Gourmet haddock and lilac skies: a car-free break in Grimsby and Cleethorpes

Asia's Tech News Daily

Photograph: Iconic Cornwall/Alamy

The beach at Cleethorpes is next to the railway station. Kids are riding donkeys, digging castles and playing football on smooth, endless sands. There’s a waft of vinegar and frying and the jingle of claw machines. Two minutes from the train and I’m sitting on what’s left of the Victorian pier outside the world’s biggest fish and chip shop, Papa’s. Lunch is haddock (from £8.99 with chips) in crispy batter, light as tempura, and a Hull pattie (£1.89) that tastes like battered sage and onion stuffing.

Map

Cleethorpes pier has suffered fires, failed takeovers and partial demolition during the second world war; it has hosted nightclubs, bingo and wrestling. A local consortium restored its wooden walkways and stained glass six years ago and Papa’s fish and chip restaurant opened here in 2015, filling the old ballroom with round tables. Wartime forts appeared in the Humber Estuary, but essentially the east coast view has stayed much the same since the pier first opened nearly 150 years ago, financed by the railway company.

When ticketing website Trainline listed the UK’s top 100 beaches this summer, Cleethorpes was second only to Margate. The handy station, huge sands, Blue Flag awards and cafes all add to its ranking, along with access to watersports. Paddleboard sessions (£30 for adult lesson) and hire (£12) are provided by Ebb and Flow, one of several local companies energising this coastal conurbation. Cleethorpes may be a byword for seaside tackiness, but the reality is far more interesting than the reputation.

Cleethorpes may be a byword for seaside tackiness, but the reality is far more interesting

The town is full of people enjoying themselves: girls in hijabs taking selfies on the sand, boys on bikes racing down the spiral ramp from ivy-covered Ross Castle, and couples drinking on the mellow terrace behind Petit Delight and Corks 28, just off thriving Sea View Street. Even the starlings are having a good time, chittering on the pier before swirling, splitting and combining again to settle on the ferris wheel.

With four miles of wide beach, it’s easy enough to find space. I stroll through the evening light towards a rocky groyne shaped like a whale’s tail with a view towards Grimsby’s Dock Tower, elegant as the Sienese campanile (bell tower) that inspired it. There are curlews and red-legged gulls and the offshore breeze blends candy floss and seaweed. Walking back along North Promenade, I step into the neon-lit cacophony of Fantasy World and back into a childhood realm of tuppenny falls, air hockey and whack-a-mole.

Cleethorpes Light Coast Railway Photograph: Arch White/Alamy

I am staying at Cloves B&B (doubles from £90), a mock-Tudor end-of-terrace that is 20 minutes’ stroll along the seafront from the station and a few steps from the beach. Owners Maria and Nick Ross first met in the army; their rooms are stylishly neat and breakfasts include gourmet haddock florentine with garden chives.

Next morning, I ride the 73-year-old Cleethorpes Coast Light Railway from the nearby leisure centre to its main lakeside station (£4.50 return), where a popular beer garden surrounds the tiny Signal Box Inn. “The World revolves around Cleethorpes,” reads the inscription under a granite globe, a few minutes’ stroll along the coast path. This is the Greenwich Meridian Line, slanting over the tarmac so that visitors can stand with a foot in each hemisphere near a signpost showing distances to Moscow, New York and London.

Meridian Point, Cleethorpes. Photograph: David Soulsby/Alamy

Seven years ago, I set off with friends from Peacehaven in East Sussex along the 273-mile Greenwich Meridian Trail (GMT), which follows the line of the prime meridian. Over months, we met sporadically and progressed slowly northwards through seven counties, stopping about halfway up Cambridgeshire as the trail got too far away for day trips. Here in Cleethorpes, the meridian finally hits the coast again. I trek a couple of miles south past woods, caravans and a wind farm (the area’s strong winds and huge tides are great for renewable energy) to catch up with the GMT on a flood bank above Tetney Marshes.

The coastal walk back is a spectacular mix of saltmarsh, dunes and golden beaches under a huge, dramatic sky. The silver leaves and orange berries of sea buckthorn line the paths. The mudflats are full of birds: scampering sanderlings, stilt-legged redshanks and egrets in saline lagoons ringed with sea lavender. I have never been so close to a murmuration of starlings, shapeshifting dizzyingly around me. I detour through the Fitties, an area of characterful wooden chalets.

