In autumnal Normandy, all roads lead to food and drink

Asia's Tech News Daily

normandy – Adam Batterbee

La route du fromage, la route du cidre, la route du poiré. In Normandy, it seems, all roads lead to somewhere lovely to eat and drink.

As summer drifted into autumn, those roads wound past apple and pear orchards ready to be harvested. Normandy cows munched on sweet grass, fertilising those orchards and preparing the raw materials for rich butter and cheese. Although there was still a hint of summer in the air, morning mists were filling the hollows between hills: it was time to embrace autumn and all its flavours. And, in honour of last week’s World Calvados Day, this was the place for it.

After rolling off the overnight ferry in St-Malo, I followed the well-worn pilgrims’ trail to Mont-St-Michel. Having this magnificent medieval abbey in my sights for the 40-minute walk from the carpark was one of the chief pleasures of this tidal island.

Another was to be the famously fluffy omelette at La Mère Poulard. But this pillowy concoction was criminally under-seasoned and, at €32 (£27), overpriced. I suspected that Mme Poulard’s heyday was some time ago.

As it happened, this was the only dud on my week-long dining – and drinking – road trip. That evening’s dinner at Au Plaisir de la Lucerne in the tiny Manche village of La Lucerne d’Outremer (staying at Les Châteaux de la Lucerne d’Outremer, from £150) made up for the lacklustre lunch. Energetic young couple Marine and Yoann were doing exciting things at low prices (two courses for €20/£17), especially the goat cheese panna cotta with cumin, carrot and prosciutto.

normandy – Adam Batterbee

Before plunging into cider and poiré (perry) country in the southern Manche and Orne departments, I made a detour to the coastal resort of Granville. A stroll around its fortified upper town and seafront promenade up to Christian Dior’s old house, now a museum, whetted my appetite for a longer return visit. In the meantime, a louche afternoon in the lushness of the Normandy countryside awaited.

Pierre-Martin Neuhaus left his finance job in New York City in 2014 to become the third generation to run Distillerie du Coquerel, which produces practically every liquid that can be extracted from apples and pears: cider, calvados, pommeau (calvados with apple juice), poiré – plus Pierre-Martin’s own Normindia gin, which has a zingy citrus flavour inspired by his time in India.

“Calvados is probably the most sustainable spirit in the world,” he said. “Irrigation is prohibited in Normandy, so it’s naturally made by the landscape, and that way we don’t need to use water. We don’t use pesticides.”

He has been working with the British-French producers of Avallen, a bee-friendly calvados that formed part of an enjoyably lengthy tasting. All the complexities of apples came out in the drinks, from the pommeau’s sweetness and the young Avallen’s freshness to aged calvados that was almost like whisky.

Feeling light-headed and pleased I wasn’t driving, I went from the darkness of the tasting room to golden, late afternoon light filling the grounds of the Musée du Poiré near Barenton. Most of this free museum is outdoors, with educational trails showing how perry and cider are made. It set me up nicely for my visit the following morning to Ferme de l’Yonnière along the route du poiré, in the fertile countryside around medieval Domfront (staying at B&B Numéro 5, from €80).

Fourth-generation farmer Jérôme Forget not only produces perry and cider, but he also farms beef and dairy cattle. He doesn’t use pesticides either, relying on the hedgerows’ protective ecosystem around the orchards, his grazing cows fertilising the land. Feeling a bit decadent having a tasting at 10am, I sipped the pleasingly sharp Vinot poiré and the smooth, velvety Fossey. “The Fossey is almost 90 per cent sold before it’s even bottled,” he told me, which didn’t surprise me. The effervescent Champ du Poirier was delicious, rather like a crémant.

normandy – Adam Batterbee

It was a suitable aperitif for a lunch of extraordinary, creamy langoustine soup with pollock medallions at Ô Gayot in the attractive spa town of Bagnoles-sur-Orne. And, that evening, smoked salmon with smoked aubergine at the Hostellerie de la Renaissance (from €101) in Argentan made me forget that overhyped omelette.

My meanderings through the Orne countryside, including another cider tasting in the bucolic Manoir de Durcet, soon led me to the first of the holy trinity of Norman cheeses – camembert. There’s not much to the village of Camembert itself, apart from a Camembert museum and tourist information point run by the Président food corporation, as well as a boutique and bar. But 10 minutes away in the pleasant town of Vimoutiers was the Musée du Camembert, which, though small, told the story of how the cheese was apparently invented by 18th-century cheesemaker Marie Harel. And it offered a tasting of camembert, pont l’évêque and livarot, three of the most fantastically pungent cheeses in France. You can smell the farmyard at 100 paces.

