Dolce & Gabbana gets ready to party with a sparkling collection at Milan Fashion Week

Dolce & Gabbana SS22

Dolce & Gabbana are after a new Gen-Z customer. And in their heads, that means parties, micro-minis or ‘belts’ as Domenico Dolce refers to them, visible underwear and lots of sparkle. Lots and lots of sparkle. A zany range of blue, green, orange, red and yellow crystals all over jackets, boots and jeans. Even The Joker might pause before putting them on.

‘We’ve all had such a dark time,’ said Stefano Gabbana before the show. ‘So we wanted this to be all about light and fun and very very sexy. But not in a tacky way. Sexy in a fun way.’

The designers’ usual take on feminine allure is a Sicilian widow played by Monica Bellucci. This calls for skintight but knee-length black lace dresses and really sharp corsetry and tailoring. As a rule, if knickers are visible on a Dolce & Gabbana runway, they’re big, black and 1950s.

Not this time.

Dolce & Gabbana SS22

Instead there were thongs and little lacy teddies, many of them covered in silver or gold tassels or crystals. The catwalk looked like an early Noughties nightclub – all black, mirrors and spotlights and the show thumped along to a retro club anthem.

This was appropriate because the collection nods to one the pair created in 2000. ‘All the 23-year-olds we work with were looking in the archive and they came across all these diamanté chokers and belts and the thigh-high distressed denim boots,’ explained Gabbana. ‘So they begged us to do it all over again.’

Well, if it worked for the twentysomethings a generation ago, why shouldn’t it sell just as well now? It ought to appeal to kids who’ve been deprived of fun for 18 dreary months. Of course, the Monica Bellucci customer will still find her crisply cut black trouser suits and elegant shirting in splashy florals, leopard print and white.

Dolce & Gabbana SS22

But the zebra-print jacket with sleeves the size and shape of elephant ears is not for her. Nor are the Jennifer Lopez tribute t-shirts, the purple crystal-embellished jeans and the brocade micro-minis. But they did what the designers promised, and raised a smile as well as the temperature. Just in time for a new Roaring Twenties.

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