“R.I.P. Dad, Sail to somewhere happier!” reads one of many messages on an unofficial local landmark not far from the meridian monument. Known by various names, including the Buck Beck Beach Bench, this Mad Max-style mix of memorial, meeting place and organic community artwork began as a driftwood bench in 2016. Since then, it has been washed away by surging high tides and rebuilt several times, but keeps growing and evolving, sprouting dangling shells, tattered flags or grinning model skeletons. Another note, nailed to a charred log, reads DON’T TAKE THE SHORT CUT! BLACK FEET! NO SHOES. Cleethorpes’ resort manager, ex-police-inspector Scott Snowden, points out the safest route and tells me his team have rescued many unwary visitors from racing tides, but he enthuses about the views and is keen to promote ecotourism in the area.

Back in town, there are plenty of great places to eat after a day outdoors. The new Calcutta Street Kitchen opened on Sea View Street in September, serving British Indian fusions. If you ever wondered what naan bread would be like cooked with peanut butter or goat’s cheese, this is the place to find out. Or haddock rogan balti? You can even have an Indian version of fish and chips involving lightly spiced battered salmon and potato pakoras.

At first light on my last morning, I head to the seafront. The sky duly obliges with a shifting show of lilac, orange and molten gold, reflected in the wet sand and the gull-studded puddles. Ebb and Flow offers kaleidoscopic sunrise paddle-boarding (£15). Riverhead is the place for brunch: homemade granola and fruit compote, smoothie bowls, salads or irresistible cakes. Nic Till, who runs it, grew up here and spent 10 years abroad. Her cafes teleport the freshness of New Zealand’s coffee-shop culture into the middle of Cleethorpes and neighbouring Grimsby. A third branch and a new bakery are opening soon – partly to supply a lockdown-inspired demand for Riverhead’s brownie boxes.

Grade I-listed Dock Tower at Grimsby. The 60-metre structure was built in the 19th century to provide water power for dock machinery. Photograph: incamerastock/Alamy

Here as elsewhere, local businesses have often been nimbler than impersonal chains in response to the pandemic. While Grimsby has recently lost several big-name shops, Gemma Winter opened her innovative indie store, It Started with a Stitch, a year ago on pretty Abbeygate. It showcases products from 50 different small businesses, such as handmade jewellery, local honey and notebooks saying: “She is Grimbarian and she is fierce”.

The shop is close to Grimsby Town station, which has an all-year cycle hub that rents out bikes (from £7.50/hour) and gives out maps of routes around coast and wolds. It’s seven minutes from Cleethorpes by train or half an hour direct from Cloves B&B on buses 9 or 10. A PlusBus ticket, for a small fee on top of the train fare, covers a day’s unlimited travel around Cleethorpes, Grimsby and nearby towns like Immingham.

With its bleak-sounding Viking name and industrial reputation, Grimsby is more often a punchline than a favoured holiday destination. I’ve never visited before, even when I lived across the water in Hull, and find myself wandering open-mouthed round the Minster, with its stained-glass dockside scenes and stone medieval knight, stopping for coffee in the pew-seated cafe, revamped in July. St James’ Square outside also had an impressive makeover this summer and hosted a new Festival of the Sea.

Grimsby docks. Photograph: Gary Calton/The Observer

Grimsby trawlerman Ron Telford, who was third hand on board, shows me round the 1950s trawler Ross Tiger. It’s now moored permanently outside the Fishing Heritage Centre, a 10-minute stroll towards the docks (£4/£8.50 for kids/adults). “That was my bunk,” he says, pointing to a narrow bed in the aft. His tales bring the old trawler alive: braiding nets, tying cod lines or hacking ice with a shovel in the UK’s most perilous peacetime job. A list in the skipper’s polished wooden cabin records the serious quantities of tobacco and alcohol laid in for a 15-day voyage. The heritage centre recreates the 1950s, when Grimsby was the world’s biggest, busiest fishing port, complete with the smell of fish and real water pouring out of bulging nets onto rocking, storm-shadowed decks.