By now I had crossed into the Calvados department and Pays d’Auge, the region that comes to mind when we think of Normandy’s lusciously green landscapes and half-timbered villages. There I followed the route du cidre, which took me to Calvados Roger Groult, where Jean-Roger Groult is the fifth generation of distillers. He focuses solely on top-quality calvados, and his family history is worthy of a movie.

Also flying the flag for keeping a long family tradition going is Domaine Dupont. By this point I had tried every apple drink going, but Dupont’s Givre, an ice cider rather like Canadian ice wine, was one I had to finish.

In the absurdly pretty village of Beuvron-en-Auge, Michelin-starred chef Jérôme Bansard runs Le Pavé d’Auge inside the half-timbered former market hall, and his wife Sophie runs the equally beautiful B&B (from €90) down the road. This was the time for serious cocooning. The cheese plate was pure heaven: the holy trinity plus pavé d’auge and a tomme from nearby Grandouet. The Grand Marnier soufflé left me breathless.

Leaving Pays d’Auge for the elegant Côte Fleurie, I marked the start of oyster season by heading straight to the Marché aux Poissons in Trouville (staying at Hotel le Ferà Cheval, from €85). Côté Mer prepared a platter of oysters and other fruits de mer for my lunch at one of the market tables. An afternoon walk in sunny Deauville made me think summer wasn’t quite over yet.

mary novakovich – Adam Batterbee

Before journey’s end at Ouistreham’s ferry port and a final taste of the sea (and more cheese) in La Voile Blanche, there was time for a night out in Caen’s buzzing Rue du Vaugueux and a trawl through the city’s huge Sunday market (staying at Le Clos Saint-Martin, from €100).

Up the road was coastal Cabourg, where I had a glimpse into Marcel Proust’s world in the new museum devoted to the Belle Epoque, La Villa du Temps Retrouvé. But it was in Dupont tea room where I could get fully Proustian with a plate of madeleines and the thickest hot chocolate imaginable.

The pianist was playing an old Charles Trenet song, Que reste-t-il de nos amours, which included the line “c’est une chanson d’automne”. It’s a wistful, melancholic song, but autumn never tasted sweeter.

How to do it

Travel with Brittany Ferries (brittanyferries.co.uk) to St-Malo (from £328, return) or to Caen (from £248, return). A crossing into St-Malo and out of Caen costs from £323. For more information, visit normandy-tourism.org.

Internet Explorer Channel Network
Asia's Tech News Daily
News Related

OTHER NEWS

PKPD secara pentadbiran di KMNS ditamatkan

© Provided by Sinar Harian KUALA PILAH – Perintah Kawalan Pergerakan Diperketatkan (PKPD) secara pentadbiran di Kolej Matrikulasi Negeri Sembilan (KMNS) di sini ditamatkan pada Rabu sebagaimana dijadualkan. Exco Keselamatan ... Read more »

30 hari menjadi suami, ayah, Caprice coret hidup bertukar 360 darjah

“30 hari pertama menjadi suami dan ayah… wow di mana saya harus bermula. Kehidupan saya berubah 360 sejak berkahwin dan tiba-tiba menjadi seorang ayah.” Begitulah coretan penyanyi rap popular, Caprice ... Read more »

COA says Justice Nazlan did not err in Najib's jail term and RM210 million fine

© Provided by The Edge PUTRAJAYA (Dec 9): The sentence meted out by High Court Judge Justice Mohd Nazlan Mohd Ghazali against former prime minister Datuk Seri Najib Razak for ... Read more »

Here are 5 ways to curb festive season overspending

© Provided by Singapore Business Review Around 56% of Singaporeans overspend their money during the season. Digital wealth platform Syfe, licensed by the Monetary Authority of Singapore, released its research ... Read more »

Pope Francis names first Filipino bishop in Japan

POPE Francis has appointed the first Filipino bishop in Japan. The Holy Father on Wednesday named Fr. Edgar Gacutan, a missionary priest, as bishop in the Japanese diocese of Sendai. ... Read more »

Allegri bimbang aksi Juventus

© Provided by Sinar Harian PENGENDALI Juventus, Massimiliano Allegri menyuarakan kebimbangan terhadap aksi dipersembahkan pemain, biarpun mencatatkan kemenangan 1-0 ke atas Malmo pada Khamis untuk muncul selaku juara Kumpulan H ... Read more »

Undang-undang mesti patuhi moral dalam aspek perkahwinan kanak-kanak

© Provided by MalaysiaNow Perkahwinan kanak-kanak telah menjadi amalan biasa dalam masyarakat Malaysia terutama ketika zaman nenek moyang kita. Setelah peredaran zaman, berkahwin pada usia yang muda menjadi buah mulut ... Read more »

GDP growth to moderate to 3.8% in 2022

© Provided by Singapore Business Review In 2021, GDP growth hit 7.1%. Singapore’s growth domestic product (GDP) growth will moderate in 2022 to 3.8%, slower than 2021’s strong record of ... Read more »

