A great walk to a great pub: the Green Dragon, Yorkshire Dales

Start Green Dragon pub Hardraw
Distance 9½ miles
Time 3-4 hours
Total ascent 490 metres
Difficulty moderate

An important truth was established some time ago when that celebrated bar room pundit Aristotle proved beyond all reasonable doubt that any decent walk undertaken in the British Isles must end at a good pub.

His formula, never disproven, goes like this: the protagonist (you) commits a fatal error (going walking despite iffy weather) that leads to a reversal (it was a circular walk) in challenging conditions (torrential rain after a bright start), that leads to the nearest temple (pub). Arriving there, shivering and nithered (Yorkshire only), you stand dripping in the doorway, wondering if such a forlorn wayfarer can possibly be welcome. But you are indeed, and before too long, fuelled by divine nectar (any real ale will do), and in front of a sacred fire (logs or peat, no electric flame stuff), you will be blessed with a mystical insight, part of which is the conviction that you’ve had a lovely day and must plan the next one.

Google map of the route

Clearly the pub is the more important element here, so let’s start with a great one: the Green Dragon in Hardraw in the Yorkshire Dales, an ancient cave-like inn. As you enter, your eyes adjust to the subdued lighting, catching the gleam of brass and glass amid all the dark woodwork. Laughter and voices are heard from distant hidden corners and then you spy the bar, like a beacon of hope and friendliness, calling you forward. However – Aristotle’s ghostly hand catches your arm – before you get settled in, let’s get things in the right order: bar room catharsis cannot be achieved without some prior effort, namely walking.

What really makes the Green Dragon stand out is one of its more unusual features: Hardraw Force, a waterfall over 30 metres high, the longest single drop in England. Sadly, the madness that is health and safety dictates that this aquanormous attraction is not actually allowed inside the building, but must be kept a short distance from the pub, up a winding path in a mysterious green grotto of its own making. On a wet day, and they do get a few, the force is an impressive sight. (After a dry spell it’s hardly worth the bother.)

In previous times the only route to the waterfall was through the public bar, which means both JMW Turner and William Wordsworth passed this way, as both visited the waterfall.

Hardcore Green Dragon buffs will say that this modest walk is a perfectly sufficient amount of exercise before the settle down inside, but there are those hiking fanatics who require a longer stretch. Thankfully the entire area is riddled with opportunities to knacker yourself. Down the valley is the town of Hawes, where you can load up with vittles such as Wensleydale cheese, sausage rolls and pies at Elijah Allen’s grocery. The town has become a pit stop for motorbikers and can be a bit hectic on a summer’s day (there is certainly no shortage of small cafes and trinket shops). The Wensleydale Creamery does tours and sells myriad flavoured varieties, none of which come close to matching the superlative deliciousness of the original.

This article comes from Saturday, the new print magazine from the Guardian which combines the best features, culture, lifestyle and travel writing in one beautiful package. Available now in the UK and ROI.

The big geographical division here comes at about 400 metres. Below that altitude is the valley, where most inhabitants live and where long processional lines of traffic are often led on impromptu tours by an imperturbable tractor. Never imagine you will get far quickly in Wensleydale: it is possible to come here looking for rural tranquillity and beauty and spend all your time staring at the rear end of the car in front, cursing motorised transport. The only sensible solution is to dump the car as soon as possible, then walk up above that 400-metre division into a very different world, a place of tussock grass, sheep, grumbling grouse and massive panoramic vistas.

From Hawes, the quickest route into this magical upper realm is to take the Pennine Way south up the long, slow ridge via Ten End to Dodd Fell, which will bring some impressive views. Continue southwards, descending to the Roman road which will turn you east, up on to Wether Fell, from where it is a short descent back to Hawes.

Even better, however, is to start from the Green Dragon itself. Give it a good long stare, as entry to this fine temple of beer is the end goal of your walk. Now head west across the bridge and soon you will spot the Pennine Way sign. From here, an old green drovers’ path leads up above the tree line, where the path becomes a well-laid stone slab pavement heading north up the flank of Great Shunner Fell. The panoramas open up as you climb. You will reach the summit after around five miles (although Black Hill Moss at halfway would make an early finish). At 716 metres, Great Shunner is not to be underestimated: there isn’t a day in summer when gloves and a warm hat might not be welcome up here, but there is a drystone windbreak with benches. The vistas of great Yorkshire peaks such as Ingleborough and Great Whernside – and High Seat in the Lake District – are superb.

