museum to pay homage to their dead.

The museum is still a work in progress. Plans are underway to further digitise the galleries and increase the number of exhibits.

“We are trying to display material from the victims’ families. We have reached out to them. We are trying to procure one or two items related to the deceased person and exhibit them here,” he said.

Preceding controversies

Twenty years is a short time to forget a catastrophe as humungous as the Bhuj earthquake. Even those born after 2001 have grown up listening to vivid accounts of its horror. Both young and old are now familiar with Bhuj’s immediate response measures, partly due to strict building laws in the city.

Bhuj resident and artist Jigar Soni, 35, observes that the building measures have altered the city’s landscape, making it expand horizontally instead of vertically. However, he is immensely proud of the “advanced museum” his hometown has got.

“The 2001 earthquake was extremely devastating. Such an earthquake left behind a big lesson for the people. The young people and tourists will get to know how to emerge out of an earthquake, how to overcome it,” he said.

However, the construction of the museum was accompanied by a fair share of controversies. Acharya recalled that his NGO, Hunnarshala Foundation, had organised a few community gatherings to help architects understand the context for designing the museum.

But the community’s suggestions didn’t make it to the final plans.  Monuments and nameplates didn’t align with local traditions, which regard a dead person’s spirit as “immortal”.

“There is no meaning to worshipping the body after its death. That’s the belief as per the Hindu shastras. So, someone suggested that trees be planted instead and they can given the names of the victims who died. Their family could come and take care of the plant,” Acharya recalled.

It was also suggested that small walking trails be made instead of “changing the ecology of the Bhujiyo hills”. But eventually, said Acharya, check dam reservoirs were built where victims’ names were engraved on steel. The rationale behind this “noble” concept was that the percolating water would provide a tranquil space for families to remember their loved ones.

bhuj earthquake museum is transforming gujarat’s tourism scene—7 lakh visitors and counting

A check damn with name plates of victims on steel plates stuck on the walls | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

A check dam with name plates of victims | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

Bharvi Soni, 21, who participated in the Ram Temple consecration event at the museum, was in absolute awe of the new cultural addition to Bhuj. She loved the mud work on display at the centre, which “gives a glimpse of Kutch’s handicraft”.

Born two years after the quake, she grew up hearing stories of buildings “falling like leaves” and of children and teachers dying during the Republic Day rally that year.

Soni was extremely impressed by the Relive Gallery, where visitors can experience Bhuj earthquake tremors while watching 3D visuals of crumbling buildings and splitting roads.

“We can experience the earthquake. It makes you feel that we are in the middle of an earthquake and we relate to the actual incident which was of such a high magnitude,” she said.

The many faces of disaster

Galleries inside Smritivan – which translates to “forest of memories” – are shrouded in darkness. Rooms dedicated to the earthquake focus on messages and exhibits. One powerful installation shows bodies and rubble that visitors can walk past, giving them a glimpse into the magnitude of the devastation. Then, there are walls of digitised newspaper clips, with pictures and videos of rescue and rehabilitation work showing how the city rose from the debris.

bhuj earthquake museum is transforming gujarat’s tourism scene—7 lakh visitors and counting

An installation showcasing death and rubble in the aftermath of the earthquake | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

An installation showcasing death and rubble in the aftermath of the earthquake | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

The journey doesn’t take people immediately into the tragedy. It’s a slow build-up rising to a crescendo.

“Few sections are dedicated to the earthquakes [and] the geographical landscape. It’s like an educational tour,” said District Magistrate Arora, who regularly receives reports from the museum authority regarding its operations and functioning.

He said that a space like the Smritivan Earthquake Memorial and Museum helps replace people’s fear with “awareness”.

Once those segments are over, tourists walk into a gallery with a small black-and-white TV frozen at the moment of the devastating impact. Ustad Bismillah Khan was playing the shehnai at 8:46 am on Republic Day when the 7.7 magnitude seismic jolt changed the course of Bhuj. Records of survivor’s activities are displayed in digital exhibits.

“I was getting ready by the mirror when it shuddered and cracked,” read an entry.

One exhibit showed several phone receivers dangling from the ceiling, playing recorded panic calls. A few walls dedicatedly highlight the relief and rescue aid received from across the world. Names of countries and institutions and details of their help – from human resources to monetary and logistical assistance – are recorded in one of the galleries.

bhuj earthquake museum is transforming gujarat’s tourism scene—7 lakh visitors and counting

A glossy wall details the monetary and humanitarian aid sent by countries across the world | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

A glossy wall details the monetary and humanitarian aid sent by countries across the world | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

All this is preserved by a staff of more than 200 people, under the guidance of Director Pandey. They ensure that the museum runs like clockwork on all days, except Mondays.

Visiting the 2.48-acre museum isn’t a cheap affair, though. An adult ticket costs Rs 300, although the price is halved for those below 18 years of age. According to Bhuj residents like Acharya, the steep price is a deterrent for many visitors.

“I always recommend guests who have come to Bhuj to visit the museum. But for a family of four to five adults, the total amount will add up to Rs 1,500. That’s something that not all people will be able to spend.”

(Edited by Zoya Bhatti)

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