Leonardo DiCaprio as Jordan Belfort in The Wolf of Wall Street (2013) – Alamy
Sometimes fashion alights upon a piece so universal it barely qualifies as a trend. Yet it crops up in so many new-season collections, you have to acknowledge it is having a moment.
That’s what appears to have happened this spring with the polo shirt, so-called because it has long been the attire for actual polo players. René Lacoste made it a tennis essential in the 1920s and it didn’t take golfers long to adopt it too. You probably already have one. I already have one. If not, the versions hitting the shops right now make a convincing case for doing so.
Miu Miu Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show – Getty
We owe this spotlight to the catwalk, where polos appeared at Hermès, Miu Miu and Emilia Wickstead, along with the influence of Wales Bonner and Bode. It’s part of a wider shift towards a preppy aesthetic; one TikTok seems to rebrand every five minutes, with monikers like ‘old money’, ‘rich grandma’ and ‘tenniscore’.
They’re all versions of the same thing. Athletic and rich. A look that made Abercrombie & Fitch a megabrand in the ’90s. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that in times of geopolitical and financial turbulence, we want to look wealthy and untroubled; who could lead a more charmed life than a sporty undergrad at an Ivy League university?
Gwyneth Paltrow, Jude Law and Matt Damon channel the ‘waspy’ look in ‘The Talented Mr Ripley’, 1998 – Alamy
The polo hasn’t always held such appeal: ‘It went through a big “golf dad” phase. It wasn’t relevant among the “cool kids” for a while, but I think that’s finally starting to change,’ says Jack Carlson, creative director of Rowing Blazers, a brand famous for its sporty smart aesthetic. ‘Over the past 12 months we’ve really seen it take off. We do 100 per cent cotton, a really old-school piqué style, and a slightly spread collar. And we do quirky icons, many of them collaborations: Babar the Elephant, Winnie the Pooh, The Grateful Dead.’
Taylor Swift in New York, 2023 – GC Images
Tyler the Creator at the Grammy Awards in 2020 – Shutterstock
The polo also takes centre stage in Soeur’s collab with Leandra Medine Cohen, and on the high street in the latest JW Anderson x Uniqlo offering. Do try a polo with a twist; a knitted one, for instance, looks delightfully ’70s. There’s something unstudied about them – they look cool, but not try-hard.
Toss a knit over your shoulders, slip on your deck shoes, add a baseball cap with a vaguely varsity-inspired logo, and consider your spring outfit formula complete.
Try these…
a
Double faced knitted, £85, Cos, Wool, £350, & Daughter
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Ribbed lyocell, £69, Whistles, Organic cotton, £100, Café Leandra x SOEUR, Alpaca blend, £255, Cordera
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Short sleeved jumper, £24.90, Uniqlo and JW Anderson, Soft cotton knit, £77, Arket
a
Waffle, £70, David Gandy Wellwear, Cotton jacquard, £425, Wales Bonner, Merino wool and cotton blend, £179, Tiger of Sweden
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