Ben Stokes suffers injury concern as England star struggles to bowl in Ashes opener

England ‘s star all-rounder Ben Stokes struggled with an injury concern on day two of the first Ashes Test against Australia. After bowling a probing first five overs in the ... Read more »

Airdrie boss Ian Murray 'unsure' on severity of Salim Kouider-Aissa's knee injury

Airdrie manager Ian Murray says his fingers are crossed for striker Salim Kouider-Aissa after he picked up a knee injury. The 25-year-old has featured 12 times in all competitions for ... Read more »

Dramatic moment driver slams into Christmas parade just weeks after Waukesha horror that killed six

A PERSON has been arrested after a minivan drove into a Christmas parade weeks after the deadly Waukesha crash. No one was injured and the driver of the vehicle was ... Read more »

Emma Raducanu rounds off her amazing year by signing a deal with Evian

TENNIS champ Emma Raducanu rounds off a rally amazing year — by signing a deal with bottled water company Evian. The US Open winner, 19, posed at Wimbledon to celebrate ... Read more »

‘i-Sinar' carian tertinggi dalam Google Malaysia tahun ini

© Provided by MalaysiaNow Bantuan kewangan oleh Kumpulan Wang Simpanan Pekerja (KWSP), “i-Sinar” menjadi terma carian paling tinggi rakyat Malaysia tahun ini, diikuti kejohanan bola sepak “Euro 2021” dan permainan ... Read more »

[VIDEO]Tak mahu beratur, bersesak bayar saman PDRM, gunakan 4 cara mudah ini

BAGI korang yang masih memiliki ‘surat cinta’ daripada Polis Diraja Malaysia (PDRM) yang belum dijelaskan, ini peluang terbaik. Kini polis menawarkan diskaun kompaun saman trafik sebanyak 80 peratus bermula hari ... Read more »

Kapitol-Attacke: Trumps Ex-Stabschef will nicht aussagen

Der einstige Stabschef von Ex-US-Präsident Donald Trump, Mark Meadows, wehrt sich juristisch gegen die Vorladung in den Kongress-Untersuchungsausschuss zur Attacke auf das Kapitol im Januar. © Bereitgestellt von Blick Trumps ... Read more »

Snapdragon 8 Gen 1 atasi Bionic A15 dalam jabatan GPU, tapi gagal di CPU

Snapdragon 8 Gen 1 bakal menemui pengguna dalam sejumlah peranti flagship tahun 2022. Cip ini adalah saingan secara langsung terhadap Apple Bionic A15 yang memperkasakan siri iPhone 13 sekarang. Maklumat ... Read more »

Feuer in Vernier GE: Zweiter Brand innert 24 Stunden im gleichen Hochhaus

In einem Hochhaus in der Genfer Vorortsgemeinde Vernier ist in der Nacht auf Donnerstag zum zweiten Mal innert 24 Stunden ein Brand ausgebrochen. Mehrere Bewohnerinnen und Bewohner wurden vorübergehend evakuiert. ... Read more »

Ashes: Cricket Australia CEO confirms fifth Test would be Day-night contest

Ashes: Cricket Australia confirms 5th Test would be Pink-ball match This Ashes series is all set to feature two day-night Tests after Cricket Australia CEO Nick Hockley confirmed that the ... Read more »

Poor batting costs Chandigarh Vijay Hazare opener

© Provided by The Times of India CHANDIGARH: Chandigarh skipper Manan Vohra’s cracking 56 off 69 balls went in vain after the UT side went down to Kerala by 6 ... Read more »

Drilon presses social media platforms to identify trolls

SENATE President Franklin Drilon pressed social media platforms to identify internet trolls in order to establish a balance between freedom of speech and the responsibility of using that freedom on ... Read more »

'He Handled the Pressure With Ease': Laxman, Chopra Name India's 'No.1 Performer' in New Zealand Tests

© Provided by News18 ‘He Handled the Pressure With Ease’: Laxman, Chopra Name India’s ‘No.1 Performer’ in New Zealand Tests Shreyas Iyer couldn’t have hoped for a better start to his ... Read more »

Exclusive-Lithuania braces for China-led corporate boycott

1 / 2Exclusive-Lithuania braces for China-led corporate boycottFILE PHOTO: European Union and Lithuanian flags flutter at border crossing point in Medininkai By John O'Donnell and Andrius Sytas FRANKFURT/VILNIUS (Reuters) – ... Read more »

French police release Saudi man arrested over the killing of Jamal Khashoggi, saying they got the wrong person: report

People hold posters picturing Saudi journalist Jamal Khashoggi outside the Saudi consulate in Istanbul.Yasin Akgul/Getty Images Paris police on Tuesday arrested a Saudi man whom they said was suspected in ... Read more »

Kazakhstan ready for joint approval of COVID-19 vaccination certificates with Russia