The route back depends on the weather and stamina: hardcore hikers will want to loop back to either west or east. If there’s a hoolie blowing, I recommend a safe return by the way you came and quickly into the Green Dragon. Ignore the sign at the door sending hippies around the back: it’s a typical bit of eccentricity. In fact, everything here is idiosyncratic: new landlords Ann Rennoldson and Chris Robinson were regular visitors before taking the place on, so they know.

“It’s been a steep learning curve,” says Ann, who was a teacher in Leeds until recently, “but we are loving it.” One particular peculiarity is that musicians can turn up at any moment and start “ticking”, knocking out a tune that someone else will join in. Before too long the bar is rocking. There are also regular organised music weekends to look out for. Find walk notes at mudandroutes.com

The pub

Taproom aficionados love the Green Dragon’s cosy nooks and corners with their ancient settles and spindle-back chairs: the warren of rooms dates back seven centuries in places. You are never far from a decent warm fire, or the beer pumps: Butter Tubs bitter (from Askrigg), Timothy Taylor’s Landlord (from Keighley) and Semer Water pale ale (by Wensleydale Brewery in nearby Leyburn) are regular offerings at this free house. Fish and chips can be had and curries are another speciality, but Yorkshire pudding is a notable absentee from the menu. (Connoisseurs are directed south to the Crooked Billet in Saxton, whose Yorkshire Pudding Challenge promises three courses all containing the paradisaical batter.)

The rooms

The Green Dragon has en suite rooms (from £100 B&B) close to the pub or a little further away for countryside views. There are also bunk rooms that sleep between four and eight (from £30pp). Chris and Ann have plans for some rejuvenation, but the accommodation is comfortable, if a little old-fashioned, with quilted bedspreads and muted colour schemes. This will never be a swanky boutique experience: it’s all about the craic and the atmosphere in a friendly, ancient hostelry.
greendragonhardraw.com

Internet Explorer Channel Network
News Related

OTHER NEWS

OCTA: NCR COVID-19 reproduction rate down to 0.58

© REUTERS/Lisa Marie David People huddle and share a meal while visiting an amusement park in Pasay City on October 16, 2021 as the National Capital Region loosens COVID-19 restrictions ... Read more »

93.8% populasi dewasa lengkap divaksin

© Provided by Free Malaysia Today PICK dilancarkan pada 24 Februari lalu bagi memberikan vaksinasi untuk membendung pandemik Covid-19 di seluruh negara. KUALA LUMPUR: Negara kini mencatat 93.8% populasi dewasa ... Read more »

US: 3 dead after knife attack on Arkansas officer

US: 3 dead after knife attack on Arkansas officer Police in Arkansas said Sunday that three people were dead after an incident in which an officer fired his weapon while ... Read more »

Horoscope Today, October 18, 2021: See your daily astrology prediction for zodiac sign Cancer, Libra, Pisces

Cancer, Leo and Aquarius ascendant sign people are advised to be cautious on the health front and take appropriate care of themselves. Read your daily predictions to know the possibilities ... Read more »

Kerala rain: Death toll rises to 24, yellow alert in 11 districts | 10 points

© Provided by Hindustan Times NDRF personnel and other teams have been carrying out search and rescue operations at flood-affected area in Kottayam. (ANI Photo) At least 24 people have ... Read more »

Lakhimpur Kheri violence: SKM to hold nationwide rail-roko agitation today demanding MoS Ajay Mishra's resignation

© Provided by DNA Demanding the removal of Ajay Mishra ‘Teni’, the Union Minister of State (MoS) for Home Affairs, from the Union Cabinet over the Lakhimpur Kheri incident, the ... Read more »

University lecturers threaten strike over pay

© Provided by Daily Mail MailOnline logo  Universities have ‘three weeks to save term’, lecturers are warning as they threaten to strike in a fresh blow to long-suffering students. The ... Read more »

Marxists try to take Federal Reserve as Biden weighs whether to reappoint Powell: Devine