Five minutes’ walk away, along the River Freshney and over Corporation Bridge, Docks Beers is a craft brewery based in an old red-brick church since 2018. Upstairs, the new Docks Academy opened in March 2020, closed again a few days later, and now has a lively schedule of comedy, music and theatre. There are tours on Sundays and the taproom downstairs serves the brewery’s easy-drinking craft lager, fruity IPAs and more, plus a new range of spirits like Maritime Gin, infused with sea buckthorn berries.

The brewery has hosted local street-food sellers, including a converted fishing boat serving smoked fish from Alfred Enderby on the docks nearby. This Grimsby institution offers book-ahead tours (£10) and owner Patrick Salmon (a classic case of nominative determinism) is busy with the morning’s work: wood smoke fills tall, tar-coated brick chimneys and drifts through racks of filleted wild haddock.

Outside, there are plans to regenerate the old ice factory and surrounding area. The half-hour walk back to the station takes me past Riby Street, with its row of fishmongers, and the original Riverhead cafe, where I pick up some fruit loaf for the journey home. In 2022 there could be direct daily trains between London and Cleethorpes, transporting passengers straight from Kings Cross to the docks and sunrise-facing beach.

• Trains to Cleethorpes take three hours from London (via Doncaster) and 2½ hours from Manchester (from £22.30 each way, tpexpress.co.uk). This trip was supported by Lincolnshire County Council’s Tourism Recovery Plan. For more info see visitlincolnshire.com

Internet Explorer Channel Network
Asia's Tech News Daily
News Related

OTHER NEWS

Weather snow forecast UK – Prepare for a BRUTALLY cold weekend, Brits told as temperatures plunge more snow on its way

MORE winter weather is set to hit the UK this weekend with a barrage of snow and freezing temperatures expected. It will be most piercing in West London and Hereford ... Read more »

Police: Girl admitted 'making up' threats against McKeesport Area, West Mifflin schools

Dec. 3—McKeesport police say a girl is facing charges after allegedly admitting she made “violent threats” against a local middle school. Police said they were notified on Tuesday about an ... Read more »

Man's death under investigation in Galena

Dec. 3—GALENA, Kan. — The Kansas Bureau of Investigation is assisting local police in the investigation of the death of a man whose body was discovered Wednesday night inside his ... Read more »

UK snow forecast: Heavy showers turn to hail then white stuff to hit in just DAYS with hopes of White Christmas

HEAVY showers will turn to hail and then snow will fall in just DAYS as hopes of a White Christmas is on. Temperatures will drop to -3C in some areas ... Read more »

Urgent warning from heart surgeons as quarter of a million Brits at risk

OVER a quarter of a million Brits could face a new heart-related illness due to the stress of the Covid pandemic, experts have warned. Poor diet, lack of physical activity ... Read more »

Rihanna ‘shuts down pregnancy rumours in DM with a follower' after fans convinced she's having baby with A$AP Rocky

RIHANNA has 'shut down pregnancy rumours in a DM with a follower' after fans were convinced she's having baby with A$AP Rocky. The superstar, 33, set tongues wagging she could ... Read more »

Alec Baldwin honors wife, ignores cinematographer in Instagram post after TV interview

Alec Baldwin penned an emotional Instagram message following his ABC News interview with George Stephanopoulos on Thursday night. ABC via Getty Images Alec Baldwin took to Instagram after his tearful ... Read more »

Corona-Lage: Jens Spahn sieht genug Impfdosen zum Boostern bereitgestellt

In Deutschland sollen bis Jahresende 30 Millionen Impfungen erfolgen. Die Impfdosen sind bereits da, sagt der scheidende Gesundheitsminister. © Kay Nietfeld/​dpa Jens Spahn das letzte Mal als Bundesgesundheitsminister zur Corona-Lage ... Read more »

Österreich: Karl Nehammer soll neuer Kanzler und ÖVP-Chef werden

© LEONHARD FOEGER/REUTERS Österreichs bisheriger Innenminister Karl Nehammer bekommt neue Aufgaben Nach den Rücktritten von Schallenberg und Kurz stellt sich die konservative Partei neu auf – auch in der österreichischen ... Read more »

