Pork 4 ways, winter kale, parsnip. (Photos: Mia Bangkok)
One of the few restaurants to emerge from the third lockdown with their “biggest transformation yet” is Mia. The restaurant is now a “fine dining destination”, in the words of executive chef Pongcharn “Top” Russell.
The menu, their best yet, is a collaboration of both chefs, Top and pastry chef Michelle Goh. “This is the biggest misconception that everyone has. Even though Michelle is a pastry chef, she started off as a normal chef,” says Top.
Is there anything more refreshing that an ice cold oyster to awaken the palate and soul in the humid Bangkok weather? I think not. The five-course (B2,850++) or seven-course meal (B3,550++) begins with Ostra regal oyster with a chilli and red cabbage granita. Snacks include a favourite: Duxelle tartlet, Hollandaise and truffle; Chickpea puff with tuna Niçoise, which has tinned tuna from Spain, as well as fresh tuna; Crispy rice cake with beef tartare; and Foie gras with mulled wine and ginger to kick off the festive season. It’s never too early for Christmas, just ask Mimi or in this case, Mia!
Black fig, pistachio, fig leaf ice cream.
Ostra Regal oyster, red cabbage, chilli.
Cured hamachi, ricotta, tomato dashi, wasabi snow.
Pear sorbet, rosemary, rocket.
Winter menu 2021.
A staple at Mia is their Sourdough brioche served with shallot butter and onion ash, the best thing being that the loaf is left on your table for you to enjoy when you please throughout the meal. Yes, even if you’re a single diner. Continuing the cold (and welcoming) front is Hokkaido scallop with apple and dill sorbet and a yoghurt dressing. If you’re a sucker for caviar add 6g for B690++. My professional palate could also taste a hint of shiso and chef Top confirms it. “Shiso and apple is a delicious combination,” he says and I cannot argue with that.
Winter is here with Cured hamachi served with ricotta, tomato dashi jelly and wasabi snow. Hamachi is sourced once a week and is cured for around six days. “Salt, sugar and lime coat the hamachi for the first 24 hours and it is then left to sit between two kombu sheets,” says chef Top. The ricotta, made from French cream, is housemade and the whey is used for the yoghurt dressing in the scallop dish (insider pro tip!). The hamachi curing process makes the fish taste a tad bit like ham. By this point, I am in need of a hot dish and that comes in the form of a Crab chawanmushi with crustacean oil and artichoke. Another dish with an extravagant add on, one that I will never say no to, 9g of uni for B890++. Warming, soul warming and satisfying. Who knew egg custard could be this good? I’d eat this for breakfast every day, complete with the pickled onions and presentation!
Confit cod, gambas mousseline and mussels isn’t a delicate fish dish but it works! The right herb selection that pretties the dish adds to the flavours of sea. Dill, bronze fennel, samphire, red endive, chervil, chives and lemon balm — there was not one herb that was out of place. “I am obsessed with beurre blanc,” says chef Top, and it shows in the dish. Pork four ways with winter kale and parsnips is my choice for main. The sauce is a modern take on the classic peppercorn sauce but I could have done with a bit more spice and a bit bloodier sausage paste. Though I did clean the plate.
A refreshingly different palate cleanser is the Pear sorbet with rosemary and rocket. “The base of the dish has two types of rocket, wild rocket, which has a peppery note, and the subtle baby rocket,” says chef Goh. Pears are poached in a black pepper syrup and covered with a jelly of pear liqueur, which is “made by cooking down William pears with pear puree and apple juice. Rosemary sour cream foam and dehydrated rocket powder completes the dish,” adds chef Goh.
Figs are one of my favourite fruit and black figs even so. Rather precious this part of the world, chef Goh makes sure nothing much is done to them and their full flavour comes across in the dessert that is Black fig, pistachio, fig leaf ice cream. “Growing up I did not have access to premium ingredients and I really wanted to highlight them this year. I wanted to pair this with something really down to Earth, so on the bottom we have a plain perdu. Then there is a layer of jam, which is made using the fresh figs and brown butter,” says chef Goh. The vanilla creme Anglaise with dark rum is poured into the dish to make it extra rich and creamy and heavenly! The touch of Maldon sea salt on the ice cream adds that extra twist to the creamy texture.
If you think you’re done with the meal, think again. Black sesame marshmallow, a chocolate mint macaron (inspired by the classic After Eight) and a milk chocolate and hazelnut truffle truffle, which has truffle oil blended into it. A great festive finish!
Mia Restaurant, 30 Attha Kawi 1 Alley, Khlong Tan, Khlong Toei / Seven-course tasting menu for B3,550++, Five-course for B2,850++ baht, Vegetarian and vegan tasting costs B2,350++ / Lunch on weekends from 12-2pm, dinner from Tue to Sun, 5-11pm / Call 098-862-9659, visit miarestaurantbkk.com or FB.com/miarestaurantthailand.Internet Explorer Channel Network