Proper Devon pub with amazing food ranked one of UK's best

The equivalent of the Oscars in the pub industry is making it into the prestigious Estrella Damn Top 50 UK Gastropubs list. For the past four years, the Pyne Arms near Barnstaple has featured in the annual awards and this year is no different.

The winners, announced this week, saw the countryside pub on the edge of Exmoor National Park, ranked in 20th position. Pub owners Ellis and Amie Pannell couldn’t be happier because it reflects all the hard work they have put in with the help of their family.

It also cements Devon’s reputation as being home to many good pubs. Joining the Pyne Arms on the list from the region are The Cornish Arms in Tavistock which has climbed from number 12 to number two, and The Masons Arms in Knowstone which is in 37th position.

It was back in September 2021 that Ellis, then in his early 30s, and Amie, in her late 20s, bought the freehold of the pub. Since then it has undergone a massive transformation. It is not only renowned for its exceptional food but also being a proper pub where both locals, mostly farmers, and visitors can enjoy a drink.

The Pyne Arms is owned by Ellis and Amie Pannell

The location of the pub means people have to travel to get there. The nearest town is Barnstaple which is five miles away.

Ellis said: “We had worked at pubs in other areas and then we had the opportunity to buy the Pyne Arms with the help of some family. It was more or less derelict to be honest. It had been very busy back in the ’80s.

“It took us a good five years to establish ourselves so a lot of hard work has gone into it. Our vision was we wanted a pub that we would enjoy going to on a day off to enjoy a nice meal and pint.

“People say we are in the middle of nowhere, but I say we are in the middle of everywhere! It’s a destination pub.

“There are quite a few holiday places around us and we are a highly recommended place to go, but our local trade all year round is absolutely amazing. They are the most supportive locals you could wish for.”

The Pyne Arms near Barnstaple

The couple are both chefs but Amie mostly takes care of the front of the house while Ellis makes the food.

He said: “We are a very small team. I’m mostly on my own but I have another guy helping me with evening shifts. Our little girl bakes cakes and our boy helps with washing up. It’s a really family-orientated pub because my mum works in the kitchen with me and Amie’s mum makes the pastry along with Amie’s gran so it’s all hands on deck.”

In terms of the food served, it is described as being ‘good honest food’.

A meal served at The Pyne Arms

Ellis said: “It’s a warming menu at this time of year such as suet pudding and mash and braising meat. We have dishes that always stay on the menu such as fish and chips and burgers, but our more elaborate dishes change every week.

“We pride ourselves on using local produce. We are lucky to have a lot of good suppliers around us. Our food is also very reasonably priced considering the climate we’re in at the moment. You can have a main meal from £17.

“We are lucky to have very good reviews for our food and have consistently been in the top five pubs to eat in Barnstaple on Tripadvisor.”

The pub is a regular recipient of Taste of the West awards and won its first listing in The Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list in 2020. It was ranked 32nd and the following year moved up to 17th place. It then dipped slightly to 19th and is now 20th which is an amazing feat to still have a firm place in the listings.

Ellis said: “It’s absolutely amazing because it is such a good list to be in. They call it the pub Oscars. For us, it’s very uplifting and makes you want to strive to be a better pub.

“When you are on a list like that some people think you’re a restaurant as they look at pictures of the food we serve. However, we are still a proper pub; people can come in for a beer and we have young farmers meet up here every weekend.”

A meal served at the award-winning Pyne Arms

Just as impressive as their collection of awards, is running a top-rated business while raising two children aged eight and five. Ellis says the location of the pub couldn’t be a better place to bring up children.

He said: “It’s just beautiful where we are. It’s the main reason we do it really. We love what we do and it’s the customers who make it all worthwhile. We would like to be here for another 12 years; that would be amazing.”

Also featured on The Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs 2024 list is Michelin-starred The Mason Arms in Knowstone. It is ranked 37th but unlike Ellis and Amie, its owners are hoping to soon be counting down their last days at the pub.

Chef at the Masons Arms, Mark Dodson

Earlier this month, Mark and Sarah Dodson announced plans to retire after 18 years of owning the Grade II listed pub. It is currently for sale for just under £800,000.

The Masons Arms dates back to the 16th century and became a public house in 1840. It has retained its original features such as an inglenook fireplace, a thatched roof, exposed beams and cob walls.

The pub has consistently featured in The Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list for more than 10 years in different positions.

Mark said: “We have gone up and down in that time but the important thing is to be in it. It’s a great accolade to be considered one of the top 50 gastropubs in the UK and for it to be voted for by the industry which is also important.

“It’s a team effort here so the award is great for the staff too. We couldn’t do it on our own.

“We are still very much the village pub which people love; it’s not all about dining. We still have the pub as a pub and the restaurant is at the rear of the building. We have two experiences in the one building. It works really well for people.”

“Touch wood we are in a better position than most as we are freehold. It’s definitely tough out there and I can’t imagine what some businesses are going through.