President Joe Biden delivers remarks at the dedication of the Dodd Center for Human Rights at the University of Connecticut in Storrs, Connecticut, October 15, 2021. REUTERS/Leah Millis President Biden ... Read more »

Terengganu beri keutamaan pemohon bantuan sudah divaksin

© Provided by Sinar Harian KUALA TERENGGANU – Kerajaan negeri Terengganu mengambil keputusan untuk memberi keutamaan kepada permohonan bantuan daripada individu yang sudah menerima vaksin Covid-19. Exco Kebajikan, Pembangunan Wanita, ... Read more »

The dark web is rising

© Provided by The Edge KUALA LUMPUR (Oct 18): Cybercriminals have been having a field day since the start of the pandemic as private and public institutions scrambled to cope ... Read more »

From oil to renewables, winds of change blow on Scottish islands

© ADRIAN DENNIS As Shetland turns to renewable energy, wind turbines are part of the island’s new priorities In the far north of the United Kingdom, where the wind blows ... Read more »

Fitch revises upward Singapore's growth forecast to 6.3%

© Provided by Singapore Business Review Fitch Solutions has revised its growth forecast for Singapore to 6.3% from 6.1%, following the expansion of GDP by 6.5% year-on-year (YoY) seasonally adjusted ... Read more »

China property shares firm after PBOC says Evergrande woes manageable

© Reuters/Tyrone Siu China Evergrande Centre is seen in Hong Kong HONG KONG (Reuters) – Shares of Chinese property developers climbed on Monday after China’s central bank calmed markets by ... Read more »

PUBG Mobile Global Championship 2021 will feature 40 teams competing for $6 million

© Provided by Dot Esports The PUBG Mobile Global Championship (PMGC) 2021 will feature 40 teams from around the globe competing for the title of world champions and a share ... Read more »

Cleo, 4, went missing from her family's tent in the early morning. It's been more than 48 hours.

It’s been two days since Ellie Smith last saw her four-year-old daughter. © Getty Images Cleo, 4, went missing from her family’s tent in the early morning. It’s been more ... Read more »

Corruption at the top? Gladys Berejiklian faces her ICAC moment of truth

Did former NSW premier Gladys Berejiklian facilitate the potential misuse of $35 million of public money to help the electoral prospects of former boyfriend Daryl Maguire? And if so, was ... Read more »

Goldman Sachs gets regulator nod for full ownership of China securities JV

(Reuters) – Goldman Sachs said on Sunday it received an approval from China’s securities regulator to take full control of its mainland securities business. © Reuters/David Gray The logo of ... Read more »

Jealous husband ‘choked wife to death' and ‘faked search to rule himself out as suspect'

A jealous husband choked his wife to death and set up a false search for her in a bid to rule himself out as a suspect, it is reported. © ... Read more »

Malaysian in Guantanamo terror trial says translator was biased

© Provided by Free Malaysia Today Nazir Lep’s counsel Brian Bouffard said the US government had failed to secure a competent Malay translator. PETALING JAYA: A Malaysian facing a terrorism ... Read more »

Tennis-Britain's Norrie tops Basilashvili to win Indian Wells title

Tennis: BNP Paribas Open-Day 13 (Reuters) – Cameron Norrie battled back to defeat Nikoloz Basilashvili 3-6 6-4 6-1 in the Indian Wells final on Sunday and become the first British ... Read more »

Melbourne Cup winner Gai Waterhouse hits out at jumps racing move, joins Oakbank Racing Club

Decorated horse trainer Gai Waterhouse has lashed critics of jumps racing as she pushes to overturn a decision to scrap the controversial practice in South Australia, insisting that horses “love to do ... Read more »

Restrictions remain in Tasmania despite lockdown exit this evening

Tasmania’s lockdown for the 12 LGAs in the state’s south will end at 6pm tonight, Premier Peter Gutwein has announced. Mask wearing will still be mandatory both indoors and outdoors ... Read more »

Queensland police officer Robert Eickenloff in court after allegedly helping daughter in COVID-19 border breach

A south-east Queensland police officer accused of helping his daughter breach the state’s COVID-19 border restrictions has appeared in court. Senior Constable Robert William Eickenloff was charged with misconduct in public ... Read more »