The date when the vaccination passports likely to be recognized was not specified Read more »

Fox Christmas tree arson suspect released without bail

The suspect was charged with multiple misdemeanor charges, as he allegedly was responsible for setting the artificial tree on fire with a piece of cardboard that was on fire initially. ... Read more »

PM Narendra Modi congratulates Olaf Scholz on being elected Germany's Chancellor

Prime Minister Narendra Modi on Thursday congratulated Olaf Scholz on being elected Germany‘s Chancellor and said he looks forward to working closely with him to further strengthen the India-Germany strategic ... Read more »

DepEd optimistic on expanding face-to-face classes by January 2022, official says

© Danny Pata Pupils from Aurora A. Quezon Elementary School in San Andres, Manila, line up before entering the school during the first day of the pilot run of face-to-face ... Read more »

Lok Sabha pays tributes to Gen Bipin Rawat, 12 others who died in helicopter crash

The Lok Sabha on Thursday paid tributes to Chief of Defence Staff Gen Bipin Rawat and 12 others who died in a helicopter crash in Tamil Nadu. The members also ... Read more »

5 Things To Avoid A Month Before Your Wedding

Shaadi season is here and if you are getting married soon, then we totally understand what hustle-bustle is going on in your mind. You must be under a lot of ... Read more »

SBI CBO Recruitment 2021: Notification released for 1226 posts on sbi.co.in, check details here

© Provided by Zee News New Delhi: The State Bank of India, Circle Based Officers notification has been released. The bank has commenced the registration process for 1226 vacancies from ... Read more »

RateGain Travel IPO subscribed 90% on final day, retail portion booked 4.66 times

© Sunil Matkar RateGain Travel IPO subscribed 90% on final day, retail portion booked 4.66 times The public offer of software-as-a-service company RateGain Travel Technologies has been subscribed 90 percent, ... Read more »

Danish fintech firm Pleo raises another $200 million at $4.7 billion valuation

STOCKHOLM (Reuters) – Danish financial technology firm Pleo, which offers expense management tools and “smart” payment cards for companies, said on Thursday it has raised another $200 million as part ... Read more »

Shiv Sena MP Sanjay Raut Says Party May Join Hands with Congress to Take on BJP in Uttar Pradesh, Goa

© Provided by News18 Shiv Sena MP Sanjay Raut Says Party May Join Hands with Congress to Take on BJP in Uttar Pradesh, Goa Shiv Sena leader Sanjay Raut had ... Read more »

Bigg Boss 15: Umar Riaz's cousin Nomaan Ellahi dismisses designer Faizan Ansari's claims of fraud and bullying after FIR on Asim Riaz's brother

© Provided by BollywoodLife.com After Paras Chhabra in Bigg Boss 13, it is Bigg Boss 15’s Umar Riaz who is making news for allegedly playing foul with his designers. As ... Read more »

Genelia returns to acting with husband Riteish's directorial debut 'Ved'

© IANS Riteish Deshmukh and Genelia Deshmukh.(photo:instagram) Mumbai, Dec 9 (IANS) Actor Riteish Deshmukh is all set to step behind the camera as he is all set to make his ... Read more »

Floral tributes paid to General Bipin Rawat, others

Floral tributes were on Thursday paid to Chief of Defence Staff General Bipin Rawat and 12 others killed in an Indian Air Force (IAF) helicopter crash here earlier. Senior Army ... Read more »

Paytm slips 2%; RBI's proposal to release discussion paper on digital payment charges hits sentiment

© Provided by CNBCTV18 Shares of One 97 Communications, Paytm’s parent, fell as much as two percent on Thursday after the Reserve Bank of India’s (RBI) announcement to release a ... Read more »

Air Marshal Manvendra Singh to head tri-service inquiry into IAF chopper crash: Rajnath Singh

A tri-service inquiry has been ordered by the Indian Air Force into the Tamil Nadu chopper crash tragedy that killed India’s Chief of Defence Staff General Bipin Rawat and 12 ... Read more »

Not Anupamaa or Imlie, but Ghum Hai Kisi Key Pyaar Meiin, Yeh Rishta Kya Kehlata Hai and more become Most Tweeted about TV shows on Twitter in 2021

© Provided by BollywoodLife.com In a year where there was a dearth of big Bollywood movies, TV shows grew in popularity. TV stars received much loved and TV show producers ... Read more »

Know all about Black Box and how it can help solve mystery behind CDS General Bipin Rawat's IAF helicopter crash

© Provided by DNA The sudden and untimely death of Chief of Defence Staff (CDS), General Bipin Rawat, along with his wife Madhulika Rawat and 11 other persons has shocked ... Read more »
On free-english-test.com you will find lots of free English exam practice materials to help you improve your English skills: grammar, listening, reading, writing, ielts, toeic