Gravel gardens save time and water. Here’s how to create one.

Dave Egbert’s decision seven years ago to move to a remote patch of land overlooking Shasta Lake, Calif., seemed counterintuitive for an avid gardener. The property had limited access to water, but Egbert, who shares his gardening adventures on Instagram @beartrapgarden, had a plan for how he could make the site work for him: a gravel garden.

A type of xeriscaping, gravel gardens involve placing drought-tolerant, deep-rooting plants in a thick layer of fine, clean gravel, rather than directly in soil. They make lush, biodiverse outdoor spaces possible while keeping maintenance, cost and environmental impact to a minimum.

Gravel gardens are becoming increasingly popular in the United States as people seek ways to cope with the effects of climate change, particularly in drought-stricken western states. We spoke with several experts about why gravel gardens are a great option, even in areas not affected by drought, and how to create one of your own. Here’s what they had to say.

1. Why you should consider a gravel garden

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, between 30 and 60 percent of water consumption in American homes comes from outdoor use, depending on how dry the climate is. The EPA also states that water managers in 40 states anticipate water shortages, under average rainfall conditions, over the next 10 years. Even in typically rainy regions like the Pacific Northwest, summers are becoming drier.

That’s where a gravel garden comes in. “We are trying to create a beautiful garden with what Mother Nature provides, meaning rain,” says horticulturist Jeff Epping, “because water is incredibly precious, and it’s getting more and more scarce.”

Using a thick layer of gravel improves drainage and water runoff by helping the rainwater make its way to the soil underneath. And putting dry-loving plants into the gravel can dramatically reduce your water bill: Once the plants are established, there is no need for supplemental watering.

Gravel gardens also make a great alternative to the traditional lawns that have dominated American landscapes for decades. And a gravel garden full of water-wise plants that don’t require pesticides, fertilizers or mowing can help promote biodiversity by creating a happy habitat for local birds, pollinators and other beneficial insects. If you plant catmint, for example, it can attract bees that will help pollinate and reproduce those plants over time. The strong scent of the leaves of catmint can also repel garden pests, including rabbits and deer.

Epping says he’s noticed a huge difference in the wildlife that visit his gravel garden in Madison, Wis. The native plants, such as prairie baby’s breath, are “chock-full of bees and wasps,” and Monarch butterflies lay eggs on the nearby milkweed.

“I’m not just gardening for me, or choosing plants that just look good to me,” Epping says. “I’m doing it for the birds, and butterflies and the insects.”

2. Prep your site

Gravel gardens save time and water. Here’s how to create one.

The first step in creating a gravel garden is choosing your spot, ideally somewhere that gets full sun. There are no size requirements; you can make a large or small space work, if you choose your plants accordingly. Try to place your garden away from trees to keep debris from falling in because as plant detritus builds up and breaks down, unwanted weed seedlings could germinate and start growing.

Once you’ve chosen a location, excavate the top layer of dirt by removing all existing vegetation. Make a border of pavers or stones about 6 inches high to keep the gravel contained and at a consistent level, and to help keep weeds at bay.

Next, you’ll need a good quality washed gravel stone, ideally from a local supplier or quarry. Go with a hard stone that won’t break down over time, Epping says. The gravel should be all the same size, so the pieces remain loose and allow water to move through. Think of it as marbles in a jar.

Look for stones between ¼- and 3/8-inch, says Adam Glas, a garden supervisor at the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College in Pennsylvania. “If it’s too small, then it will hold moisture,” he says. “If it’s too large, the weed seeds can fall deeply into the gravel layer and find the subsoil.”

Spread the stones evenly across the area in a 4- to 5-inch layer. This foundation is key, Epping says, because if your gravel is too deep, the plants struggle. If it’s too shallow, “the roots of weed seedlings will reach the soil below and become established in your nice, clean gravel garden.”

3. Pick your plants

A gravel garden in Seattle designed by Erin Lau. Lau helps clients establish plants in a thick layer of gravel to allow them to thrive during seasons of drought. (Erin Lau)

Choose plants based on what will survive in your region, says James Monroe, who shares plant tips on Instagram at @unknownsucculents. Start by checking the USDA plant hardiness zone map.

Go for “a mixture of natives and non-natives that are climate adapted to your area” with deep root systems, says Erin Lau, a landscape designer in Seattle. Or better yet, Epping says, go all-in on natives. “They all do fine without us watering them, so we just need to use those throughout our gardens.” Depending on where you live, that could include perennials such as allium, foxglove beardtongue or Eastern bluestar.

Whatever you choose, start small. “Don’t be buying two- and three-gallon plants to put into your gravel culture,” says Jeff Jabco, director of grounds and coordinator of horticulture for the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College. You want to be able to tease the soil from the root ball into a bucket or tray, to keep organic matter out of the gravel and minimize the disturbance to your gravel layer when you’re planting down into it. It’s much easier to do that with quart-size plants or plugs.

You don’t need any special gardening tools. Just use your hands to dig into the gravel, making sure you do not dig up the soil underneath. Pop the plant in and cover the root system with the gravel, ensuring the crown of the plant is flush with the top of the gravel. There’s no hard and fast rule for arranging the plants, but Epping recommends spacing them about a foot apart.

4. Minimal maintenance required

Dave Egbert’s gravel garden in Shasta County, Calif., where he turned a bare plot of land into a vibrant landscape that he says is “always ephemeral, always changing.” (Dave Egbert)

Initially, you’ll need to water the garden frequently to help the plants along. But eventually, Glas says, if you’re using plants “that want to send their roots deep down and find the moisture within the soil, you shouldn’t have to water at all.”

You also don’t need to mulch, or use harsh fertilizers or soil amendments. A leaf blower is helpful to get rid of dust and foliage that lands on the gravel, and to help ensure weed seeds don’t germinate, but you could also use your hands. After winter, there is some cleanup to be done, cutting back herbaceous plants and removing leaf litter, but otherwise, you should be home-free. That’s because the gravel does the work, Epping says. As the garden grows over time, you can barely see the gravel under all the vibrant plant life.

This low-lift maintenance is exactly what drew Egbert to gravel gardening. “I’m not constantly coming home and thinking, ‘oh gosh, I’ve got to trim the hedges, mow the lawn, spray the lawn,’” he says. “It’s not a burden anymore. It’s just a pleasure.”