PH up in Peddling Peril Index list

The Philippines has improved its ranking the the latest edition of the Peddling Peril Index (PPI), the Trade department said on Sunday, moving up to 49th out of 200 countries ... Read more »

Cameron Norrie seals British No 1 ranking with biggest title of his career at Indian Wells

Cameron Norrie won the biggest title of his career in Indian Wells. The world No 26 came from a set and a break down to defeat Nikoloz Basilashvili 3-6 6-4 ... Read more »

The next step down? Stage is multiply set for a weaker rupee

© Provided by The Financial Express And, given RBI’s gigantic war chest—over $575 billion of foreign currency assets, plus a further $50 billion or so of forward purchases—it should be ... Read more »

$54.5m for Vic business outdoor trading

© Erik Anderson/AAP PHOTOS Melbourne’s pubs can open for 20 fully vaccinated customers indoors, and 50 outdoors, from Friday. Businesses and councils can apply for a share in a $54.5 ... Read more »

States to end FY22 on a slightly better note

© Provided by The Financial Express As of now, the capex trends are nothing to write home about and one would need to see a smart pick up in the ... Read more »

Online fraud: Recover stolen money within 10 days - Here's how

© Provided by DNA During lockdown, instances of cybercrime such as online frauds have significantly risen. Over 2.7 crore adults have been targets of identity theft in the last year ... Read more »

ESG Investing: Relook ESG measuring for a more balanced approach

© Provided by The Financial Express The vast majority of economic activity undertaken by humans usually ends up causing some damage to the environment. By Rameesh Kailasam The vast majority ... Read more »

One dead, seven injured in second shooting at Louisiana university in a week

(Reuters) – One person died and seven others were injured in a shooting at Grambling State University in Louisiana early on Sunday, the second such deadly incident on campus in ... Read more »

Asma Khan's secret ingredient: nutmeg

Nutmeg is not something we historically had in India, it came with the spice trade. It’s a warming, winter spice. Winter is India’s family wedding season. It’s no longer hot, ... Read more »

U.S. tells Supreme Court Guantanamo detainee can give limited testimony

FILE PHOTO: The U.S. flag flies at the U.S. naval base in Guantanamo Bay, Cuba By Kanishka Singh (Reuters) – The administration of U.S. President Joe Biden informed the Supreme ... Read more »

Schiff says holding Bannon in criminal contempt 'a way of getting people's attention'

Rep. Adam Schiff (D-Calif.) on Sunday said holding ex-Trump White House strategist Steve Bannon in criminal contempt would be “a way of getting people’s attention,” as the select committee probing ... Read more »

Sen. Joe Manchin is demanding Biden's child tax credit come with a work requirement and income cap around $60,000, report says

© AP Photo/Andrew Harnik Sen. Joe Manchin, D-W.Va., speaks at a news conference outside of his office on Capitol Hill in Washington, Wednesday, Oct. 6, 2021. AP Photo/Andrew Harnik Sen. ... Read more »

Ethnic pay gap exists in third-level education, study shows

An ethnic pay gap in Irish higher education has been exposed in a ground-breaking study. Staff from ethnic minorities are more likely to be on temporary contracts and to be ... Read more »

Covid survivor: ‘I was so anti-immune compromised that I am sure it was the vaccine that saved my life'

A man (41) who was vaccinated against Covid-19 – but still ended up in ICU for six days fighting the virus – says he believes the vaccine saved his life. ... Read more »

‘There are issues across the board getting stocks of toys in'

Irish shops are working overtime to ensure as much is on offer to consumers as possible ahead of the festive season. Gareth Staunton, of Nimble Fingers toyshop, in Stillorgan, south ... Read more »

Hospitals fear surge in patients if Covid restrictions are eased

Hospitals are bracing for a spike in people being hospitalised with Covid-19 as the National Public Health Emergency Team (Nphet) meets today to discuss the easing of restrictions. The increasing ... Read more »

Principals warn that whole classes could be sent home over substitutes shortage

Primary schools will be forced to send classes home if difficulties finding substitute cover are not resolved quickly, a principals’ leader has warned. Páiric Clerkin, the CEO of the Irish Primary ... Read more »