Jaguar bringt bis 2025 keine neuen Autos auf den Markt

Die künftigen Modelle von Jaguar werden sich im oberen Preissegment bewegen Diashow ein Jaguar XJ Electric auf Erlkönigbildern Jaguar XJ Electric auf Erlkönigbildern Jaguar XJ Electric auf Erlkönigbildern Jaguar XJ ... Read more »

Heartbreaking messages for tragic Arthur Labinjo-Hughes, 6, by distraught Sun readers horrified by his plight

LITTLE Arthur Labinjo-Hughes died at the hands of his evil dad and step-mum. The six-year-old suffered “dehumanising” abuse in the year leading up to his death, and Sun readers have ... Read more »

Marcos failed to comply with tax judgment — court

© Provided by BusinessWorld The only son and namesake of the late dictator Ferdinand E. Marcos had not paid a fine that an appellate court had slapped on him in ... Read more »

Ayda Field shares rare photo of her children – and their advent calendars are amazing

© Provided by Hello! ayda-field Robbie Williams‘ wife Ayda Field has posted a new photo of two of their children on her Instagram page – and it’s so cute. MORE: 86 ... Read more »

America and China opened the door for African coups to return

© Provided by Al Jazeera Sudan’s top army general Abdel Fattah al-Burhan speaks during a press conference at the General Command of the Armed Forces in Khartoum on October 26, ... Read more »

DOH: Philippines ranks 4th among countries with most single-day COVID-19 jabs

DOH: Philippines ranks 4th among countries with highest single-day COVID-19 jabs The Philippines ranked fourth among countries with the highest number of COVID-19 vaccinations in a single day with 2.7 ... Read more »

Iran chief negotiator says nuclear proposals ‘cannot be rejected'

© Provided by Al Jazeera Ali Bagheri Kani is Iran’s lead negotiator at the Vienna talks [File: Vladimir Simicek / AFP] Iran’s chief negotiator has said the draft proposals his ... Read more »

Taliban ban forced marriages of women in Afghanistan

Afghan woman escapes Kabul, leaves family behind Sarina spoke to ABC News from a military base in Holland about her journey out of Kabul in late August, after the Taliban ... Read more »

Botswana says some diplomats found to have Omnicron variant came from Europe

FILE PHOTO: Buildings are seen in the Central Business District (CBD) in the capital Gaborone, Botswana GABORONE (Reuters) – Botswana's President Mokgweetsi Masisi said some of the four diplomats who ... Read more »

Fight over pork chop sandwich — or ‘another woman' — leads to Macon man's stabbing

A Bibb County sheriff’s deputy answered a call about a person cut at a house on West Napier Avenue in Macon in the wee hours of a recent Tuesday morning. ... Read more »

Facebook's struggle with Gateway Pundit highlights challenge of containing disinformation

1 / 3Facebook’s struggle with Gateway Pundit highlights challenge of containing disinformationFILE PHOTO: Facebook logo is displayed through broken glass in this illustration By Peter Eisler (Reuters) – The Gateway ... Read more »

Tories hail by-election success as Labour claims PM should be ‘worried'

The Conservatives have insisted the Old Bexley and Sidcup by-election was a “good result”, despite the party’s majority in the traditionally blue seat taking a knock. But Labour has said ... Read more »

Soccer-FA CEO apologises for Wembley chaos at Euro final after scathing review

Euro 2020 – England Press Conference (Reuters) – The Football Association (FA) CEO Mark Bullingham apologised to fans on Friday for the “terrible experience” during the European Championship final between ... Read more »

Tech View: Nifty50 forms bearish candle; 100-EMA seen as key support

NEW DELHI: The Nifty50 index on Friday saw selling pressure near the lower end of the resistance level of 17,500 and before taking some support near the 17,150 level. The ... Read more »

Maryland prisons unconstitutionally placing mentally ill inmates in solitary confinement, lawsuit claims

Mentally ill inmates at Maryland’s prisons are being held in solitary confinement, exacerbating their illnesses and violating their constitutional rights against being submitted to cruel and unusual punishment, according to ... Read more »

