How to Use French Hair Pins for Effortless Updos

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The most romantic of effortless updos are very rarely effortless. More often, they hinge on a styling secret, and today, we’re discussing one such essential: the French hair pin. Variations of the hair pin have been used for centuries, the better to keep hair off the face with minimal thought or materials.

“Hair pins are believed to date back to prehistoric times and have been used pretty consistently in societies across the globe ever since,” says London-based expert Rachael Gibson, also known as The Hair Historian. “Originally they’d have been single stick-like single prong  made from natural materials like bone, ivory or wood, eventually evolving into the double-prong, U-shape that we know today.” Though the same silhouette applies to bobby pins, the wider, less flexible French option favors fashion over form.

“A French hair pin is a U-shaped hair accessory used to secure hair in place,” says celebrity hairstylist Irinel de León. “It typically consists of a long, curved piece of material (metal, plastic, or sometimes wood) with two prongs at each end.” When properly employed, hair pins are an exceptionally chic way to secure an updo, creating an idyllically soft hold that enhances the inherent romance of chignons, twists, and more.

French Pins vs. Bobby Pins

French hair pins may sound similar to bobby pins, but there are some major differences in both form and function. While the French hair pin is an iteration of a classic means of sweeping up and securing your hair as a whole, bobby pins are all about keeping things (wigs, hairpieces, hairstyles) in place—and if, you’re going for a ‘90s look, serving as a metallic accessory.

According to Gibson, the modern bobby pin was ideated in the 1860s in England under the name Kirbigrip, then registered in California after World War I by a man named Luis Marcus. “He created it to hold in place newly fashionable bobbed haircuts, which couldn’t be pinned up with traditional longer hairpins.”

TLDR: French hair pins are bigger and wider and designed to create updos, while bobby pins are smaller and slimmer and designed to keep hairstyles (and more) in place.

How to Use French Hair Pins

French hair pins are for updos, either partial or complete. “I love taking on a classic ponytail or bun and making it a little more chic using a French pin,” says hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons, whose client Kim Kardashian favors the accessory. But how do they actually work?

“The design of the pin allows it to anchor the hair by interlocking with the gathered sections, providing a stable and elegant way to hold hairstyles like buns, chignons, or twists without the need for additional accessories,” explains de León.

That said, the accessory/tool isn’t magic and still requires some preparation and practice for successful styling. “Helping build a great foundation in the hair is very important to be able to secure and hold a pin in the hair,” says de León, citing dry shampoo and strategic teasing as an easy means of delivering texture and creating grip.

Most importantly? Remember to be patient while familiarizing yourself with the pin. “Mastering the technique might take a few tries, but once you get the hang of it, French pins can provide a secure and stylish way to hold various hairdos in place throughout the day.”

Here are three hairstyles that call for a French pin and how to execute each.

Classic Chignon

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The chignon and the French hair pin go hand in hand. “The classic effortlessly disheveled updo is so easy to create with the French pin,” says hairstylist Dimitris Giannetos. “You can play around with face-framing pieces and really make this look your own.”

1. Start by raking the hair (either using a brush or your fingers, depending on your desired level of undone) into a low or midi ponytail. 
2. Once your hair is gathered at the back, twist in one direction, wrapping it into a bun shape as you twist. 
3. It’s time to pin! Start by holding the pin curve facing away from the style, the better to insert the pin portion. “Insert the French pin vertically into the bun or twist, starting from the bottom and weaving it upwards through the gathered hair,” says de León. “Once the pin is inserted, twist it slightly to cross the prongs over each other, securing the hair in place.” Adjust the angle of your pin as needed for hold.
4. Finally, it’s time to perfect the look. “I love using a styling cream to pull back any flyaways and flatten any frizz,” says Giannetos, who recommends reaching for Dae’s Cactus Fruit 3-in-1 Styling Cream for styling any loose pieces if you’re going for a messy look. Fitzsimons finishes this sort of updo with a spritz of hairspray (like his own Andrew Fitzsimons Hard Strong Hold Hairspray) to lock the look in, with a spritz of his Prism Shine Invisible Shine Spray for glass-like shine. 

Half-Up Knot

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A half-up knot provides the appeal of a classic chignon in a more casual guise.

1. Repeat the above steps with a gathered half-up pony. 
2. Remember to loose lengths with styling cream and shine spray, and perhaps a few waves or ringlets to up the romantic ante. 

Contemporary Twist

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For an updated take on the classic updos, opt for a twist that’s a bit less done. Think slapdash—simply twist the hair up, and secure whatever organic shape occurs with an ornate pin.

1. Repeat step one, gathering lengths into your preferred, unbound pony. 
2. Wind hair freely, either embracing a neat and polished style or a quick, minimal twist. 
3. Pin in place! “French pins are looped through the twisted-up hair, starting from the middle of the twist and working the pin through so that the hair is secure,” says Giannetos. 
4. Finish with the aforementioned products.

Read the original article on InStyle.