Ohio sheriff's deputy charged with murder for shooting Black man in the back

FILE PHOTO: People protest following the death of Casey Goodson By Brad Brooks (Reuters) – A former sheriff's deputy in Columbus, Ohio, was charged with murder on Thursday in the ... Read more »

More people than ever doubt life will return to normal due to Covid-19 – survey

Around one in six adults in Britain think life will never return to normal thanks to Covid-19, the highest proportion since the pandemic began, a new survey suggests. The number ... Read more »

One in four Canadian shoppers overshot their Black Friday budget: report

CALGARY — One in four Canadian shoppers blew past their budgets on Black Friday and Cyber Monday, according to a new survey. © Provided by The Canadian Press The online ... Read more »

Bank of Montreal beats profit estimates, raises dividend by 25%

TORONTO (Reuters) – Bank of Montreal closed out Canadian banks’ results season with better-than-expected fourth-quarter earnings on Friday, as strong growth across all major businesses drove adjusted earnings up 38% ... Read more »

Katie Price stuns in bright pink leggings as she cuddles up to a pony for new horse riding gear launch

KATIE Price posed for glamorous shots next to a pony at the launch of her new horse riding gear collection. The ex glamour model, 43, stunned in bright pink leggings ... Read more »

Evil stepmum who tortured & killed Arthur ‘only wanted kids for BENEFITS and attention', blasts ex

A WICKED stepmum who murdered a six-year-old boy only ever wanted four children for benefits, her ex claims. Emma Tustin, 32, tortured Arthur Labinjo-Hughes to death after he moved in ... Read more »

Haven 2022 holidays are on sale for as little as £11.50pp next summer

FAMILIES can get their summer staycation for next year booked in already as Haven has announced some bargain deals for 2022. With four night stays starting from £69, you could ... Read more »

This Christmas reindeer with 120 LED lights is HALF PRICE at Homebase – just £35

If you're hunting for outdoor Christmas decorations then look no further – we've just found an incredible deal at Homebase. You can pick up this magnificent light-up reindeer for just ... Read more »

How to watch the Alabama-Georgia SEC title game as an NFL Draft-obsessed Jets or Giants fan

There is no better talent showcase during a college football season than the SEC Championship Game. Especially when Alabama and Georgia square off, as the 2012 and 2018 editions of ... Read more »

Alec Baldwin blames the victim in sickening interview

Alec Baldwin cries during his interview with George Stephanopolous on ABC. ABC News Just when you think Alec Baldwin can’t go any lower, he blames Halyna Hutchins, the woman he ... Read more »

Our iPhone SE 3 wishlist: We want to see these upgrades in 2022

The 2020 iPhone SE is the cheapest Apple smartphone you can buy. At $399 (£389, AU$679), we praised last year’s model for its budget-minded price and fast performance driven by ... Read more »

Uphaar cinema fire: Court dismisses Ansals' plea to suspend their jail term in evidence tampering case

New Delhi, A Delhi court on Friday dismissed the pleas of real estate barons Sushil and Gopal Ansal seeking suspension of their 7-year jail terms awarded for tampering with evidence ... Read more »

Storm Arwen: Armed forces being deployed in Scotland to areas cut off by extreme weather

The armed forces are being deployed to parts of Scotland which have been cut off following Storm Arwen. Armed forces minister James Heappey said 134 soldiers and marines will assist ... Read more »

Who's going to the Christmas party? Four people discuss Covid concerns

Photograph: Mark Makela/Reuters Some say they are turning down invitations, while others think the importance of getting together outweighs the risk Boris Johnson appeared to be at odds this week ... Read more »

Eddie Howe challenges Newcastle to make history by staying in Premier League

© PA Wire Newcastle head coach Eddie Howe remains confident the club can retain their Premier League status (Mike Egerton/PA) – PA Wire Eddie Howe has challenged Newcastle United to ... Read more »

‘We don't want confusion' — Minister confirms crunch Cabinet meeting as Christmas restrictions loom

© Provided by Extra.ie Justice Minister Helen McEntee has moved to assure people that we are in a ‘very different place’ to where we were last Christmas ahead of a ... Read more »
On free-english-test.com you will find lots of free English exam practice materials to help you improve your English skills: grammar, listening, reading, writing, ielts, toeic